Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am looking at ordering a 5x10 cargo trailer. My main reason for a trailer is to extend my camping season. My favorite area to camp is West Texas and to camp there in the summer or even late spring or early fall I need a/c. I am considering building a false wall inside the trailer to mount the a/c. As of now the area behind the false wall would be used to store camping gear. Inside would be either a bed or futon, a counter for toaster oven and coffee maker, and a few cabinets. I would wire it for 110 for when I'm in a state park and 12 volts for when I'm not. (Obviously I would not use the toaster oven or coffee maker on 12 volts). My wife might go with me a few times, but mostly it would be me and a large dog or 2.

I am looking at a 5x10 so that it is no wider than my Jeep and so I can fit in my 2 and a half car garage along with 2 vehicles. I will have to order it with side vents instead of a roof vent to keep the height below my garage door opening.

My tow vehicle is a 2 dr. 2011 Jeep Wrangler with automatic transmission.

So should I order it with brakes or do I not need them?

Thanks in advance.

Absolutely positively! It is always better to have them and not need them than to need them and not have them!

First time you have to stop fast, you will be glad you got em. They saved our life many times.

I have had trailers with and without brakes
the ones with brakes did not "push" the tow vehicle when stopping
whereas the ones without brakes did push the tow.
If you think about it a trailer heavy enought to feel while being towed
needs it's own brakes to stop it in other words
the trailer brakes is what stops the trailer
the tow's brakes is what stops the tow.
so yes get the brakes and a good controller.

pete

Two thumbs up for brakes.

I really liked them for towing my 10' Scotty and they came standard on my 7 x 12 cargo trailer.

Barb

Hands down, get Brakes.

In the Real World, emergency stopping situations are not straight line linear. THAT Deer decides to wait Roadside and THEN jump out in front of you on a curve, of course. Physics 101 tells us the Trailer now REALLY has a mind/direction of it's own as to where to go. Being able to stop the Trailer 'itself' is important in these scenarios, as well as in straight line stopping scenarios.

I head out our long Dirt/Gravel Driveway and then hit the Brakes pretty hard while going slow. I adjust my Brake Controller power 'up' to lock up the Trailer Wheels. Then, I back off that digital setting just a 'smidge'. Now, I know I've got maximum Braking power adjusted correctly for the Trailer depending on what I'm hauling that Trip. Water, Chairs, Tool Boxes, etc., all add up and vary the load.

I put the suggested 30 Amp Circuit Breaker straight off my TV Battery in the Brake Controller Power Line. I also ran the suggested separate Ground Wire for this Circuit alone back from my 7 Pin Bargman Trailer Connector to the Battery. That is the return path for Brake current, and you don't want to have any doubts about the integrity of it. That's me being 'over the top', but it made sense to do it. With this attention to detail, I don't have to worry about Mr. Murphy and his Law getting me on a downhill Grade, etc.. Others ground this Circuit to the rear Chassis of their TV and make out just fine.

Also, having Trailer Brakes lets you load up your CT 'however', and you don't have to give the Trailer load a second thought stopping- and safety-wise.

I stuff loose Fiberglass Insulation in my Trailer Connector on the Bumper to help keep out Road dirt. We use Magnesium Chloride on the Roads here in Winter, and it's very corrosive stuff.

I've got an all aluminum 6X10 vee-nose and ended up installing brakes on the axle later.....trailers will stop "ok" on dry pavement without brakes, but my concern was loaded with the harley and camping equipment, it's not gonna stop well on wet roads...I pull mine with a 2011 chevy colorado......my retro kit was under $ 300.00....gives good peace of mind in panic situations......

As others have said, I am also in agreement with electric brakes on a CT no matter how light it is. It will only takes one panic stop to show you how effective trailer brakes are. As for brake controllers, the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 sets the standard when compared to other controllers.

Thanks for all the words of wisdom and experience. I definitely don't want to have to go back later and replace the axle to get brakes that I could have gotten in the beginning.
Brakes it is. Also thanks for the recommendations on the controller.

Did someone say "brakes"?

Cheers,

Gus

New single axle trailers here in BC have have a legal rating of 3,000 lbs…if you add the brakes at a later date it still has only a 3,000 lb legal rating even though it is a standard 3,500 lb alxe.
By paying the extra $200 to $250 to have the factory install the brakes, you get a leagal 3,500 lb trailer and worth every penny if you load it up with a bike or ATV.

BC Cargo wrote:New single axle trailers here in BC have have a legal rating of 3,000 lbs…if you add the brakes at a later date it still has only a 3,000 lb legal rating even though it is a standard 3,500 lb alxe.
By paying the extra $200 to $250 to have the factory install the brakes, you get a leagal 3,500 lb trailer and worth every penny if you load it up with a bike or ATV.

That is interesting. I checked my CT transfer papers from the dealer and the GVWR for the CT is listed at 2980 lbs. Also the insurance papers also list the same 2980 GVWR. Not that I ever expect to exceed the current 2980 lb GVWR, but next time I renew the CT insurance, is there something I need to show in terms of proof that the CT was factory ordered with brakes?