Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

This is for the people with a factory installed side door. At what distance are your hinges from the top and bottom of the door? The reason I am asking is that I am building my own side and want to make sure my bracing is in the right spots. The door construction is based on the way the back doors are built from the factory. Basically 1" square tubing and 1-1/2" angle for the flange. I have already removed the skin where the door is going to be located, removed the factory studs (24" on center), and built the new door frame out of 1" x 2" rectangular tubing. Thanks everyone for all of creativity, and giving the wife and I inspiration to tackle our own build.

Just measured mine. 13" down from the top to the middle of a 2" hinge strap and 13" up to the middle of the 2" strap at the bottom. Hope this helps.

Dan

Thanks Dan! Time to get to work building the door.

I miss being young and able good luck on your door.

pete

Thanks Pete. Made a little progress on the door but ended up getting side tracked. Got the outer frame for the door done. Need to find the right hinges and door latch then I can finish it up.I did end up adding more support to the frame. With the floor supports at 24" on center (I use that term very loosely) and the cross supports offset to the drivers side, I wanted to make sure I had a nice solid feel under the passenger side floor. Probably overkill but hey, I have the steel and have plenty of time.

Just a few updates. I got my side door built and functioning.

Very professional - nice job!

We've also gotten a good start on the interior.



You can see the rest in my gallery. Next is to get the cabinets built and finish off the wiring.

jimbo5971, Howdy;

X2 on the pro looking job on the door ,
I'm truly interested in your interior, how are you attaching the boards
to the plywood? Are they tongue-an-groove? What did you use? Some of the
flooring stuff?

hank

Hank,

Thanks for the compliments. The interior is just the cheap tongue and groove pine interior wall planking from Menards. After I insulated, I screwed sheets of cheap paneling to the studs. From there I used liquid nails and countersunk screws to secure it to the paneling. To cover the screw heads I am using a product called fastcap peel and stick cover caps in pine that are stained to match the planking http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/fastcap-peel-and-stick-cover-caps.asp

jimbo5971,

I like it - the panel strip wall. This is another good item for me to store away for my project. Let me ask you; do you think using the construction adhesive and small trim nails would also work (nails instead of screws and caps). Since you are using an adhesive, I am guessing that the screws do not offer one the ability to disassemble the walls without just ripping things out.

Bob

Bob,

I didn't want to use nails for two reasons. 1. There isn't really much for the nails to bite to as it is only 1/8" paneling behind the planks and 2. I was concerned that being a trailer the nails would just work themselves out during travel. Where I am at, we have less than stellar roads.

Thank you. I trust you used the screws where the uprights were?

jimbo5971, Howdy;

Thanks for the information.

hank