Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm still flipping a quarter over using a thru the wall removable window unit or a roof mount. Those that have installed a window unit, how much larger did you cut your hole in the wall than the unit and how did you seal it off? If I go that route, I really expect it to last many years because it will not get that much use. But I would really like the hole to not be too big. But the sizes vary so much, that finding a size direct replacement will be slim to none.

Thanks,
Earnest

check out Barb's install http://cttraveltrailer.blogspot.com/201%20...%20alled.html

it's thru the side but hole is covered by a cargo door and ac slides in and out

I have seen some newer travel trailers that have the AC mounted in some cabinets over a counter only about 2 inchs sticks out

one trick I'm fileing away

Pete is always nice mentioning my window ac set up. It is one of the best features of my ct in that I ordered a 18h x 24w cargo door that was installed at a counter height. I just slipped in a HD base cabinet with a top and slider and it works! The biggest reason was to install it at counter or window height because at home all my window units work very well.

In a previous trailer I had an ac mounted low, below the seating area. Same thing on a slider out through a cargo door. With cold air dropping I needed to have a fan to blow it back up. So with the ct I knew I wanted to go in another direction.

I'm using a 6500btu ac and I have an extra 2 inches in height and about 3-4 inches in width. Just in case I switch out to another make/model.

The counter with a slide out has consistently worked great on all my warm summer trips. It slides in and is secured for travel.

In the spring and fall the ac gets stored in the garage and I use a heater to keep the ct warm on those cold days/nights.
Barb

The size of the hole depends on a couple of things:

- How much space you need for sliders (if you use them)
- The size of the cargo door you're using (assuming you aren't making your own).





The cargo door can also provide access for other things as well. I have a CATV connection behind mine. I made mine a snug fit around the A/C; I might have trouble replacing it with another if it fails. I don't use it much so I'm hoping it lasts as long as the trailer. I didn't bother sealing around the A/C and the cargo door seals fine for transit.

Bruce

I am planning on installing using a slider rack for it to be on with a cargo door for a rain cover. Sealing the inside portion is not a problem. In West Texas we get some good hard blowing rain that the door will not stop. In my homes I always drilled a drain hole at the bottom of the window window frame so any rain water can drain out instead of in. I don't see this being an option on these cargo door frames to keep a good seal when the door is closed. Any ideas?

Earnest

I dunno, I haven't have any trouble with the cargo doors leaking...

Bruce

Thanks. I'll figure something out. If I go that route I will have to make some kind of external seal to keep the rain out of the door flange. I've never had a problem with a cargo door leaking either. In this case the door is not closed and a blowing rain can get in the open flange area. If the flange has an external lip, it will trap water and it will seep past the internal AC seal. This was a big problem I had with these units. I resolved it by drilling a hole in the lower external window frames so the rain could drain out. I can't see being able to do that on a cargo door flange without having an adverse effect on the door being able to seal good when closed. Or am I just being paranoid and this is a non-issue with a cargo flange & door? Which I will admit is entirely possible.

Earnest

I would install the cargo door use your AC unit and when it rains see if it leaks.
maybe one of those stick on car or truck rain shields like these http://www.carid.com/wind-deflectors.html?utm_source=microsoft&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=car%20rain%20guards&utm_campaign=23
just a thought
pete

Those installations with the air conditioner mounted on drawer slides, where the A/C retreats inside for travel and a weather sealed door protects the trailers inside from water, are elegant! Hats off for innovative genius.

I went with a window shaker too. Cheap to buy and easy to install, and they pack a lot of cooling in a small package.

This installation, a 5500 BTU window shaker in a 6 x 10 cargo trailer, rests in two angle iron frames.
I riveted the A/C body to the inner frame first, and screwed that frame to the trailers inside plywood paneling to locate the air conditioner and make it level side to side. (It has a 1/4" in 12 tilt to the outside, for condensation drainage.)
Then the outside frame, with the weather seal tape in it, was slipped over the A/C/ body on the outside and supported so that when bolted into place the units weight would be born by that frame. The fastener locations were marked and rivet holes and insert holes were drilled and the inserts installed, then the outside frame was put back on and permanently fastened to the trailer. The units main weight centers over the spot where it passes through the trailer wall and the outside frame is bolted to two of the inside the wall vertical supports, using 1/4" NC threaded inserts and that size phillips pan head screws. Only one vertical brace needed to be cut and that one is broken by the window above already, and the A/C frames reconnect it.
I can grab the outside of the A/C and shake the heck out of the whole trailer by manhandling the air conditioner and nothing budges, it ain't going nowhere.

The air conditioner protrudes just 7 1/4" out past the wall, compared to 11 1/2" for the fender and 4 1/2" protrusion for the awning. All of the outer condensor louvers are outside, and that part of the A/C is made to be tolerant of weather.
The outer frame has sticky side foam strip tape all around the inside and it doesn't leak, especially being sideways to the road wind the way it is.

I didn't want the A/C mounted in the front wall, getting directly beaten on by rain when I traveled. The hole I cut in the wall is just half an inch bigger on average than the A/C itself. My shore power plug went right beside it, to be handy. It cools that little trailer down very well.
My $500.00 Champion 2000 watt inverter powers it just fine at its first RPM step, no less (it wouldn't have powered any of the available roof top A/C's on the market at all, even a Polar Cub) and it is very quiet at 53 decibels.