Help w/ 12volt wiring (converters/inverters..etc)

[Jason1955]

I have a race car hauler that I finished off living quarters in the front. I have a 4000watt generator that I run during the day at the races to power my 110v stuff but I'm looking into setting it up where I can run off 12 volt at night with the use of inverter. I have one 12 volt car battery up front that powers my trailer winch and interior trailer lights but I have to remember to hook my standard battery charger to it every so often to charge it. I'm thinking I need a converter that will do this but I have no idea if I need a 20amp or 45 amp or 55 amp? I also just picked up a 750w inverter off ebay cheap that I would like to use to just power a 13" tv/antenna box or a radio and maybe a small small to run at night for noise. I know that once it turns hot that I'll just have to run the generator at night to run the a/c but for those early spring nights it's not needed and neither is the heat.

Can anyone offer me any ideas on what to use and how to hook it up? The only thing I have that is 12 volts is my interior lights and outdoor porch type lights.

Here is the link to my build:
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=54193

Thanks,
Jason

[Jason1955]

BTW....right now I have the battery up front in the cabinet but thinking that might not be such a good idea.....do most of you guys mount them outside on the tongue?

[Pyrofish]

IIRC this is the converter I'm using. It has 45 Amp capability, which is over kill in my situation.
http://www.wfcoelectronics.com/UI/Power-Centers-WF-8945ANP.aspx?ptype=3&pid=10

The nice thing about it is the floating 3 stage battery charger and the 12v distribution panel. As long as it has 110 coming in, it's topping off the battery. This may be way overkill for you since you've already wired your 110. This panel has lugs for 5 110v breakers IIRC. It has a bunch of 12v fuse connections as well. Just the battery charger, inlet breaker, and 12v fused distribution are Pretty handy to have in this one unit. It can be had for about $100 on eBay too.

My battery has been inside for the last year until I finish my tongue mount for it. Eventually though, it will be external.

[Jason1955]

Thanks Pyrofish!!

This looks like exactly what I need! As far as my 110 stuff goes I don't have it on a seperate panel box anyway....I'm relying on the breakers from the generator but this will allow me to hook a standard 30amp rv cord to this box and run it to my generator or pole at the camp grounds......correct? i can then leave one pole on the converter panel to run my 110v receptacles? Am I on the right track with my thinking on this?

Thanks,
Jason

[Pyrofish]

With this kind of panel, you'll plug in your generator or shore power to the panel, probably through an exterior connection. That power comes into the main breaker, which feeds the 110v side of the panel, and the 12v converter/charger. The 12v Converter/charger then feeds the 12v fuse panel, AND charges the battery. The fuse panel then feeds your 12v lights/fans/what-have-you. If your 110v is not hot, then the converter shuts down, and the battery is directly feeding the 12v fuse panel and your devices.

It's pretty simple to set up. Just hot/ground/common on the 110v side, hot goes directly into a main breaker (that you supply). I stuck a 30 amp in mine. Then bring your battery cables in to the 12v side and put them on the labeled lugs. Ground the panel to the frame, done.

The only thing left to wire after that is your power headed out to your devices. The charger/converter/fuse-panel/breakers just take care of themselves.

The 110v side has room for 5 breakers, 3 if you go with the smaller panel. Feeding the 110v side with an inverter would be pretty inefficient, if that's what you're talking about. You'd need a decent battery bank, and some of the power coming in would be bled off back into the batteries. I planned mine to be mostly 12v. Direct replacement LED arrays to replace the incandescent bulbs, and a 12v Fantastic Fan. I keep meaning to add 12v receptacles for phone charging, but haven't gotten there yet. I'll also have a 12v going to a propane water heater and pump... one of these days :-)

[Jason1955]

Thanks!!

Did you find that the breakers for the panel can be bought from local box stores like Lowes or does it take a special type of breaker?

To clear up the inverter.......I only got the inverter to use only if I had the generator shut off or had no shore power so I could run my TV or radio.

[Shadow Catcher]

WFCO has a less than sterling reputation, do a search on WFCO problems and you will see. Do your self a favor and buy a Progressive Dynamics converter https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv_products.html we have one of the PD4000 power centers. The second recommendation is buy a true deep cycle battery
home work http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm and http://www.batteryfaq.org/
Yes you do want it outside and or vented out side as the outgas hydrogen.

[Pyrofish]

The breakers are standard. CUtler hammer, Thomas Betts, ITE/Siemens, Square D, and Murray numbers all apply according to the instructions.

I heard there were problems with some of the older WFCO's. When I bought mine, it was because someone in the electrical section had recommended it. I haven't had any problems with it, but I've only had it for 2 years. Just make sure what ever converter you get has a decent charger. Looks like the Progressive Might-mini has the same description as the WFCO on that front. Might be worth the extra $50, might not. I will say, my WFCO was a bit flimsy. The circuit board moved around some that way it came. I fixed that, but if you didn't, it might cause troubles. Hopefully, fingers crossed, I don't have any problems with mine.

In any case, a Breaker/Converter/Charger/Distribution panel, of some manufacturer, is the way to go. Very slick stuff.

Definitely get a decent Deep Cycle if you plan to run the 12v or run an inverter. If you have a Batteries Plus near you, they can help for a decent price too.

[GuitarPhotog]

+1 on the recommendation of PD over WFCO. My WFCO 8725 failed after about a year and a half. Was still under warranty, and works OK after repair but.....

<Chas>

[Pyrofish]

See, that's what I read about the 8700 series, they had problems. The newer 8900 series WFCO, what I bought, was supposed to be better. I guess I'll be able to tell you in a few more years

[8ball_99]

Exactly what Pyrofish said. I will say though since it sounds like you will be charging your battery mainly from a generator? You might want to get a decent sized converter.. The rated amperage is max output.. So say you run your battery low the night before. You get up head out stay gone most of the time come back to the trailer and crank the generator.. Same time your probably running other stuff. If you get a small converter you all have that 20 amps for everything thats 12v.. So say you do have a few lights on, radio, roof vent, what ever. That means your battery will charge very slow which means you will need to run the generator longer just to recharge.. You kinda of need to figure out round about how much 12v you will have and get a converter large enough to not only power that stuff but still be able to charge the battery..