Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

After lurking, picking people's brains, and countless drawings for floor plans, I finally pulled the trigger.......a CargoCraft 7x16 (+2' V) with 6'6" ceiling. ....

Nice CT! Have fun with your build.

Earnest

1" tubular steel wall supports allowed for 1" insulation

1/2" plywood between roof and 1" tubular steel supports provided a space for insulation (only 18" wide to allow for roof slope)

Spacing filled with insulation......the roof has 1-1/2" on the edges and 2" in the middle. The walls have 1" insulation....

I see you have rear stabilizer jacks, they really make the trailer rock solid when your inside.

Luan plywood attached to furring strips (ceiling) with Liquid nails and brads (air-nailer).


3 coats of white semi-gloss (molding towards front not present due to cabinets going in)

jwhite wrote:I see you have rear stabilizer jacks, they really make the trailer rock solid when your inside.

You are so right. Even with my dad and I working/walking in the back, the trailer didn't move........

wtcreaux wrote:

jwhite wrote:I see you have rear stabilizer jacks, they really make the trailer rock solid when your inside.

You are so right. Even with my dad and I working/walking in the back, the trailer didn't move........

My understanding was that the jacks were a safety feature for an unhitched trailer--too much weight in the back and the front is going UP! Then when everything falls out the back door, back DOWN it comes! BANG!

I would have never thought to get them but the sales person reccomended them and they were on 50.00 extra so I had them put on,when I went to pick up the trailer we were walking around inside and I thought wow this is really shakey walking around.
After I got home I figured out that you let the front down as far as it will go then put the rear jacks down and then crank the front back up and it's rock solid = doesn't shake at all.
I guess if you can't have a trailer built you can get those sizzor jacks for a car at a junk yard but that would be a real pain to use every time.

Hardboard applied to walls. These are able to be wiped with 10% bleach and gave a nice color. Used Liquid Nails (get the LARGE), requiring 1.5 tubes per panel. The "furring strips" are actually plywood strips screwed into the gaps between panels to hold panel while adhesive dries......





Pops holding up the hardboard....BEST PART OF THE PROJECT (spending time with Pops)




The framing is in the front of the trailer.......the left enclosed side will be the electrical closet.......the right side is in the bathroom....




Just another view of the electrical closet and bathroom (where waterless toilet will fit)

Progressive PD4000 Power Control Center





Overhead cabinets with conduit carrying wire for rooftop AC




Aluminum angle used for molding

Used painter's tape along the bottom wall






Rust-oleum Garage floor epoxy (water-based)




learning how to sprinkle flakes




results

Used E-track along the edges for a bed and a shorter section higher for a bunk




Installed LED track lighting on the ceiling





The light in the center is coming through a rooftop vent (on a cloudy day)





The LED light is on the left (of the picture)

Marine waterless toilet......




The Chief engineer (Pops) and the CFO discussing the results......she had been VERY leery of what I was envisioning but Im slowly winning her to the dark side



cabinets