Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I found this one when parts hunting and got side tracked. It is still too expensive for me but I thought someone might be interested in it. This one mounts inside like regular RV ones do and exhaust externally. It is 12.5"x12.5"x15.5".

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-water-heaters/rv-tankless-water-heater.htm

http://greenrvproducts.com/girard-tankless-rv-water-heater/

I have seen these advertised and I've seen the videos for them. They do not cost much more than a regular water heater BUT, they are propane ONLY.

roadinspector wrote:I found this one when parts hunting and got side tracked. It is still too expensive for me but I thought someone might be interested in it. This one mounts inside like regular RV ones do and exhaust externally. It is 12.5"x12.5"x15.5".

We looked at putting in a water heater....the thing is with 8 gallon fresh tanks we are frugal enough not to need it. We can go 2 to 3 days on 8 gallons (assuming showers are available) and heating water for cleaning its easy, just wipe out the biggest thing we are going to wash, then heat the water in it or just to throw a kettle on.

When we planned ours a few years ago, I asked about hot water and was told the same thing... I still thought this wild be a necessity and spent a hundred bucks on a heater I have yet to take with me and use it. I do use it to wash the camper when I get home. Hot water helps A LOT when removing bugs...but in the field, it's just extra weight.

The paradigm of hot water comes from the big RVs...homes on wheels. Some of those guys have dish washers and washing machines on board....or my favorite...central vacuums TDs mop their floors with a paper towel, was dishes in a tiny sink, and cook on a single (or maybe a double) burner, or better on an open fire. TD camping is much more akin to tent camping.

I know you aren't necessarily advocating for this item. If I were building something like a Scotty I might put it in....but for a teardrop builder you will be better off using the money for the ever rising camp site fees.

A Plus MM,
From what I've been able to read from people that have used on demand systems, the electric units do not work as good as propane units.

The no electric is a negative for us, if you are in a campground with electric why pay to use propane.

Since everywhere that we will be camping will more than likely have electric, I decide to go with an electric point of use tankless hot water heater. Here is the link.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203316189? ... =203316189

I have not used it yet but it said that it would produce 140 degree water at a .5 gallon a minute flow rate. Sine we will use this for washing dishes or hands and face, this should be sufficient. With the issues of space, the size of this water heater cant be beat.

Be careful wiring that up. Be sure to use wire of adequate gauge to handle the load. That's a 3,000 Watt heater, so it draws just less than 30A. You'll need a 30A connection at the RV park, and will need 30A-rated connectors and cord.

<Chas>

We should be OK for the 30 amp at the RV parks as most parks where we camp are 30 amps. The unit itself comes with a pigtail that will be wired directly into the electrical box with its own dedicated 30 amp breaker. The breaker itself acts as the on / off switch.

I think the point here is if this unit pulls 30 amps, and you have a 30 amp hookup, then you can run the water heater and nothing else at the same time. No A/C, converter, fridge, nothing. As long as you understand that you'll be good.

You guys need to learn electric better

It uses 3500 watts max - when heating water to 140 deg MAX .5 GPM

Since most water is around 50 deg ......
If you only set heater to 100 deg temp then you would use 1600 watt at .5 GPM

at the min flow rate of .25 GPM it would use 800-900 watt....
You could also heat water from 50 to 100 and then reheat from 100-140 deg
It would take 2x longer ..... But would work with a small 1600 watt generator

So CRANK HER UP AND TELL ME IF IM WRONG ????

PS BREAKERS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO BE USED AS A ON / OFF SWITCH - WHEN UNDER LOAD

You could also heat water from 50 to 100 and then reheat from 100-140 deg

That'll be a little tough to do with a tankless heater

When the manufacturer says it draws 30 Amps, that's what you have to design around. You can't count on input water being warmer, etc. as design parameters because the exception will get you in trouble.

But that 1600 Watt generator won't even have a connector rated to run this thing. I think that recommendation is dangerous and could easily kill the generator.

<Chas>

I don't think that electric tankless heaters stage the heat, I think they just cycle on and off at 100% output to maintain whatever heat rise is required.

Bruce

I read the description of the product , so would stay with my original opinion

Anybody wanna bet some CASH ........?????
Since it has a thermostat that must work just like a dial on your range top ?
I,ll go buy the product and publish my test results.

Basically with an elec element , if you only have 1000 watts ....
It will just use what it gets ......
Not the same with a motor load.



Maybe Steve70 has a amp meter & can tell us today ?

OverTheTopCargoTrailer wrote:Anybody wanna bet some CASH ........?????
Since it has a thermostat that must work just like a dial on your range top ?

Umm, that's the way the range top works, it just cycles on and off at full load. How much cash are we talking about?

Bruce

Basically with an elec element , if you only have 1000 watts ....
It will just use what it gets ......

Sorry, electricity doesn't work like that. The resistance of the heating element remains the same, regardless of the current available. If you plug it into a 20A rated source, it will still draw 30A, but it will overheat something along the circuit path. Hopefully that something will be the circuit breaker that opens and prevents the wiring from overheating.

As Bruce says, it's going to cycle on and off at full power to keep the output water at the set temp.

<Chas>