Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I have a bunch more questions.

So many choices for ceiling panels! I have searched and looked at a billion builds, but I would really like to know some of your opinions about how what you used has held up.

The roof of my cargo trailer has a good curve to it. It has the supports at 2 foot spacing. I also have about a 1/4th inch space between my insulation and the bottom of the ceiling ribs. Should I fill that space to hold the insulation up tight against the roof, or does it matter? What would I fill with? Should I add another layer of insulation running lengthwise and just screw the ceiling panels into the runners? I am open to any suggestions or advice. What have been your experiences?



I have it insulated, the vent in, and the lights wired. Next step is the ceiling panels, but I can't decide which to use. Inexpensive and light are probably my main criteria. A finished surface is optional. I can either stain or fill and paint as needed. What are some pros and cons of the different materials? Do some of them sag over time? What would you do or use if you built again?

Thanks!
Cindy

I used 1/4" plywood underlayment from lowes......cheap, clear with no knots, and sanded......dont know if I want to stain or paint it....probably will paint white to keep interior brightened up....

Those are what I have been leaning toward getting. Are those 1/4 inch panels hard to get to conform to the curve on a rounded top trailer?

Rainier70, Howdy;

Why not cut them 1/4" to 3/8" longer than needed and sort of
place one end into position and then 'wedge' the other end in
so that pressure and tension hold the panels in place ....

hank

+1^^ And you can cut planks and not have to put big pieces up, maybe 4-8"...

Rainer70,
I installed 5 runs of 1x4s the length of the CT attached to the ceiling ribs. This left me room for another thin layer of insulation between the 1x4s. I screwed the 1/4" plywood to the 1x4s. It had no problem conforming to the curve. For a little additional support I used 1x2s over all joints and another down the center. It does sag a little between the 1x4s but it is not noticable due to the curvature of the ceiling. I'm thinking I may clear coat it and paint the walls. There are pictures of it in my build. The link to it is by my signature at the bottom.
Good luck on your build.!!

Earnest

Cutting smaller and adding stringers are all good ideas. Earnest, your ceiling is looking good. What are you going to use for your front end cap? I am thinking of trying some cutting and shaping with roof flashing, or putting in a light bar. Maybe both!

Rainer70,
The "plan" is: Put another 1x2 on top of my front cabinets under the 1x2 that is helping to support ceiling there. Cut a section of 1/4 plywood to fit. This will create a small wall hiding the insulation & wiring. Then use 1/2" quarter-round trim to cover the edge. 98% of my wiring is going to be where I can get to it if I need to for future changes or additions. (I suffer from a combination of OCD & improvementitis ) Along the top curved edges down the sides of the trailer, I am "planning" on cutting 2x2s at about a 27 deg angle and attach it to the ceiling and another cut at 45 deg just below the top of wall covering. Cut 1/4" plywood and attach to the cut 2x2s creating a channel along the top of the walls. My wiring will be hidden in the channels. The wiring that will come out of those channels to lights and outlets will be inside wire raceways. Note I said "planning". Thing could change real fast if this gets to be too much of a PIA.

I hope to post to my build soon. I need a couple of hours work to have my cabinets completed except for the face and installed.
Did I totally confuse you with that explanation? I had myself going for a while there!

Earnest

Thanks for the reply. I think I have the gist of the idea, but pictures will help! I too have most of my wiring where it will be accessible for future changes.... I can already think of one I will change this week!

Rainier70 wrote:Those are what I have been leaning toward getting. Are those 1/4 inch panels hard to get to conform to the curve on a rounded top trailer?

the underlayment is pretty easy to bend.....my ceiling only had a slight arc to it.....enough pitch to have rain water run off....however the corners where roof and walls meet had a substancial radius....I had local metal fab shop bend some aluminum diamond plate for the corners (in photo album)......got my wiring run behind it......also boxed in door spring assembly with d/plate......

Your underlayment ceiling looks really smooth and nice. But your custom diamond plate sides with the led lights looks awesome! Great build!

I wish I had pictures to show you. That would mean the fragment of my imagination had come to life. capt4903 is a good rep of my idea except done in really cool diamond plate instead of 1/4" plywood. The 1/4" does conform to the curved roof very well as long as you have enough connect points to suspend it. Between my 1x2s I used rv style ceiling supports like http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Ceiling-Rosettes-Screw-Included/dp/B007DZFUZ0/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1370491272&sr=8-8&keywords=clear+rosettes+with+screws These are typical of what is used in RVs for the same purpose.

Earnest

Okay, that makes sense. I didn't know you could buy those rosettes.
Thanks for the link, I wouldn't have even known what they were called!

I used a pre-finished birch beadboard paneling for my ceiling. I liked how it turned out.

I also used a pre-finished birch beadboard paneling for my ceiling. it looks great.