6x12 RC Workshop/Cargo Trailer Build

[orcadigital]

Hello everyone. First time poster though I have been lurking and reading up on a lot of the excellent build threads here. Finally decided to sign up, and post my project and probably solicit for some advice throughout.

This is a little different from the normal camper builds here. I have been a homeowner for a little over a year now, and have found the need to carry larger items (ladders, lawn mower, drywall, etc) then my SUV can handle. A trailer seemed to be the answer. Also, one of my hobbies is racing remote control cars. Most of the outdoor offroad races we go to offer little to no shelter, and only sometimes power. We have done the pop-up tent thing, but as I was looking for trailers anyway, decided a dual purpose was the best way to go. I ended up finding a 2001 6x12 Pace American for an excellent price on Craigslist. It has some dents and is not very pretty, but is structurally sound and was within budget. It came pretty basic, with luan interior walls, 2 shelves built into the front, and 3 lights wired in to an AC plug with a switch. No DC lights other then exterior marker/brake/signals. Took it out to the track a couple times and began to get a feel for what it needed. and have spent some time recently in a friends already set up 6x10. Also important to me was a shorter trailer. It is a 5.5' interior height, which makes my goal of getting it in the garage a possibility.

Project outline:

Lower trailer enough to fit in garage
Install interior and exterior lighting
Redo interior wood panelling and insulate
Install AC and DC power system
Install Air Conditioning
Install front cabinets
Fabricate removable workbenches
Install rear freezer panelling
Carpet flooring
Etrack and finished walls

There is probably more, but that is the general plan. To date, I have stripped out the interior and the AC power that was in. I have also replaced the axle with a brake capable 4" drop axle with 14" wheels and new fenders. I have some purchased items and will continue with assembly as time permits.

Currently awaiting installation:

30 AMP shore power/generator inlet
WFCO 55 AMP Convertor
5050 BTU Window Air Conditioner
Wiring and outlet hardware
Front cabinets and possibly counter
RV style door latch for side door

Next plans are to remove the etrack from the floor and fill the holes. Next will rough in the wiring for AC and DC including interior and exterior outlets, power inlet, and location of convertor box. Then will insulate, put in 1/4 plywood walls, and install the front cabinets. I need to remove the vent from the roof, install new side vents, then insulate and put up 5mm luan on the ceiling. Still trying to determine exactly how to do the wall mount air conditioner. Currently debating between a partial removable false wall in the rear or in the front on slides then can be slid out when used. Interior lighting will be DC (LED strip lights is the current plan) powered from the WFCO. I will always have access to shore power or a generator so a battery is not in the plans today, but might be later. I went with a much larger convertor for the RC cars. The chargers we use for the batteries are all DC powered. It seemed silly to run AC and convert back to DC with power supplies when I am already putting in DC power. Need to find a nice way to mount 4mm banana jacks into the wall that will not protrude. The 30 amp inlet is the marine twistlock style (which I know was not recommended), but I already have a 25' cable and adapter to regular 15 amp service. It is beefier then any extension cord and I wanted to put in more then I needed to account for any future changes (larger AC, running a compressor, etc). I plan on running 20 amp service to wherever the AC will be installed, 15 amp outlets inside (GFCI) and 1 15 amp outlet on the outside (passenger side, also GFCI) for either a compressor or friends pitting in a pop up tent against the side of the trailer.

Sorry for the long intro, but attached are some pictures of first getting it.

Thanks!

Grant

[orcadigital]

I did not think to take many pictures, but this was the first outing in it to the track. You can see the amount of garbage we bring with us. The one picture is of a friend (who has the fully built trailer now) but shows the way we laid it out initially. 2 6ft tables facing opposite walls (for balance and because together they were about an inch too long to fit side by side). I will be planning on putting all the work tables on the left (driver) side of the trailer when the build is done. The front area with shelves will become a narrow counter (only 15" between the front wall and the side door) with a cabinet and storage beneath, and 2 cabinets above.

[orcadigital]

This is the current state. Drop axle, 14" wheels (instead of 15"), new fenders (need to install the new lights) and the gutted interior. You can also see just how close it is to fitting in the garage. The trailer was definitely a cheaper one, 24" centers on the walls, luan sheeting, etc. The joists are also fairly thin, which will make fitting in electrical boxes a challenge. As I still wish to be able to haul things with this, I want to limit what might protrude, so shallow boxes are the current plan instead of surface mount.

I had a little surface rust in spots which I treated, but no wood rot, even in the common front corners. We have had a LOT of rain here in GA recently and with the walls stripped, I figured any leaks would be obvious. I have not found any yet. I am not sure of a good way to reseal the roof when removing the vent though. Current thought was to get a panel of aluminum (24" square) that I can attach to the roof joists with sheet metal screws. Butyl tape between the panel and the roof, then silicone the screws and all of the edges. I assume connecting to the joists would lead to less movement versus the existing roof then if I just went into the sheet metal of the roof. I am not sure how to account for the curve other then just trying to bend the sheet a little over an old tire to put a little curve into it.

I will definitely miss the light and ability to let in air from it, but there does not seem to be such thing as a thin vent or anything even remotely flush mount. I have thought about using plexi instead of aluminum to at least keep the light, but I am not sure how long term durability would be on it.

Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks!

Grant

[hankaye]

orcadigital, Howdy;

Welcome to the forum...

As to the attachment of the roof patch, You don't need or want to "pre-shape" it.
Simply start the fasteners in the middle of the sides with the curve (front and rear sides),
and alternate the placements both side-to side and front and back, repeat for the ends.

hank

[orcadigital]

No real progress between work and a weekend trip out to the NASCAR race in Bristol. I did get the e-track removed and the holes from the bolts filled. Picked up 1/4 plywood for the walls and some insulation, and have most of the remaining items I need to wire the trailer on the way. Hoping parts arrive for the long weekend coming up. May end up on a trip to Nashville on Sunday, but still should get some progress in. First step is roughing in the wiring and mounting the electrical boxes so I can put up the insullation and plywood. Concentrating on the walls and front first, and will come back afterwards and finish the ceiling once I remove the vent (I have new side vents coming as well).

I did tow the trailer down to Home Depot over the weekend to get the wood. First time since I replaced the axle, and everything was smooth. Pulled straight and felt good behind the SUV. Will be interesting to see if the 4" height drop helps with the mileage at all.

Still overthinking the A/C install as well. Torn between a through wall installation (permanent or sliding) and building up something in the rear. Single axle, I would prefer it in front of the axle for balance, but I am sure I am just putting too much thought into it. Will need to figure it out as the 20A wiring needs to go in the wall wherever I plan on putting it.

Will snap some more pics as progress happens.

[roadinspector]

orcadigital,

Considering the minimal weight of the AC compared to the rest of the load, it shouldn't make that big of a difference where you put if you go permanent. If its removable, you can put it where ever for transport. I would suggest laying out everything else where you want it and install it where it will not interfere with anything else. If circulation is an issue, use a fan. Mine is removable and installed in the side. So far with the help of an oscillating fan, it is working great while working in it during our 100 deg days. So I fully expect it to do really good while being lazy out camping.

Good luck!
Earnest

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi Orcadigital,
Great start! The folks on this forum have some great ideas and it seems like many have already tried ideas I am coming up with -- Great ideas folks

Before you let the air out of the tires, I remember seeing a couple of low profile roof vents that may work for you, but you are really close!!

Check this one out for starters and you may want to inquire further on the actual height:
Ventadome (by Ventline) Non-Powered Roof Vent, (metal) 14" x 14" #V2110-601-00 -- Ventadome non-powered radius corner screen frame designed roof vents include a low profile metal dome, manual crank dome lift, screen and frame, extra strong galvanized steel roof flanges and a superior bulb weather seal.
The web address is: http://www.easternmarine.com/ventadome- ... 110-601-00

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress!!

[orcadigital]

I appreciate the link. Sent an email to the manufacturer asking for height. I do like the top vent from an airflow perspective, and not sure how comparable the side vents are. I see more newer trailers with the side vents though.

I did some layout options in Excel (all I have really). Last night I started work on the front cabinet to determine spacing and the like. I need to get some longer screws for some of the framework, and determine what wiring is going where in the front wall first though. The thought is to box in the area in the left front (2x4 frame with 1/4" plywood front) with the WFCO converter mounted into that, and bringing in shore power in the front left side of the trailer for a direct and short run. This would also make it fairly easy to add in a battery(s) later on onto the tongue.

The idea with the counters is to run etrack at counter height (31") and again near the floor and using the wood end sockets into the track to support the counters with them still being easily removable. If I do it correctly, I should be able to do either of the first 2 layouts with 2 4' tables and 1 6' depending on the need. I am not sure about only having the side door to get in and out as the trailer gets fairly narrow once you put in the counter and some chairs. All 3 layouts could pit 3 people, but the 1st and third give the most room. The advantage of the third is not having to put any kind of hole in the trailer for the A/C, but requires the most fabrication.

I appreciate the warm welcome and kind words!

Grant

[Rainier70]

One thing that I have heard about the side vents is that you can't close them. If you are on a dusty dirt road, they will fill your CT with dirt.

[orcadigital]

From looking at them, that would be the case. I luckily do not live on any dirt roads, but as many of the tracks we go to tend to have trailer parking that is unpaved, that is a valid concern. As we are playing in the dirt anyway, I am not sure it will be any worse coming in the vents then it would be coming in the doors, off the cars, or off of us though. I know that the back of the outside vent forces the air to do a 180 before coming inside which is supposed to stop the majority of water and dirt. I think I could cover with painters tape or something similar if I knew a trip would involve some dirt roads.

I would love to keep the top vent, and if I can get something in a slimmer fashion (that does not leak) I will definitely go that way. The top vent even without a fan is very efficient from my limited time so far, and anything I do to change it introduces the possibility of water leaks. The vent caps all appear to be ~4 inches, as are the RV skylights. Searches on slim, low profile, etc all come up with nothing different. I admit I have even considered sawzalling the roof of my race car project for the sunroof assembly in it, but as most of the hardware, motor, and all of the gaskets are missing, it was really not feasible.

Any other thoughts or ideas, please throw them my way. I am weeks+ from removing the vent, so I have some time as I try to get the walls, wiring, and front done for an upcoming race in Nashville in late September.

Grant

[roadinspector]

Found this side vent with a lever operated door.
http://kmtparts.com/trailer-body-components/side-wall-vents/8x12-alum-vent-w-gasket-dbl-pop-up.html

Earnest

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

I also have some of those, mine open forward and backward.



http://www.nhtrailers.com/Options/SWVA.htm



http://www.etrailer.com/Enclosed-Trailer-Parts/Redline/RV-626-062.html

[orcadigital]

How did you finish the inside with a vent like that? I like the idea a lot and that it can be opened and closed.

[orcadigital]

Well 3 day weekend meant progress, but nowhere near what I was hoping for.

Framed out the front area for the cabinets. This is to make room for wiring, space the cabinets enough to fit even with the door, and give myself a flat front to deal with. Several modifications occured during this period, but one of two upper cabinets is installed, and the lower is installed and the faux cabinet is partially framed out. I also got the insullation up in the front, the shore power inlet installed (scary putting a 2 3/4 hole in the front of the trailer), and began to run some of the wiring. Getting everything level (minus my camera abilities) and securing the cabinets for mobile use (and not just hanging on the wall) was a challenge. I do not have too much left to do in framing out the left side, and just have to build the other upper cabinet (IKEA yay) and then can focus on the wiring that I have been putting off as it is outside my comfort zone.

Attached are a couple pics, nothing too fancy, but not an empty trailer anymore either.

[roadinspector]

Any progress is good!!

Earnest