Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Its a Interstate load runner 6x12
My wife never could get comfortable in the little TD so here we go
My first issue is how high the trailer sits up; I think I am gonna swap spring for torsion axle (with brakes) and maybe shorter tires.
Trailer has barn bars and I will set up a galley/storage area against a partition wall. A queen size mattress will sit on other side with storage underneath. (I will insulate and repanel inside also). Compact chem toilet closet and storage at front end of trailer and maybe some hammock or bunks for the kids. Electric will be pretty minimal.
Thanks to everybody for all the great info and expertise shared here

Looks like it has a straight (non dropped) axle. Some folks want that for the ground clearance for bumpy road/trail travel. A torsion axle can be ordered with just the right degree of "lowness" to suit anyone. And if you go too low a welder can always insert spacer blocks to lift it some. My wife does not like the lack of vertical space in a TD either. G/L. As for shorter tires watch the load capacity of them.

Flynnworx, Howdy;

When looking for your 'shorter' tires, the trick is in the sidewall height usually expressed as the 78, 75,
80 or 60 number which is a percentage of the width which is the R235 or whatever number is the lead
number of the tire you are considering.
Maybe this will explain it better.
http://tire-size-conversion.com/how-to-read-tire-size/

Good luck.

hank

Flynnworx wrote:http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?album_id=273&image_id=112729
Its a Interstate load runner 6x12
My wife never could get comfortable in the little TD so here we go
My first issue is how high the trailer sits up; I think I am gonna swap spring for torsion axle (with brakes) and maybe shorter tires.
Trailer has barn bars and I will set up a galley/storage area against a partition wall. A queen size mattress will sit on other side with storage underneath. (I will insulate and repanel inside also). Compact chem toilet closet and storage at front end of trailer and maybe some hammock or bunks for the kids. Electric will be pretty minimal.
Thanks to everybody for all the great info and expertise shared here

Looks similar to mine, and I had the same issue. I swapped the straight axle for a 4" drop axle. Extremely pleased with the conversion and it was very simple. The drop axle I bought did need to brackets welded on (which seems common), and I ended up replacing the fenders to clear the raised wheels and because they were just beat up. My goal is to fit my trailer in the garage, which was part of the reason for the drop axle, but it also feels like it tows a little better, and I appreciate the lower step up height when getting in and out of it.

I went with the leaf spring axle due to cost and the ease of install. It was a couple u-bolts to remove the old axle, and a couple more to reinstall the new one. Other then hitting up a friend to weld on the brackets (took 15 min) it was a couple hour job. That included cleaning and repacking the bearings, and painting the metal where the welding was done.

Your gonna have to do a little work to get it to match with your super nice car

I'm seeing something that looks as cool as a T@B
Can't wait and see more pictures as your building it.

Jerry

Ok, I am reading lots of posts and have some ?s:
1. I have barn doors on the rear and wonder about removing and making a flat panel hatch that would open up like a TD (my galley will be in the rear with a wall separating from rest of trailer ) the doors seem unnecessary
2. Anyone use hammocks for kids?
3. Do most people end up sealing the roof?
4. How low do most set their trailers? Is there a rule of thumb for ground clearance?

I have a RV slam latch to install tomorrow and starting planning

Flynnworx wrote:Ok, I am reading lots of posts and have some ?s:
1. I have barn doors on the rear and wonder about removing and making a flat panel hatch that would open up like a TD (my galley will be in the rear with a wall separating from rest of trailer ) the doors seem unnecessary
2. Anyone use hammocks for kids?
3. Do most people end up sealing the roof?
4. How low do most set their trailers? Is there a rule of thumb for ground clearance?

I have a RV slam latch to install tomorrow and starting planning

I think I have seen a conversion here that is simular to what you are talking about. Where the barn doors are, he replaced with a hatch door that hinged up for galley access and a cover. It looked like it would work rather well.

I do not know whether most seal their roof or not. There are several folks that have painted their roof with elastrometric paint to reflect heat. Sealing it better is just a side benefit of the product. Generally the metal roof of a CT is not susceptible to leaks like an RV is.

Hope this helped.
Earnest

I got the slam latch installed and 2 used windows form a local. I have insulated and paneled the door and walls at windows. I will post pics later.

1.crank out window on driver side; blue tape is where hatch door is going to be cut in for AC

2.new stabilizers jacks in rear

3. slider window, port hole in door and slam latch

4. Inside is mostly insulated and paneled; i need to take some better pics to post

Excellent progress. Good workmanship!

Looks good! I am very interested to watch how you do the AC install.

Same here, just starting my cargo camper too

I think the uplift "tailgate" idea is great. It would give me a lot of flexibility for what I want to do with a 6 x 14 trailer with barn doors.
One of our forum members made a side door from scratch.

See jimbo5971's http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=51712 link.

I would think that a larger rear door could be make for the back end using his approach.

Significant obstacles that I see to overcome are:
1. Getting aluminum sheet to match trailer
2. Hinge system on top
3. Hold up posts or hydraulic assist struts.

Benefits I see for me are:
-Gives one an instant awning
-Would give me an area to include a portable shower under.

I have one CT manufacturer in mind for my to be order CT and I think I will send them a not to see about having a factory one made.

Bob

I just sent an email off to the manufacturer of the CT I think I will order asking him if they would ship a CT with the lift door.
Even though this will not help with your already owned trailer, maybe it will give you some ideas to work from should you decide to buy one.
We will see what their response is.
Bob

And if you were really interested in this concept, Granger has assisted struts for the lift door.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BANSBA ... vc=IDPRRZ1
I guess the size depends on the weight of your lift door.

Now for the hinge and trim concerns.