Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

While still searching for that right trailer, I am close to ordering my 6x14 as I have mentioned maybe too many times before. But I seem to be coming up with new ideas all the time.

On this sketch, I am trying to think out how to use a 6 x 14 CT with a "pull out" "chuck wagon" style of box in the back which would then add two feet to the trailer for me to add a shower and toilet area without giving up valuable space in the front of the trailer. I am considering this as I do not to go 7 feet wide and I do not think I can get a 16 foot long trailer with a single axle. I am motivated for this 14 length size b/c of budget restraints and for towing ease with my F150.

On this skecth, I hope my concept is clear. The top view is with the "box" in for travel. The bottom view is with it pulled out 2 feet.
That then would allow room for a shower and usable area for the porta-potti. The real challenge I will have with this concept is the sliding mechanism that I will need to design and the bracing system for the "box" when pulled out.

Has anyone seen this done before? Any comments or advice fellow readers will have (other then get another size trailer will be appreciated).
Hunting season starts soon and I will put this project aside after next week for a few more weeks which is when I plan on placing my CT order.

I do not have the barn doors shown in the sketches and I plan on using bunk beds. Do you think 30 or 33 inch wide bunks are wide enough. Several cots I have seen are only about 28 inches wide.

My galley. Works just fine.

The only thing I would be wary of is too much weight behind the axle. If the trailer wants to pull up on the TV, it will be much harder to tow, and pickups already are weight challenged in the rear. Friend found that with the generator stored in the rear while towing got to be very tail heavy and was almost scary to drive.

I love the concept though!

Thanks,
Good thought. Must consider it.
Before I start, I will take the trailer to a scale and determine the total weight and the tongue weight and then do a little math to understand the weight ratios. Then do my homework so as not to get into trouble such as you mention.

The weight I will have in the "way" back part of it will be the plywood for the slide out unit and I can pretty much calculate that before making the first cut. Then I will consider the AC unit and other stuff to be stored. This is one reason why I think I will keep dual 12V batteries and the propane tank or tanks on the tongue. The batteries could get moved inside to the front if needed. I will do all the estimates and math work before going to far and for sure run the CT by the scales again.

Prem wrote:My galley. Works just fine.

Prem and I always did like your idea. Just keep it simple. I am really struggling with the push-pull thoughts and have to bring myself back to reality of keeping things simple. I have little devils on my shoulders

(how do I add the Smilies....I tried it and only got the http code)

Just click on the SMILIES on the right of the POST A REPLY screen...over there ------->

Hey it works....thanks.

lrrowe, Howdy;

lrrowe wrote:Thanks,
Good thought. Must consider it.
Before I start, I will take the trailer to a scale and determine the total weight and the tongue weight and then do a little math to understand the weight ratios. Then do my homework so as not to get into trouble such as you mention.

The weight I will have in the "way" back part of it will be the plywood for the slide out unit and I can pretty much calculate that before making the first cut. Then I will consider the AC unit and other stuff to be stored. This is one reason why I think I will keep dual 12V batteries and the propane tank or tanks on the tongue. The batteries could get moved inside to the front if needed. I will do all the estimates and math work before going to far and for sure run the CT by the scales again.

Look again at the distance that the axel is set from the front of the trailer. It's set aft of the center point of the box,
giving you 'a hand' in getting the (roughly), 60%/40% split (60% to the front). Just something to keep in the back of your mind
when you start your calculations.

hank

Thanks Hank,
Yes I was planing on using the "moments" or "distributed load" type of calculations.
Bob

What if instead of a rear "slide out" you use the structure of the ramp rear door for a floor (maybe mount some of the fold down stabilizer jacks to it to easily level it to the rest of the trailer). Then you can either have fold out walls or roof (or possibly a fold out tent) to make the extended portion of the trailer?

edit: i know you mentioned cargo doors in the rear, but a ramp might make things easier for you...

confused,

You hit on an idea I sort of thought of before but not to too much depth. That is one reason I have hesitated so long to order my CT. Barn doors or ramp? Lady or the Tiger?

There are benefits for both doors. I have a basis for barn doors but I cannot give you a convincing reason why. But you now will have me thinking again about the real set-up idea. This pre-purchase work for me will take longer then the construction. Back to the drawing board. I should have gotten one of those free PC sketch software.

Hmmmm, I wonder if one could add barn doors later if one put a lot time into one (CT) and then wanted to switch doors w/o buying a new CT and starting over.

Bob

lrrowe, Howdy;

Funny you should mention your thoughts about building a pair of doors;
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=51712

You might PM the poster in that thread to see what difficulties he may have encountered.

hank