Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Howdy All;

Thought I'd ask if anyone has used a Rotozip to cut out windows
for their CT's or other projects? How did you like it? Pluses and minuses
welcome.
I'm NOT affiliated with them just curious.

Thanks;

hank

I used a Rotozip to cut the profile, doors (at the same time), circular vent openings (4 + 1 times), the opening for my interior-mounted A/C, and both windows. I cut the profile and the doors out at the same time...laying one 3/4" sheet of plywood on top of the other (1.5" thick), clamping guides to maintain a line, and proceeding. My advice...don't try this at home! The tool was a bear to control, and the results had to be heavily sanded for a crisp line. My idea to use the Rotozip, not recommended. On the other hand, cutting the single thickness of 3/4" ply for the circular vent openings was much better. I had no trouble, though the bit jumps around (it's not made for that thick of material), but was controllable, thanks to the anchored circular swing-arm. I also tried to free-hand the opening for my park power cord entry. Not good, but hidden! As to the A/C opening, it was perfect to reach it and cut very close to the adjacent interior wall, whereas there was no room for a jigsaw. On to the windows. The cuts were made in the walls using screwed on guide rails; still hard to control, but not too bad. I measured wrong, and had to enlarge the openings freehand (very hard to control). I had two jigsaws fail me on this build, and one circular saw, and a router tried to impale me...the Rotozip, my angle grinder, and my friend's Snap-on impact and drill did most of the work. If I was to build another trailer, I would use the Rotozip again, but on 1/2" plywood this time. Sample cuts:

• circular vent
• ragged window opening (freehanded)

How long is your RotoZip bit? I'm wondering how it would work on
my 1.5" foam for cutting widths to curve the top?

Thanks,

working on it, Howdy;

Thanks for the report. Did a bit of reading on their website and they don't recommend
the multiple pieces of any material stacked up. They say it will burn up the bit.
Again, thanks for the report.
Anyone else???

hank

pchast wrote:How long is your RotoZip bit? I'm wondering how it would work on
my 1.5" foam for cutting widths to curve the top?

Thanks,

I really don't remember which one worked best, having tried the X-bits for wood, general purpose, and metal, at different times. If I remember correctly, the one I used for the 1.5" double-thickness cut was the 1.8" long general purpose. I pulled it out to leave about a 1/4" in the collet, and really cranked down on the tightening wrench. That was two years ago; I've slept since then. For cutting the 3/4" single thickness plywood, I believe I first tried the drywall bit, but it was scorching the wood more than cutting it (a lot of smoke!), so I switched to the wood bit. I tried the metal cutter to make the power port entry, but it took off on me. The general purpose is my favorite, except for drywall use. As to cutting foam? I don't know. Maybe the drywall bit (1/8" thick). But, I'll look around the shop to see if I have some scrap foam (probably 1/2" thick-x3?), and try it, if I get to it before the freezing rain arrives tomorrow. I HATE freezing rain.

I used the rotozip on my first trailer for the windows and some trim work and it was a little scary and made for a rough finish, I used a laminate router to make the cuts on my current build and am much happier with the results and safety of the tool.

The trimmer I used is one of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ryobi-Trim-Lami ... 2ecc726787

these type bits seem to work the best for following a pattern on top of the wall

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Bit-Pattern-T ... 5651fe1d6f

and these type work great for following a frame on the other side of the wall

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-pc-1-4-SH-Ext ... 27db1eea76

all are made for wood and usually go through the thin metal of these trailers with ease

poordad, Howdy;

Thanks for the recommendation, hadn't thought of the router ...

hank