Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I am wondering if anyone has had any experience with this scenario.

I want a SA CT for all the good reasons mentioned by others in this forum. I also want a 6 x 14 CT, also for the many reasons mentioned by others. This I have pretty much decided on.

But a new item on my want list has caused me to think again about SA versus TA axles setups. I do not want the TA's for the cost (first and ongoing), weight gain and ease turning in tight spots. But if I were to want a Harley or Can Am Trike later (has to be later, b/c my wife will not let me press that "buy" button as of now) I do want to handle the added weight of the Trike. I do not want to go out and buy a CT again and go through all the conversion process.

The addition of the Trike would bring me pretty close the 3500# (axle with Brakes) limit. But I can get a 6000# SA, Torflex with Brakes, which will give the 6 x 14 SA unit a 5000# rating by the manufacture. And the premium is within my budget. That rating of 5000# will more then give me enough wiggle room should I ever (probably not) get my Trike.

So I am interested in hearing from anyone who has some negative inputs on this 5000# SA setup? I cannot see a problem with it, but I am a novice in this area.

Thanks,
bob

BOB

Where do you get these crazy ideas ? thats my department

With a torflex you would most likely be ok.... with a spring you would bounce around like crazy.
for best ride your trailer should be 80% of the Axel rating..... ie 5,000 lbs
WORST CASE - so without the bike , just put 2,000 Lbs concrete bags in the trailer.
or a 2" thick concrete trailer floor.

What do they use for tires to get the 5000# rating on a single axle?

Load range E or higher six lug wheels and tires.

I used to own a gooseneck dual axle trailer rated at 14K lbs.

If you go with the 5000 lb axel and installed 3000 lb springs you will get a good ride. then if you get a trike you could install 5000 lb springs to handle the added weight.
My 6x10 trailer has a torsion axel on it and it bounces everything around. Springs seem to be smoother and you can "adjust" the springs to get the best ride.

MtnDon wrote:What do they use for tires to get the 5000# rating on a single axle?

MtnDon, I sent a request off to the manufacturer. Lets see if they reply early next week.

But I did a little research and this is what I think they will say. They are quoting a 6000# Dexter Torflex axle with 225/75R D tires and electric brakes.

These "D" tires are rated for about 2540 lbs each from what I can see on the web. So taking the weakest link of chain approach, the tires would only support the 5000# rating. Now if E class tires were used at about 2830 # load rating each, that still would not get to the 6000# rating.

Since I am by far no expert in this area, I will stop speculating anymore until I see their reply.
Does this all make sense?

Bob

Yep. I didn't feel like searching out tire capacities, but I knew my ST205/75R15's would not do the job.

lrrowe, Howdy;

Sounds like you've gone for a walk-about inside my head...
My thoughts have turned to a 6X14 and going for the heavier
axel with brakes. I'm going with an Interstate and need to
contact them ...one more time ... to see what the new specs
will cost out at. I'm looking for springs as I can remove one or
2 to soften the ride when I won't be hauling anything heavy.
I'll send out an inquiry this weekend and post what I find out.

hank

I'd be careful with the tire capacity, 5,000# is pushing it a bit for a single axle as far as tire capacity goes. You'll want to make sure you know what your load really is (get it weighed) and it's loaded evenly. I'm pretty skittish about tire capacity since I had the blow out a couple of years ago, I don't like to run anywhere close to the tire limit...



Goodyear Tire Selector

BTW, I only posted the Marathon tire specs as a reference of typical tire capacity. I won't ever buy another Marathon after two spectacular failures.

Bruce

P.S. This is what happens to tires when running in hot temperatures at high speed with sketchy capacity:

bdosborn, Howdy;

Judging from the uneven tread wear I'm thinking that there
was more than a hot tire going on there or the cause of the hot tire.
Do you get your Trailer tires balanced??? Check the hub nuts to be sure
the tires aren't doing any wobbling???
I'm not looking to max. out the weight of my CT when I get it but would like/prefer
the ability to carry what it is that requires the road trip. I'm of the opinion that
80% of max weight is the total I would ever carry so a 4,800# max is more than
enough for me. Closer to 4,000# I would think.

hank

The uneven wear was not there when we left the house on our trip:

Tire Failure - Blowout!

Marathons have a reputation for this kind of failure:

Google Marathon Tire Failure

Bruce

I went thru the same thought process when I bought my trailer 7 + 14 .
I wanted a single axle trailer, The salesman ask if he could throw some ideals out at me before I made up my mind.
With a tandem ,no worrys about overloading 7000 # weight limit
Made it also easier on the tires and didnt have to order anything special to haul the load
Much better ground clearance going through dips because the wheels were farther back and to the front with a tandem.
I wanted a axle that had springs , easy to find parts ,easy to work on , and easy to tune to your load
I was amazed at the difference in stability when walking around inside the trailer, with the tandem no stands were needed.
I cant tell the difference in pulling and backing this 7+14 and my Casita 17 fter which is a single axle, and they are just about the same size
doesn't make much difference in this short a trailer
I pull with a 1500 dodge so the extra few lbs isnt noticed.
This is why I wound up with a T A
Ron

Tx River Rat wrote:I went thru the same thought process when I bought my trailer 7 + 14 .
I wanted a single axle trailer, The salesman ask if he could throw some ideals out at me before I made up my mind.
With a tandem ,no worrys about overloading 7000 # weight limit
Made it also easier on the tires and didnt have to order anything special to haul the load
Much better ground clearance going through dips because the wheels were farther back and to the front with a tandem.
I wanted a axle that had springs , easy to find parts ,easy to work on , and easy to tune to your load
I was amazed at the difference in stability when walking around inside the trailer, with the tandem no stands were needed.
I cant tell the difference in pulling and backing this 7+14 and my Casita 17 fter which is a single axle, and they are just about the same size
doesn't make much difference in this short a trailer
I pull with a 1500 dodge so the extra few lbs isnt noticed.
This is why I wound up with a T A
Ron

Agreed. My tandem axle dump trailer is always right behind me and I hardly know it's there. I once had to really jerk the wheel hard over to avoid someone that was cutting me off. I was surprised at how well it handled it. I question if a single axle trailer would have handled as well. I get nearly 24 mpg at 65 with my Traverse with no trailer. I get 20 mpg at 55 mph towing the trailer which weighs 2000# empty. I doubt a single axle trailer would be much better as the wind resistance is the biggest factor. I am able to use std automotive tires and still carry nearly two tons of cargo and not exceed the limits of the tires and axles.

Other than being able to move the unhooked trailer around a bit easier (maybe) I see little advantage to a single axle trailer. I think the advantages of tandem axles far outweigh the disadvantages.

My two scents.

Gus

I guess I just never get this, all that research you guys do......

You all could just believe me, spend 1/2 to 1/4 as much time working at Mickey Dee's, take that easy money & end up with a nice 7 x 18 CarMate from PA


Then your only worry is that the "GLOCK MEISTER" is on duty 24/7