Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hey all, newbie here, I have been looking at everyone's build pictures on here and am extremely impressed with what you all are coming up with! Everyone's builds look like factory options! Really hoping mine turns out that well! My first plan of attack is front cabinet and counter top of some sort. at this point, I'm not really planning on going all out camper build. As much as I would like to do that, I still want this trailer to be able to be used as a utility trailer. Cabinets would be just for camping equipment storage.

My main question, from all the builds I have seen, I THINK I'm seeing 2x3 construction for the frame work? Is that right? Are you stapling these boards together, screwing, nailing??? I'm not sure if I should buy premade cabinets and make them fit, or build my own. I would think keeping light weight is the over all goal, so my thought of main structure being 2x4 would be a bit heavy. Could someone give me some building tips? Also, how are you all fastening over head cabinets in the nose? I don't have a ton of room with having a slant nose, but thought I could at least mount stereo and speakers up there so they are hanging too low. I'm not feeling any roof bracing in the vnose for some reason. Flooring, from seeing everyone's pics, I'd like to use the coin pattern flooring. ANY building tips for a new guy would be appreciated! Here are some photos of what I have to work with. It's a 7x12 6 ft interior height. Sorry for all the mud, this was first pics when I bought it and previous owner left it muddy. Thanks for any input!

Mike

Hello Mike,

I can't answer any of your questions but can give you a couple of suggestions....
1- Let others know what area you live in and one might respond with an invitation to look at their's. I had that happen and it turned out to be a very informative trip.
2- Read this forum from top to bottom and over again. Tons of useful info. This will answer most of your questions.

Good luck with your project.

Rich

In my opinion if you are putting cabinets up front and are still keeping the back open for hauling, weight is good. Depending on what you haul, with cabinets up there it might limit how much tongue weight you can put up front because you won't be able to put what you're hauling as far forward. I'm planning on adding some battery boxes on the tongue of mine to get a little more weight on mine. But mine is a double axle and I use mine to haul inventory to shows for my hobby business, so it's a little different than most on here. Also I'm pulling it with an F-250 with stiff springs, so my truck can take all the tongue weight this trailer can through at it also.

Okay great, thanks everyone. Im in Peoria, Il. and have found one member on here from peoria as well, so hoping to stop and look at his teardrop creation soon in hopes of getting ideas. Thats a good thought with the weight, the tav I'm hauling is a rear engine, so having a little weight up front could help me

I know it's a little bit of a drive for you, but I make it over to Cedar Rapids, IA every month or two with my trailer if you ever want to see it also.

cool thanks, I'm not usually up there, but if I do get up there, I'll shoot you a message and see when your next planned trip is

Welcome Mike,
I took a ton of photos during the mfg of my CT and they have been invaluable as a reference as to where studs and braces are located. I also found that a standard stud locator works well in marking the stud locations; you might check with the trailer mfg and see if they would be willing to give you a stud and brace (framing) chart. They may also let you take photos of a similar trailer before it gets skinned and/or paneled.

You asked about size of cabinet (I think) material size; I cut much my wood down from 2x4's to 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 and faced with a light weight (pine) cabinet-grade plywood. I used this technique for the lower galley cabinet and will follow the same technique for the upper galley. All galley shelving bottoms are cut down 2x4's to 1-1/4"x1/4" slats, spaced at 1/2" (glued and tacked in-place with brads) and they are proving to be what I want. The cabinet turned out lighter than I had expected and was installed used glue and screws to the 3/8" plywood walls and screwed to the studs where possible. I used the white interior/exterior Gorilla wood glue (Not the clear, as it foams) at all joints.
See my build gallery photos for an idea if you like) and happy building.

Remember, the T&TTT site is great for ideas and fantastic advice; while using this information and taking his or her time, things will come together. I started to build and wanted mine to look as nice as some of the TD's I have seen on the site, but in reality, my goal was a primary off-road camper with a second duty as a CT (Ugh) and I had to continue to force myself to reevaluate my goal and process!

Hey Mike,
As an added note from a personal point of view - I NEVER use particle or chip board where plywood or solid lumber will work (especially due to weight vs. strength and stability. Because of this, all the wood in my trailer is board lumber and plywood .

I ran out of time due to a move and ended up using a recycled piece of 3/4" plywood for the counter top. Just because I want something that looks a little different, it will be changed out to a glued-up plank at about 3/4" to 1-1/4" thick (I have a bunch of oak that may get used here as I have a surplus of 1x4's (That is full 1" by 4"). If planed, jointed, ripped, and color selected for contrasting color and grain, a counter should look nice. The plywood looks and works fine, but after this move, the cargo trailer will be retired to be my winter travel and prospecting lodge and I can afford to take more time in building/modifying certain areas.

In addition, my 6x10 CT weighed in dry (before my additions at 1400#'s); adding the galley, shelving, 5 gallons of water for sink, Ice and food, camping/prospecting gear, propane bottle and Grp 27 Battery on the tongue, charger, and inverter, etc. the weight starts up quickly ... I use this where a 4x4 vehicle is needed and weight consideration is a must!

Anyway, just thought I would add this note and state that lots of folks use pre-built cabinets (and they work and look great) and for cost and material I chose to make my own (Not as nice as a custom shop would make, but acceptable to me), I am also cautious with the wood and strength are concerned.

Good luck...

Hey thank you for the tips! I really appreciate it! I checked out your build and am impressed with it! Looks great! From all the builds I have seen on here and from google images, I think my plan of attack is as follows: 2x2 frame work, but instead of constructing inside the trailer, I am tempted to construct in the garage and install finished unit. I think by doing this way, I can more easily pre drill all holes, glue and screw together from all angles. I think using 2x2's, I can keep the weight down, but still maintain stability and strength. I think though, the top cross board (one counter would sit on) may be a 2x4, on its side for added strength (in case someone sits on counter). I figure I can construct the skeleton of the cabinet, then for the face, use a 1/4 finished plywood, with cabinet holes carefully cut out, so it is one, see less piece. Then just buy premade cabinet doors. Counter top....don't know if that'd be actual counter top or finished plywood with a fancy finish to it. Would REALLY like a nice stainless counter, but I doubt budget would allow. Do you think that sounds like a reasonable plan?

Sounds good Mike ... Good luck and keep us posted

If you are going to construct cabinets in your garage is make a template of the trailer first. The vnoses aren't always truly square. I did this for my counter tops and worked great. I have to agree on not using chipboard or MDF anywhere in the trailer. Heat and humidity will warp and degrade the material quickly. As for mounting overheads just make sure the wall plywood is s rewed into the trailer studs and maybe use liquid nails glue where able.

Thanks for the tip! I've figured out tonight, that I am a horrible carpenter....didn't really help using junk wood from menards. Ended up using mainly 2x3's. Here's what I have so far, started off by building the basic frame in the trailer, with ATV in there just to visualize the space. I then took it out and finished the framing in the garage. I'm hoping tomorrow, to put it back in and start tying it into the trailer for permanent mounting. I went to a builder supply today and found four matching cabinet doors for $24! They weren't as tall as I hoped, but they'll work. The boxes in the upper corners of the frame I built, will be for the speakers, and the center area will probably be half used for stereo head unit, and the other half be open shelving for "charging station" for phones.

Hi Mike,
It looks like you are off to a great start.

Don't worry about the carpenter skills; a great thing about building your own projects is that you can change the plans and modify as YOU PLEASE AND it all comes out in the wash. If you build something and are not satisfied, leave it in or take it out and build it again ... it is all good.

I have several panels I changed out and am still waiting to build the overhead for the galley.

The frame looks great and we are waiting to see it finished.

Hey Mike,
Just curious, are you going to face the frame with plywood or ??? If you do that before you install the doors, you should be able to correct the height issue (bottom or top) with a wood strip (same thickness or less than frame size), depending on your taste and then, use a router with a flush-trim bit to make the door opening the same as the frame opening ... Just thinking out loud

Hi Mike,
Here is one opening on my galley face frame to facing plywood (the two holes in upper area were from pocket hole screws; later filled). The photo is a bit blurry as is was cropped and zoomed in, but you can see the router marks in the corners.
Hmm, I haven't figured out how to insert photo here, so please check my Gallery.