What do wish had been installed on you CT at the Factory

[Erikh425]

Hello all,

I have been a lurker for a while, and during that time I have rebuilt the roof on a TT pretty much from the info gained here and on other web forums. I recently sold the TT and have been seriously thinking that I want a CT for several reasons.

I love to ride motorcycles to events, but have limited time. If I trailer to distant rallies with friends I can make good time and be in shape to ride when I get there. I also want to outfit the CT so I can stay in it at events.

I also haul ATV's and hunt in the fall. A converted CT would be the perfect tool for hauling my ATV's and hunting stuff, and then sleeping in at night.

I am going to be moving about 1500 miles here this summer. If I buy the trailer and use it to move, I should be able to write off a good portion of it on my taxes (I think)

So with the move coming up I can rent a Uhaul or some type of truck and pay upwards of $1K or I can buy a CT for $3-4K and have something useful after the move.

With that being said, the factory is going to build the trailer once I order it. What items would you suggest I have them add? I am tying not to go overboard on the add ons. I can pretty much install anything from windows to axles to electrical. Right now I am going to have them build a 7X16 V-nose with a ramp door. I am going to have them build it with a 6-9" interior height, with the floor joists at 16". I am also going to have them install one 15X30 window on each side of the trailer over the fenders as high as they can. I thought about doing a 30X30 window on one side, but I am just not sure that I want to have a window big enough for someone to smack out and climb in. I am also going to have them install the interior plywood with screws instead of the weird nail screw nightmare fasteners so I can insulate and run wiring.

So, with that being said, should I have them install one 15X30 and one 30X30, or two 30X30's? I am still up in the air on this. It is something I can do at a later time, but for the price it is just easier and probably cheaper to have them do it at the time of build.

What else would you have the factory add? I have E-Track and motorcycle chocks. The others stuff I want to do is pretty easy stuff that I could work on as time permits, but I am looking for advice before I pull the trigger.

Thanks for all of the help in the past, and the future,
E

[lrrowe]

Welcome E,
You should receive a lot of good ideas here. I have.
In addition to what you listed, i can think of at least two or three items to think about. And by no means are they the most critical to think about.

Unless I make sure that the rear entrance is another 1-2 inches taller then the standard doors, with or without a ramp, I would not be able to fit my Kawasaki Mule in. The roll bar is about 1 inch taller then the open doorway in the one model I looked at. I just need to make sure that on the taller unit I order, that they make the rear door taller also.

Then I would have the factory frame in the openings on the top, even if i do not have them put in vents or AC.
I would also research the type of axles and tires you want. There are several manufacturers and styles to consider.

These are some random thoughts that come to mind.

Bob

[jwhite]

I had the factory put in a window and a screened RV door and added 1 foot extra height well worth having them do it right.
Something I would not have thought of but the sales person talked me into it and I am glad they did was putting in rear stabilizer jacks for 50.00 was worth it = without them down in place the trailer is really unstable and shakes when you walk around inside.
Something I was going to do but decided not to do to save money but I wish I had = was to have a generator door installed one on each side it's really nice to be able to take things in and out from the outside and if you wanted to install a generator you can do it easily.
One mistake I made was thinking a portable AC was going to work to keep the trailer cool and they just don't work, I didn't want to put a factory installed AC on the roof so I had to do the only thing I could and build a false wall and install a window unit there, it worked out OK because I made the wall on wheels so I can open and close it but it would have been better knowing what I know now and have the factory frame in a spot for the window AC.
The only other thing I would do over would be to have a better bathroom with a regular RV toilet and have a holding tank, those are just my personal choices, I installed a drain in my portable toilet so I don't have to dump it but rather uncap it from the outside and then flush it out with a water hose when I get home.
I didn't really think about the grey water until I had taken a shower at the end of the day and some friends came over and the water was all there around the door and steps to the trailer so I knew I need to come up with something else.
So I made a holding tank out of a battery box and I put in a valve so I can catch the water from the shower and then let it drain out really slowly at night so that is less noticeable and could soak into the ground.
I also found a round plastic container at walmart that is used to drain your oil into so if I am parked on pavement I can catch the water in that, so a holding tank would eliminate all this ?

[Erikh425]

Thanks for the info. That is what I was looking for. I have a couple RV scissor jacks that I will bolt on when I get it home. They should help stabilize the trailer fairly well.

jwhite, where in South GA are you located? Maybe we are neighbors, I live South of Brunswick.

[jwhite]

I live just north of Tallahassee

[BC_Explorer]

On my trailer, I had the factory install the side window and the sliding window in the side door. You may want to consider having a 2nd roof vent added at the factory and also consider another 6" height increase.

[Erikh425]

On my trailer, I had the factory install the side window and the sliding window in the side door. You may want to consider having a 2nd roof vent added at the factory and also consider another 6" height increase.

Thanks for the advice. I am going to have them install two windows that are 15x30. I may do a door windo down the road. The second vent is a good idea. Was thinking of maybe just having the brace the roof for it but not install it.

I think I am going to stick with just adding 6". That keeps the roof level near the bug line over the cab of my truck and also puts the interior height at 6'9".

Thanks for the ideas,
Erik

[Gonefishin]

I wish I'd have had them weld on a single folding entry step under the front door. I could still add one, but am not a welder. Guess you can bolt-on too, but haven't looked under there to see where I'd need to drill. Factory installed would have been easier.

Also, would have liked to have a window in the RV door. I'm not going there myself.

[beccae]

Wow, look at the pictures of 15x30 windows on my gallery- Horizontal is very different than vertical. I would have had them install better roof vent covers and fans to go with it.

[Erikh425]

Thanks for all of the replies and info. I think I have the list of needs accounted for and I have an endless list of wants that I will do as time and funds permit. I was just going to go with 2 windows, but the symmetry of 4 looks real nice too

E

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi E,
First, good luck and congrats on getting under way. Also, I consider it a must to think about what you want in YOUR TRAILER when it is finished ... what you can do, what the factory might be better suited to do, and what meets your budget.

I have a 6x10 round roof CT by Look. I go off road and had the factory add an extra frame rail down the middle of the tongue all the way back to the frame cross members. I opted out on pass-though vents and had two roof vents with fans installed instead, and framed for AC upgrade if I decide to add later (I doubt it at this point). I had 2 screened, 15" x 30" horizontal sliding windows installed by the factory. They moved the side door opening farther forward and made it only 28" in lieu of a std. 32". I had them install both a RV screen door and a RV hard door. Because Look build the walls from the inside out, I had them insulate the walls and ceiling (it was also cheaper than doing it myself). I had two lights installed in the overhead and a porch light. In preparation for a propane bottle and heavy battery (I installed these), I had the factory deck the tongue with 1/8" steel plate. I also had the factory add another frame cross member at the rear and put a 1/8" skid plate under that for off-road drags. I also had the axle changed to a straight-axle under the springs and installed larger tires to give me 24" of ground clearance. Now, I am mostly a dry camper and have not yet wired the trailer for 120 vac. I use all 12 vdc LED lighting and estimate I can go 5 days before I need to charge the battery. I carry a small 1250 watt generator and 10 amp charger for those occasions, but I have not had to charge the battery during an outing ... yet. I will be wiring the trailer for 30 amp shore power for the Battery Tender and an inside plug for computer and cell phone chargers; however, I see this being limited to home battery maintenance as few places I go have electricity.


In reality, I believe that you will need to identify and make a list of what you may even think you will want, what you can afford, and what you are willing to do yourself ... then, discuss it, digest it, read and ask questions as you are doing here, and talk to anyone else that may be using the trailer with you ... I planned my trailer for a specific task - prospecting off the beaten path; I took months to design what I thought I wanted, I got in touch with the factory that was going to build the trailer and discussed my ideas with him, and still made numerous changes.


I hope this gives you an idea of what I did to make the trailer fit my needs, wants, and pocketbook ...


Good luck and enjoy ...

[lrrowe]

Hi! John,
I took the time to look at the photos in your gallery.
1. I see why you wanted the added height.i probably will never hit roads like that back here in the east. If I could find one on public land, the forest service would block it. So I will use your height choice as a maximum for me to consider.

2. How did you get the shots of the trailer framing while under construction? Do you live close to the factory, or did you talk your builder into doing this for you. I like it. It gives you an excellent view do what is under the skin and plywood.

3. Like you did for sections of the trailer, I will specify the distance from the front of the trailer and leading edge of the side door. I want to make sure that there is enough room to build a traditional deep cabinet section in the front. I think I will ask for 27 inches. 24 for the cabinet itself, 1 in overhand and 2 inches clearance from the top and door. Of course this depends on how much room is there so as not to interfere with the tires.

Bob

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi Bob,
I answered your questions (in RED) below:

Hi! John,
I took the time to look at the photos in your gallery.
1. I see why you wanted the added height.i probably will never hit roads like that back here in the east. If I could find one on public land, the forest service would block it. So I will use your height choice as a maximum for me to consider.
(JC) The height is about the maximum I would really want to go as towability on the highway is affected -- the flat front trailer adds to the wind dam and resistance, it also adds to the turbulence created by passing or meeting large vehicles like RV's and Semi's. The west still has quite a few old mining and ranching roads and logging roads that are open, but if left to the BLM and the Forest Service, all these roads would be closed!

2. How did you get the shots of the trailer framing while under construction? Do you live close to the factory, or did you talk your builder into doing this for you. I like it. It gives you an excellent view do what is under the skin and plywood.
(JC) I worked with the sales office to put me in touch with the factory manager (they are located about 30 miles from me) and even had plant visits scheduled in the contract, e.g., after the frame was built, before the skin or interior was attached, etc. I contacted the Factory Manager and made arrangement to visit his facility and take photos and keep up with the progress of the trailer. He was actually very helpful and I made several trips out to the plant. I even made a trip before I signed the contract to see what similar trailers were built like and discussed things like electrical, specific layout, and even added the layout drawing to the contract. This relationship helped considerably in getting what I wanted and has helped me locate framing and stud locations for my additions inside (A standard stud-finder works well if in question as to a location of framing)!

3. Like you did for sections of the trailer, I will specify the distance from the front of the trailer and leading edge of the side door. I want to make sure that there is enough room to build a traditional deep cabinet section in the front. I think I will ask for 27 inches. 24 for the cabinet itself, 1 in overhand and 2 inches clearance from the top and door. Of course this depends on how much room is there so as not to interfere with the tires.
(JC) Great planning already and when you get things sketched out, check with your sales office to find out where the trailer will be built and try to arrange a meeting to discuss these changes and anything else, e.g., wiring, lights, additional framing supports, a later AC or heater location, etc. (If the framing is in for any add-ins and skinned over, it is much easier to punch a hole and route the opening than to add the opening and frame it later!) The position of the door was a compromise between the distance from the rear of the cabin to the rear of the door and the distance from the front of the door to the front of the cabin. I needed 74" minimum for a cot behind the door and still wanted room for a small galley cabinet in front of the door -- moving the door forward and making it only 28" (this is actually the same as a narrow door in a house) allowed ample room for both needs.

Bob

The costs for my changes added up, but in reality, they were not beyond a fair price; for example, the pass through ventilation was standard and the company swapped those for one roof vent and added the second (this cost me just one roof vent) _ Even the screen door added only a $100 ... I hope this helps and good luck ...

[lrrowe]

JC,
I guessed you must have had something going with the factory like you did. It has got to be a great thing and for sure lets them know you are a buyer with knowledge and one with high expectations. And an in-process photo is a great thing. Oh and being so close to your builder is defintely a huge plus.

When I go to my dealer, I would like to pull up your photos and advise that I have the same expectations. Then I want to try and make similar contacts. I have already traded a few emails much earlier with the factory, so I am headed in the right direction. For me, the factory is about 4-5 hours away, so a trip, while not out of question, is much more difficult and expensive.

I am with you on making the framing for windows and vents up front. I will try and get that done.

Good job!

Bob

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi Bob,
while trying to think and anticipate needs or changes down the road, is not easy, you are doing great. A 4-5 hour trip to the mfg. may be something you could plan and take the other half (if one exists) with you, and maybe take in lunch. One or two trips is really all that may be needed, any changes or questions may be taken care of via e-mail and/or phone. I sent a lot of e-mail and saved all e-mail sent or received from both the mfg.and sales office.

Just for conversation ... let's say the base trailer is going to cost $2,000 and you are going to add framing changes (window and vents), as well as maybe wiring or whatever, pushing the price up another $1,000 to a total of $3,000! The mfg. should be willing to work with you on any changes and try to accommodate or at least discuss the pro's and con's you are wanting. Some trailer mfgs. would not change anything -- the trailers were mass produced and limited to the model/models sold. This is okay, if they sell what you want, in my case, I wanted changes as previously mentioned...

I visited several trailer sales offices and made a bunch of calls before I settled on a Look, because they were here, I could watch the progress, and the company sales they build the trailers to meet the customers' needs, i.e., they will customize (within reason and safety) any trailer. I am not pushing Look so much as I am saying that you are the customer and you should be able to get most anything you want to the trailer of choice.

For example, take a look at Rainier's post and the company that built her trailer drove a barbed nails into the inner walls to hold the paneling in place --- she had a heck of a time pulling these when she needed to pull the paneling! After reading her post, I insisted that all fasteners would be screws (Thank you for that post Rainier) and even put it in the contract! --- None were used on my unit ...