Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

This is a group of pictures to document the build on my trailer. I am using it to haul all my BBQ stuff to contests and also do some camping.
The lights are fed from a 12vdc power supply. I find the more low profile lights and porch light are made for 12vdc. I have a water connection to the sink with no water heater. There is a 20a 120v breaker panel for power feed. I have a 2000w Generac portable generator when no power is available. There is a porta potti and no black or gray or fresh water tanks.
Hope some of this describes what I built and maybe pays back for all the help and ideas I got from this forum.posting.php?mode=post&f=42#

To add a few comments:
I bought the trailer with upgraded heavier alum walls (0.030"), rear ramp door, side door with RV lock, wall structural members on 16" centers, 3/8" plywood inside walls, taller rock guard on front, 15" tires.

I like the black color -- I know some will say I crazy for the temp in Louisiana.
Removed the inside plywood and added 1 inch styrfoam insulation on walls and ceiling. Added 1/8" plywood to cover ceiling.
Wired for 120vac receptacles.
Added 120vac/12vdc power supply for the lights and added porch light.
Added window on side door side.
Added access door for air conditioning unit (5000 btu).
Added cabinets in nose for small bar type sink and refrigerator.
Will use porta potta toilet. No water supply or waste tanks.

Looks good a lot like the layout of mine

Thanks for sharing.

Looks good, but it won't be done until it smells of pig.

I like your AC treatment.

Nice Job!

You have any more info on the way you mounted the beds you have?

I like your trailer nice work

dpjeansonne, Howdy;

Like the way you staggered the beds for those times when there is a guest
or for the kids. How much weight do you think it (raised bed ), will hold and
how stable is it on the 2X2 legs?

hank

Very creative idea for the AC unit!!

CGRotorhead wrote:You have any more info on the way you mounted the beds you have?

Sorry for not responding earlier but not checking back enough. I hadn't got many questions.

I don't know if you can see it but I used shelving rails and clip brackets that Lowes/Home Depot sells for closets, shelving, etc. I wanted to be able to easily take the entire bed for the access space. This way I can raise and un-clip the bed from the rail and take it out. It is a little hard to do alone but easy for two people.
There is a 4 inch board screwed to the shelf bracket then the 1/2 inch plywood (24x75) are hinged together. This allows it to fold up with the mattress in place.

My frames are 2x2's with 1/2" plywood and 2x2 legs. These are amazingly strong. I am 230 lbs and no problem.

The lower bunk is just high enough to store a tote box under and it works for a seating bench/couch. It has three legs that are hinged to fold out not having to be removed.
The upper bunk is as high as possible for a kid to seat up there and still be able to fold a 28 inch wide mattress. It has one leg and a latter at the other end. It is high enough and wide enough that a fold-up cot fits underneath when we need a third bunk. The upper bunk legs are bolted on and off.

The mattresses are 4 inch foam 28x75. I ordered a queen size foam and cut it to size which was cheaper than two single mattresses. We made our own covers.

I hope this is helpful. If needed I can take more photos for y ou and maybe a sketch.

hankaye wrote:dpjeansonne, Howdy;

Like the way you staggered the beds for those times when there is a guest
or for the kids. How much weight do you think it (raised bed ), will hold and
how stable is it on the 2X2 legs?

hank

The upper bunk is as high as possible for a kid to seat up there and still be able to fold a 28 inch wide mattress. It has one leg on the left end and a latter at the other end. They are bolted with a lap joint and makes three legs so it is very strong. I have seen 2 -3 kids playing and wrestling up there. I am 230 lbs and the lower bunk has three legs which is very strong and stable. We use the lower bunk as a seating bench or couch during the day with 2 -3 people at a time.
The upper bunk is high enough and wide enough that a fold-up cot fits underneath when we need a third bunk. The upper bunk legs are bolted on and off. the lower bunk legs are hinged in place so they don't have to be removed -- just flip down.

The bunk mattress support is a 2x2 frame and cross supports with a 1/2" plywood skin. I wanted it strong but as light as possible. I see people make bunks with 2x4's and 3/4" plywood but I feel that is more than is neccessary.

Hope this answers your question. If not ask for more.
Thanks for looking.

Backwoods Rambler wrote:Very creative idea for the AC unit!!

I got the idea from this forum site and just adapted it to fit my trailer and a/c unit. I remove the unit from the shelf when traveling but some just secure or strap it in place. The slide out tray works well and the folding down shelf is handy to flip it down when not being used.

I was a little concerned that a 5000 btu unit could cool a black trailer in the hottest Louisiana weather. I am glad to say it can handle it easily. At night it will freeze you out.

I think it is the most economical a/c approach and these units a found everywhere so replacements are no problem. Also I didn't want to mount anything on the roof.

Thanks for looking.

dpjeansonne, Howdy;

Thanks for the reply. I saw where you'd mentioned the brackets that you used to attach the
beds to the walls, but, do you have a link to the item or a better photo? Looks like something I
might be investing in a few of...
Did you use carriage bolts for the lap joints or just regular bolts?
Thanks again.

hank

hankaye wrote:dpjeansonne, Howdy;

Thanks for the reply. I saw where you'd mentioned the brackets that you used to attach the
beds to the walls, but, do you have a link to the item or a better photo? Looks like something I
might be investing in a few of...
Did you use carriage bolts for the lap joints or just regular bolts?
Thanks again.

hank

These are the bracket and rails (or similar) that I used. Purchased from Lowes. The bracket is rated for 170 lbs, I cut the bracket the width of my ~ 4" board and bolted them together so the board and bracket are one. I cut the rails to short 12 " lengths and screwed into the trailer metal side members. Then the board is hinged to the bunk part.
All of my 2x2 framing for the bunk was lap jointed, glued and screwed. The 2x2 legs was "L" cut to form an offset for the bunk to rest on. Then I used a 1/4" bolt to secure the let to the bunk framing. If this not clear I can take another photo and try to post or send to your email if you send me a message.