Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

New project

6x12 TA V-nose Cargo Craft trailer (with electric brakes on all wheels)
6'6" height
RV door with screen door and sliding window in door (bar lock going across entire door was added)
Barn doors
AC hatch on driver's side (up high towards the front)
4 ladder racks
2 roof vents with 3rd space (center of trailer) beefed up for possible future rooftop AC
straight axle
RV folding step

Brand new trailer and this was found when the plywood was removed from below the windows





Removed the windows




Found this




now should work




Also found there must have been 2 different assemblers - the driver's side was much worse with very little silicon caulking under the window frame and both weep holes plugged (there was a LOT of water still in the frame). The passenger's side had the drain plug removed and a LOT more caulk (no water in the frame). I cleaned both frames, used wire brush, then painted with Rustoleum primer. Reinstalled window with butyl rubber tape (I think).

Lesson - check all your windows to ensure the weep holes are open

That one looks like it has good potential from the start. There were some other posts on here about "new" trailers with rust showing when the walls were removed. I've never had mine off, or my factory windows out, so I guess my fingers are crossed that there's no nightmares behind the walls. I know they're sold and marketed as just "cargo" trailers for hauling, but its kind of disturbing to see how some of these companies are sloppily throwing the trailers together. They're not that complicated, so you'd think they could screw one together with a little attention to detail and not use rusted parts.

Jim (?),

Agreed. I think the rust actually came from the water leaking since the weep holes had not been unplugged. The passenger side had very little rust but had 1 of 2 weep holes unplugged (I unplugged the 2nd one). I will discuss with the sales folks as they can double-check the windows before sending out to customer.

I plan on .....
* putting about 300 watts of solar panels up on the ladder racks
* putting LED flood lights (2) on both sides
* putting LED warm white light strips along the top of both sides
* putting LED flood light on the nose to help with un/hitching at night
* putting batteries in floor between the axles
* putting window AC unit on the driver's side AC hatch, up high, was beefed up at factory for same so will hang a frame for it (Republic of Texas can get warm)
* having drop down side beds, twin
* building cross-wise a bunk near the top for my kid
* will have a marine toilet (Nature's head that I am pulling out of a bigger trailer)
* will build cabinets (base and overhead) as so many here have done (hope I can come close to the quality)

Multipurpose - but one criteria was a Honda Odyssey and Toyota RAV4 being able to pull (and stop - has TA electric brakes), primary TV is F150 SCrew, Ecoboost

Good start so far. I just put a Prodigy Brake controller in my Tundra, because of the double axle/brakes.

Bob

Observation - found rust again under the AC door. And this after having pulled the trim, sanding, and painting Rust-O-Leum......so, pulled the hatch cover itself and found a poor job of sealing.....they used caulk only.....guess CT manufacturers haven't heard of butyl rubber tape......

Good job on checking out your "foundation". Those could have been much nastier problems later on.

I would send the pictures to the manufacturer too. Tell them that it gives them some poor publicity to send out shoddy work. Internet forums like this one have a lot of influence on what people buy.

Cindy,

Already done.....we'll see whoever's next......

Thanks to all the folks who gave insights on insulation....... I am doubling up on the insulation (two ¾") with a thermal break with 1x4 boards.....

Did you glue the inner layer to the skin or press fit?

press fit. The plan is to replace the plywood over the insulation/1x4s then cover.......haven't figured out what I want the interior to look like.....maybe beadboard....

If possible I would try and get a few screws through the plywood into the metal frame. The plywood provides much of the rigidity to the structure.

1x won't do much to control racking.

I'm following along as mine is also a 6x12V.

So, before I get to far into it.....would I do better to replace the plywood on the metal posts, THEN add another layer of insulation with having 1x4 for mounting cabinets??

Are you planning a layer over the plywood? If so, that's what I would recommend as you are replacing the plywood back as designed. In practice it might not make much difference but the strength comes from the plywood.