Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

So I am 38, I have raced rc cars since I was 12 and I have wanted an enclosed pit trailer to take to races for a long time. So after alot of research I decided on a stealth 18x7. It is a v nose with lots of options. I have put my deposit on it and I'm waiting on my build sheet from the factory. Maybe you guys can give me some input before this is totally final.

Here are my options
SPECIAL EDITION PACKAGE 7x18 trailer $4345
16" OC WALL STUDS
16" FLOOR CROSS MEMBERS
3/4" RAIN BLOCK FLOOR - WATERPROOF
.030 EXTERIOR ALUMINUM - ANY COLOR
SCREW LESS EXTERIOR
STAINLESS STEEL DOOR HARDWARE
ROOF VENT
TAPERED V-NOSE
24" STONEGUARD
Torsion axles $380
2 15x 30 windows $250 total
white vinyl walls ceiling and checkerboard vinyl floor $945
extra roof vent $50
flash package $400
2-TONE COLOR WITH BRIGHT DIVIDER STRIP
ALUMINUM WHEELS WITH 15" RADIAL TIRES
ramp package $300
RAMP DOOR
FLUSH LOCK ON SIDE DOOR WITH BAR LOCK
REAR STABILIZER JACKS
4" ALUMINUM DOOR HOLD BACK
7ft interior hieght $300
brace and wire for A/C
DELUXE 110 VOLT PACKAGE: 650.00
30 AMP BREAKER BOX
(4) 4FT FLUORESCENT LIGHTS
(4) 110 VOLT INTERIOR RECEPTS
(2) 3WAY - 110 VOLT WALL SWITCHES
DELUXE TWIST LOCK PLUG & 25' CORD

He made the total $7500 out the door and I was able to get it within 30 miles from my house.

$7500 was my budget but I feel on the fence not getting insulation. And if I want to insulate myself then I have to pull all the stuff they installed back out
The insulation available from the factory is r6 bubble silver type insulation. I plan on putting a 13.5k ac roof mount in it, so my only concern is keeping it cool on hot summer days. The door will be used alot, and I might even have freezor door plastic stripping in it to allow people in and out quick... So I am not sure if insualtion would make much difference. My outside will be white and tan, so no black. Anyways insulation is $500 for the r6 bubble type, what are your thoughts on adding it or skipping it or doing it myself later.

The plans for the trailer are
I am adding a 100ah 12volt batter with 40 amp powersupply converter a pd9245cv installed. I am going to do a fuse box as well all in the front. Tons of led strip accent lighting with music control and then also some 12v dome lights. My plan is if I have no electric I can use the 12v system to charge my cars and run some lights maybe a small stereo. I also have a small inverter if I want to run a radio or something off of.

I will be installing the ac and I have enough generator to power everything 5400watts so if needed we will run the generator. The ac will be added later but I figured that can be installed without taking all the walls out.

I am going to install 16' x 30" workbench along the drivers side wall for 3-4 guys to pit out of, and various peg board and shelving on the walls.
There will be a cabinet built in the front v with a simple sink into a 5 gallon bucket and a water tank on the counter till I can figure out a simple faucet with a 5-10 gallon resevior.

I might install some wall mounted bunk beds. eventually, there will be a tv, an xbox one, and killer sound system that should rattle the walls off. there will be a mini fridge and some type of cabinent in the front to hold some household goods all built into the V nose.

I have alot of 12v wiring to do, so some access behind the walls would be nice. I guess my question is getting wood walls and skipping the vinyl, but having the insulation added behind the walls. to kinda offset the cost. but I like that factory fit and finish on the walls and ceiling... I am also thinking about adding to the budget if I must to put the insulation in it... But I do have more time than money to be able to add foam insulation and finishing the walls myself. I am all over the place here....

Let me know your guys thoughts, pics and design plans will get added as things progress, I want this to be the most intense pit trailer around. I really don't know how to do things any other way, lol

Thanks for reading your input is appreciated.

one other thougt is getting spring axles instead of torsion and getting the insulation, but I have been told to get the torsion axles from a reliable source. But I have also read they are a big cost if you have to fix them

Seems like a good price! I'm curious about the "real" size. The box measurement not the box+V. Make sure you know correct size. I looked for months and found dealers use certain key words to sell a trailer. IE: 7x14 extra height. Isn't it's a 12 foot plus 2'V and the extra height is deception too. I told a dealer I had cycles but wanted "toy hauler" so anything over 5' high was extra height sales pitch. If I said 6'6 (interior) they'd show me a 6' it measures 6'6" outside. I looked a for sale by owner. He'd only had it a few months told me it was 6'"6 he was 6' tall and no head room. I pointed this out to him and measured the outside height at 6'6". He said I did my home work when I bought this and still learned something today. I noticed lack of clearance for an awning.
Torsion axles do give a smoother ride. I have leaf, I know how to change them if needed.
I shopped around and couldn't find what I wanted. I was told to order and pickup from factory. Pay in full and once built it was yours.This didn't seem like a good idea to me. Any issue Id have to return to factory. I was told an aluminum Trailer all would be 16 on centers and aluminum skin would be the "thicker" siding. So don't pay extra for 16 and siding.
I did get a trailer it's not what I though I'd get. But having looked at hundreds it's better built but not perfect. It's an American Hauler 7x12x7 single axle with brakes.

this is truly 7' tall on the interior they are 6'3" before the 12" additional height. Also its a true 18' plus the additional vnose space. I did a lot of research and I live in cincinnati. I priced trailers from michigan to florida and even going straight to the factory in georgia wasn't going save me much if anything. I do have to pick it up 4 hours away in indiana by elkhart and that saves me $350. I figured on a saturday I will go up early and bring it home or take a day off of work if need be.

I am really excited to get this done. I found some 3/4" mdf that is special order at menards with black veneer attached so I am going to do my pit tables, cabinets and everything out of it. And I will trim it all out in brushed alum angle to give that black and silver look inside.

I can't wait to get all the stuff built, the led's wired up and music playing. It will be alot of fun

Glad you have exact measurements. The dealer mine was bought from called me twice with exact measurements ( that he took) because he knew of other dealers deceptions. I think if Id ordered from him Id have gotten exactly what I ordered too. But I took what he had on lot.
Please post up your pics when you get it.

i will for sure

I decided to go ahead and get the insulation put in at the factory, If I'm spending 7500 what 7950, lol might as well get what I want. I got to see and make changes to the build sheet today. Hopefully tommorow it will get scheduled.

Bubble insulation is basically worthless without an air space. If they are just putting it between the walls you might as well put aluminum foil.

First look in here at this topic. abqlloyd is bang on. Bubble type insulation, usually foil faced, is a sometimes good radiant barrier form of insulation when there is an air gap on one side. No air gap, no sense in using it. The trailer mfg is not the only one who has been fooled on that. Foil faced bubble insulation manufacturers make extravagent claims that in the real world can not be backed up under all conditions where the bubble wrap is used. Save those $$ for real insulation; foam.

If the manufacturer attaches the bubble insulation to the outside wall then add the plywood there would be an air gap and it would work well correct? Also there are many threads on this board where people are using the bubble insulation with success. I am contacting the manufacturer to see exactly how it is to be installed.

Thanks for the advise I am going to check into further and I might cancel it from the build if I don't feel warm and fuzzy about what the manufacturer tells me.

-Mike

Ask them for the brand they plan to install and a cross-section of their install.

Most manufacturers have a website with install instructions used to test their product and make the claim of R-xx. The most common big-box product requires a minimum of 1"of dead air space AND sheathing AND drywall to complete their "system". By itself it has almost no insulation.

He we are coming back from Elkhart, IN






Now onto the inside, we have only done the tv and stereo, pit table and the battery. I did 12v taps on the pit table as well

bigemike wrote:He we are coming back from Elkhart, IN






Now onto the inside, we have only done the tv and stereo, pit table and the battery. I did 12v taps on the pit table as well

Very nice!!!!

thanks, I wrapped all the legs of the wood with automotive carpet, and used aluminum trim over the melamine 3/4" board. Everything is coming along, I left room in the back for my air mattress and the storage bins in the front are rubbermaid from menards and they made a super quick and easy cabinet. There will be alot more to do and I will post some pics and videos as it goes along.

I am going to work on some shelving this weekend and I'm also going to make a fold down workbench for the rear soon