Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I suppose it is time to share my project. I have been lurking and gathering information from all the great builds on this forum. About 3 months ago I stumbled across a deal that was too good to pass up. My neighbor had begun a conversion to a 7x18 Pace cargo trailer that he bought new in 2010. He had used it for hunting and then decided to go with a full blown, 40 ft. 5th wheel for traveling. He had installed a toilet and 40 gal holding tank in the trailer, as well as a wall mounted AC in the front wall. He also had make shift beds and storage that were minimal but functional.

I have thought about converting a cargo trailer for many years. I have another project, a 1957 356 Speedster replica, that I am building and thought that it would be nice to have a toy hauler that could carry my car and double as a camper. My neighbor made me a great deal on this trailer, so I put the Speedster on hold and began a conversion on the spur of the moment! My wife and kids accuse me of always having too many projects and I think they may be right. I have made a lot of progress on the trailer and hope to be finished (if it is ever truly "finished") in another month or so.

The two things that I started with from the previous owner was the AC and the toilet. They were in acceptable locations and I developed plans around them. I chose to not have an inside shower, only an outside shower and use the facilities at the campgrounds. I will have a queen size bed across the back of the trailer that will be mounted on vertical e-track. This will allow me to raise the bed to the ceiling and my Speedster will go in underneath. I will also have a futon along one wall for seating and an additional bed, it will be left in the garage when hauling the car. I have 13 1/2 feet from the back doors to the bathroom wall, barely enough to push the car in and tie it down. I will build/buy ramps for the back since it is barn door style. No cooking inside, only a microwave which will be above the AC and a mini fridge. I will need 120V to power the appliances. I have installed a convertor and will also have 12v available for lights, etc. We intend it use it more for a weekend getaway cabin, than we do for hauling the car.

I will follow-up with pictures of my current progress even though I'm not really good at keeping track with pictures, but I do have some of the highlights.

James

This was what it looked like when I decided to buy it and begin my conversion.

The first thing was to strip the inside, remove the 3/8 plywood walls and install insulation. I used the pink foam board insulation in the walls and ceiling. 3/4" in the walls and 1 1/4" total (3/4 + 1/2) in the ceiling. Then I installed furring strips in the ceiling for the 1/4 luan plywood which is painted white.



I installed 5 windows that I purchased from Tri State Surplus in Michigan. They are surplus RV windows. The guys at Tri State were very helpful and have great prices!



The inside is coming along slowly. The bathroom is front left, with a toilet, storage cabinet and power converter. I have a 2.5 gal water heater under the sink, 120VAC. The microwave will be in a cabinet above the AC. A folding table will be on the right side, under the large window. The futon will be on the left side, under the window and the overhead storage cabinet.

JRinTX, Howdy;

Looks like your off to a really good start.

hank

What are you going to use to pull this thing?

It looks like you have a nice project going there. I really like the cabin feel of the interior.

rebapuck wrote:What are you going to use to pull this thing?

I use my GMC Sierra 1500. I have the 5.3L with towing package. Also have brakes, very important!

aggie79 wrote:It looks like you have a nice project going there. I really like the cabin feel of the interior.

Thank you and Gig 'em! My youngest son is graduating in December.

A few more pictures of recent progress. Getting close...just in time for fall camping!

My slatted bed, mounted on vertical E-track.



Back doors are going to get an RV porthole in each door, and rework the latches that were installed by PO.

I love your bed!

Did you purchase it, or make it from scratch? Do you have any drawings for it? How's the weight on it?

I was going to get a bed frame made out of metal, and band it to two 2X4's and use the e-tracks.

I was also going to connect cabinets up high to the e-track with the 2X4 connectors for easy removal. What do you think?

What did you use for your walls? My wife loves it?

Thank you,
John

Great work! How will it be to move that bed up/down when necessary? I guess you just take the slats off and move each crossbeam one at a time to set up for sleeping or travel? Nice clean design.

Looking really good!!

I really like the woodwork and the roominess - looks wider than 7'!

Can't wait to see the finished pictures!

Thanks for sharing.

Sorry for the slow response!

akula1 wrote:I love your bed!

Did you purchase it, or make it from scratch? Do you have any drawings for it? How's the weight on it?

I was going to get a bed frame made out of metal, and band it to two 2X4's and use the e-tracks.

2Tornadoes wrote:Great work! How will it be to move that bed up/down when necessary? I guess you just take the slats off and move each crossbeam one at a time to set up for sleeping or travel? Nice clean design.

I bought the slats from IKEA. The frame is built from 2x4's, with a 1x6 on each side to contain the mattress. The width of my trailer is about 80", just right for the length of a queen mattress. I made the width of the frame 62" (inside the side boards) to trap the slats and hold the mattress. I also added a 2x4 down the center, with a 1x2 on each side, to give the slats a center support. I put a 3/4" x 3/4" strip down the middle of the 2x4 to trap the slats in the center. I hope this makes sense, if not, ask more questions and I can try to explain better.

The slats weigh about 15 lbs. The frame is another 20 lbs. The mattress is a hybrid memory foam over inner springs and weighs about 80 lbs. So, I have about 115-120 lbs. My wife and I can lift each end, using the hand holes, and adjust the e-track brackets. The brackets can easily be moved 2 notches at a time. This way we can "walk" the bed up or down easily. I may look at rigging up a pulley system to make it easier and a one man job.

akula1 wrote:I was also going to connect cabinets up high to the e-track with the 2X4 connectors for easy removal. What do you think?

The connectors attach securely to the e-track. However, they are not very tight. With a static load resting in them, like the bed, they are very secure. But I would be concerned that a cabinet may not be as rigid and may move around too much.

akula1 wrote:What did you use for your walls? My wife loves it?

Thank you,
John

The walls are just 1/4" paneling with a horizontal cedar board pattern. I screwed the paneling over the 3/8" plywood that came in the trailer.

Thanks for all the comments and compliments!

James

I bought the slats from IKEA. The frame is built from 2x4's, with a 1x6 on each side to contain the mattress. The width of my trailer is about 80", just right for the length of a queen mattress. I made the width of the frame 62" (inside the side boards) to trap the slats and hold the mattress. I also added a 2x4 down the center, with a 1x2 on each side, to give the slats a center support. I put a 3/4" x 3/4" strip down the middle of the 2x4 to trap the slats in the center. I hope this makes sense, if not, ask more questions and I can try to explain better.

Thank you for your response. I will be stealing your idea. I am sort of confused on how the double set of slates attach together, and how the center is supported to the frame edge. Pictures of the underside in the center and ends would help.

Do you think there is room to make a 1" thick headboard to slip over the 2X4 supports?

Thank you very much!

akula1 wrote:Thank you for your response. I will be stealing your idea. I am sort of confused on how the double set of slates attach together, and how the center is supported to the frame edge. Pictures of the underside in the center and ends would help.

Do you think there is room to make a 1" thick headboard to slip over the 2X4 supports?

Thank you very much!

The two sets of slats do not attach together. They are independent and I built the frame to trap each individual set. I also screwed the end slat on each set to the frame.

Here is a drawing that should help explain how the frame is built.