Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

i just purchased a 2011 Wells Cargo V-nose 7 X 14. It is in great shape all around. I have to move from Utah to Arizona, and then the conversion begins.

On my inspection I noticed surface rust along a lot of the bottom, should I jack it up and scrape, and paint, or take it somewhere and have it removed, and have the bottom sealed?

Second question is, I'm planning my layout, and trying to plan my electrical layout. Do you notch the interior wall to run the wiring in the walls? Or do you drill through the metal support beam?

Thanks!

There are a lot of products that convert rust to a sealed paintable finish. Might be a easier way to take care of your rust than scrapping.

John:

When I bought my CT, I removed the interior plywood so I could insulate. I installed 1" rigid insulation between the aluminum ribs. Then I added 3" wide strips of 1/2 plywood to each rib as a thermal break. I added 1/2"rigid insulation between the strips. I ran my 12V wiring in the 1/2" insulation space. I then re-attached the interior plywood, screwing it to the plywood strips.

Because I converted our 7x16 V-nose CT to a travel trailer, I ran my 110v wiring on the surface of the interior plywood (inside cupboards, etc.) and/or through the interior walls.

I started to document my build but did not update my post. My build website: http://www.tusker-international.com/1-trlr.html

Hope this helps!

Thanks for the input and tips.

I will check out your build.

I went a similar route. Rigid foam between the joists, then 1/2 NM electrical conduit, and 3/4 insulation board atop the the face of the walls, then a second 3/4 layer of foam to cover it all with occasional 1x4's where I need to hang/ attach things to the wall. (1x is actually 3/4" and 1/2 NM tubing is roughly 3/4" in exterior diameter so it all flushes up). Good luck.

Cheapest, easiest and least expensive fix:

Paint NAVAL JELLY (any hardware store) on the rust. Let dry and paint with oil-based enamel. GREAT FOAM in a spray can (polyurethane) is even more durable and waterproof over time, but messy and it expands. You can knock the expansion down with a stiff brush or a putty knife while it´s still gooey. Paint peels on it.

FWIW,

Prem

WOW , I'm sorta really amazed about 4-5 people here are now using the OTTCT , double wall, floor, ceiling insulation method.

Prior the standard was 3/4" to 1" walls and ceilings only. Now we are up to 2"+ walls, floor & ceiling. I'm still not seeing to much about doors yet ?

I'm working on top secret V3.0 now - I did some beta testing already with excellent out of the park results. The day may come where we will all be driving around in a trailer , heated and cooled with 500 watts in solar on dare I say lithium batteries & mini splits 20 years from now

Ottct

akula1, Howdy;

Prem wrote:Cheapest, easiest and least expensive fix:

Paint NAVAL JELLY (any hardware store) on the rust. Let dry and paint with oil-based enamel. GREAT FOAM in a spray can (polyurethane) is even more durable and waterproof over time, but messy and it expands. You can knock the expansion down with a stiff brush or a putty knife while it´s still gooey. Paint peels on it.

FWIW,

Prem

Prem, IMO, left out a step, you need to stop the Navel Jelly's rust eating action. That requires water.
Wash it off completely, allow the surface to dry ...... then proceed as he recommends.
The Navel Jelly also imparts a protecting coating (my experience), and allows an excellent bonding
surface for the new paint or apply the "Great Foam" directly to the surface. Each layer only bonds
to the surface it touches. Poorly applied preparations don't stay stuck very long or well.

hank

hank

Overthetop, and all the others, these will definitely help me.

Do you notice a significant difference between the single 1" rigid insulation, compared to doing the 1 1/2"+ insulation?

What would you do different now with your build?

Thank you!

I have between 2-5" insulation, cooling my 7 x 18 trailer with around 200 watts per hour of run time. One 1/6 to 1/8 power that standard rv uses.

PS excellent job on your build

Re your question re 1" insulation vs 1 1/2".....and why I went with 1 1/2".

I knew from reading this forum that just adding insulation between the 1" ribs was not going to solve the problem of screw heads sweating - no thermal break. So I knew I was going add a thermal break (the 1/2" plywood strips on the ribs). It was a no-brainer to add the extra 1/2" rigid insulation. By the way, I sealed all the gaps with metal-foil tape.

I've had no problems with condensation. And the odd time the temperature has dipped, our little electric heater has no problem raising the inside temperature quickly.

Hope this helps!

Hank,

Naval jelly is an acid. City tap water is an acid.

I let the naval jelly dry then wire brush it if it is thick in places and then paint it. The dried stuff is bonded to the metal. I call that primer. And it´s pourous, so even the oil-based enamel sticks to it longer. (But I sold those trailers. )

Nothing is forever. . .except an all-aluminum trailer.

Aluminum corrodes but last a lot longer than steel.

akula1 wrote:i just purchased a 2011 Wells Cargo V-nose 7 X 14. It is in great shape all around. I have to move from Utah to Arizona, and then the conversion begins.

Congratulations! I hope to join the CTC club in the future. Please post lots of pics for us wanabees.

akula1 wrote:On my inspection I noticed surface rust along a lot of the bottom, should I jack it up and scrape, and paint, or take it somewhere and have it removed, and have the bottom sealed?

Assuming that your rust is primarily surface rust, I'd lightly wire-brush the frame and then use a rust converter product system like POR-15 or Rust Bullet. I used Rust Bullet on my teardrop frame and it is a great - although a little expensive - product.

Surface rust in the desert? We call that "Patina". Adds a certain Je ne sais quoi. Just charge a little more if/when you sell.
Don't sweat the petty things, pet the sweaty things.
Just sayin' .......