Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Has anyone purchased a CT from "USA Cargo Trailers" out of Douglass, GA? They apparently ship nation wide. If so, what did you think about the trailer itself and the company? Was your experience "good, bad or ugly", would you purchase from them again? Any suggestions?

All GA trailers are the same.........cheap, cheap, cheap.....exactly what most use. They are 95% made by LARK....ur company just markets them.

OverTheTopCargoTrailer wrote:All GA trailers are the same.........cheap, cheap, cheap.....exactly what most use. They are 95% made by LARK....ur company just markets them.

I'm aware that there are several GA trailer companies, but to say that "All GA trailers are the same" seems to be a ridiculous stand alone statement. Just my own limited research has revealed that many of the companies are different in what they offer and what they are willing to customize for the customer.

"cheap, cheap, cheap"... What exactly is your specific claim? Are the GA trailers the king of "reasonably priced trailers" or do you mean that they are the "king of sub-par materials" used for their trailers?

..."ur company just markets them" Are you insinuating that I am associated with one or any of the GA trailer companies? If so, you are misguided. I'm in the market to purchase an enclosed cargo trailer with the hope of converting it into a camper. I am in no way associated with any trailer companies!

If you have any specific insights into the original post, I would welcome them.

I can't speak from experience, but I have been looking into doing a CT conversion for some time, and have found a wide range in prices on cargo trailers. There probably is a "you get what you paid for" aspect of the pricing. I wanted an all aluminum trailer, but can't justify the expense, so if/when I order my "must haves" are:

1. Torsion axle suspension with brakes
2. 16" o.c. spacing of ceiling, wall, and floor framing with preferably square tubing for floor and wall framing
3. Screw-less 0.030 exterior aluminum sidewalls and front
4. Scissor type stabilizer jacks at all four corners
5. Extended trailer tongue
6. Access doors in the sizes and locations that I want
7. RV door with screen door (in the location and height above floor that I want)
8. Framing for windows and roof vents in the location that I want (for installation by me at a later time)

If possible, you may want to see if the facility will allow a tour of the plant so that you can see trailers under construction.

aggie79 wrote:... have found a wide range in prices on cargo trailers. ...my "must haves" are:
1. Torsion axle suspension with brakes
2. 16" o.c. spacing of ceiling, wall, and floor framing with preferably square tubing for floor and wall framing
3. Screw-less 0.030 exterior aluminum sidewalls and front
4. Scissor type stabilizer jacks at all four corners
5. Extended trailer tongue
6. Access doors in the sizes and locations that I want
7. RV door with screen door (in the location and height above floor that I want)
8. Framing for windows and roof vents in the location that I want (for installation by me at a later time)
If possible, you may want to see if the facility will allow a tour of the plant so that you can see trailers under construction.

I also have noticed a wide range of pricing among trailers...
On the screw-less aluminum sidewalls, how are the sidewalls attached? (welded?) They do look a lot nicer!
The framing/bracing for optional windows, would definitely be a plus in my book.
As far as the facility tour is concerned, that obviously would be wonderful if I lived within a reasonable drive. I don't so I'm in contact with one facility that does deliver reasonable close to my neck of the woods, to see if I might be able to inspect any trailer that they have made (regardless of the size).
I've read where many on this forum have chosen or desire to go the aluminum route. I can see and understand many of the benefits, however I plan on going the steel route even though it will be heavier and have the rust factor.

I hope to get all my "ducks in a row" where I can confidently make an order sometime early spring with the desire of it being built and used by next summer and early fall. As much as I enjoy tent camping, I'm looking forward to retiring the tent! :-)

FlyBye wrote:I also have noticed a wide range of pricing among trailers...
On the screw-less aluminum sidewalls, how are the sidewalls attached? (welded?) They do look a lot nicer!

The sidewall aluminum panels are held on with Very High Bond (VHB) tape. It's like the double-sided foam tape that you get at the hardware store but thinner. The tape is applied to the framing and adheres the aluminum sheeting. Each successive sheet overlaps the prior sheet. It doesn't sound like it would hold but it is a method used to skin buses, passenger trains, etc., so it must be durable.

FlyBye wrote:The framing/bracing for optional windows, would definitely be a plus in my book.

Although I can weld (kind of, sort of) I don't trust my welding in close proximity to the aluminum sheeting. The downside of having the factory frame the opening is that you must get exact dimensions of what you want them to frame for and you must know exactly where you want the framing. This can be tricky if you don't have the windows and vents "in hand" before you order the trailer. If you do it yourself, you can adjust accordingly and on the fly. Others may disagree, but one option that I have considered to frame the openings myself is to use angle iron "clips" and structural pop rivets and/or self-tapping screws to frame the openings.

FlyBye wrote:As far as the facility tour is concerned, that obviously would be wonderful if I lived within a reasonable drive. I don't so I'm in contact with one facility that does deliver reasonable close to my neck of the woods, to see if I might be able to inspect any trailer that they have made (regardless of the size).

That's what I have done. Some retailers seem to be willing to help with a custom order; others aren't interested at all. All, though, have let me crawl around, over and under the trailers to take a look at them.

FlyBye wrote:I've read where many on this forum have chosen or desire to go the aluminum route. I can see and understand many of the benefits, however I plan on going the steel route even though it will be heavier and have the rust factor.

All aluminum is certainly the Cadillac of cargo trailers. Weight savings is the primary benefit. It's hard to get an apples-to-apples comparison, but I figure the weight savings is about 300-400 pounds for an all aluminum compared to a steel frame, aluminum skinned trailer.

FlyBye wrote:I hope to get all my "ducks in a row" where I can confidently make an order sometime early spring with the desire of it being built and used by next summer and early fall. As much as I enjoy tent camping, I'm looking forward to retiring the tent! :-)

A few years back we moved from tent camping to teardrop camping and it was a huge upgrade. Now we're looking for something with an indoor toilet and shower and a place we can stay during inclement weather. (We actually prefer to go camping in the winter when most of the state parks here are little used.)

I have an all aluminum screw less sidewalls. Mine isn't attached with tape but with a glue. Looks similar to a gorilla glue.
I do not have torsion springs, I have no experience with them. If I need to replace a leaf spring I can.
As far as a brand of trailer - pick one you like. I looked at a lot of trailers. I saw crap welds in many different "brands". I saw construction that was sup par, from some to. I've stated before I'm brand loyal not because I believe it to be the best for everyone but because it is what I know and the best for me. I've also stated that when I was looking I had to pay close attention to the sizing of cargo trailers. Some manufacture's and dealers measure the "box" as size of trailer. Others measure the length of the "box and v" as a size measurement. I also wanted at least 6'6" interior height. Many for sale said 6" extra height, but not the measurement. Well I found that this measurement wasn't necessarily 6'6". Because some measure from the out sidewall to the seam or lip of roof. I looked at a very nice used trailer. The man told me he had bought a 6'6" heigh trailer. Yet his head almost touched ceiling. And he wasn't 6'5"!
I didn't order because of some people posting issues that you'd have to drive to factory for fixes.
I'd shop around see what makes you like and buy what you like.

FlyBye, Howdy;

I went to several Trailer lots and no one chased me away ...
perhaps they figured if I saw something I liked I might buy from them.
I looked at Continentals, Wells Cargo, Haulmark, Interstate,
and Larks. Liked what I saw the most and went with an Interstate
Pro series. Liked the idea of Leaf springs, some will expound
the greatness of torsion but they are made by humans and will
fail at some point ... easier to fix a leaf spring (IMO). I also like the
screwed on sides for repairs as well, one never truly knows ...

Whatever you chose I wish you the best of luck with.

hank

I purchased a NEO NAVR 7x16x7 from their New Brunswick, Canada dealer. I did a lot of research into brands, etc. and decided on NEO cause they sold all aluminum trailers. I was after light weight to start. My trailer weighed, on the truck scales, 1870 lb when I got it home.

In answer to your specific points, as best I can:

1. Torsion axle suspension with brakes

From what I have read, weight on torsion axles has to equal or as close to it as possible. Much different than springs.

2. 16" o.c. spacing of ceiling, wall, and floor framing with preferably square tubing for floor and wall framing

NEO uses 1" square tubing in walls and ceiling, 2x4 and 2x6 (I think) in floor. They also use REAL screws to attach interior 3/8" plywood!

3. Screw-less 0.030 exterior aluminum sidewalls and front

Nice - no screws to eventually leak!

4. Scissor type stabilizer jacks at all four corners

Extra cost option I ordered - do not remember how much - I only got them on the rear. Been thinking of adding 2 to the front now we're using our converted trailer as intended.

5. Extended trailer tongue

This wasn't an option for me but it would have been nice. 2' V-nose doesn't leave a lot of space for anything, but I'd rather have the interior space than a flat front!

6. Access doors in the sizes and locations that I want

Just make sure your plans don't change and you end up with doors in the wrong place!

7. RV door with screen door (in the location and height above floor that I want).

Good if you can get it. I bought my trailer "off the lot" so had to take what I got.

8. Framing for windows and roof vents in the location that I want (for installation by me at a later time)

Ditto my comments on #6 above.

If possible, you may want to see if the facility will allow a tour of the plant so that you can see trailers under construction.

Nice idea but I didn't even think about doing this.

Hope this helps.

OverTheTopCargoTrailer wrote:All GA trailers are the same.........cheap, cheap, cheap.....exactly what most use.
They are 95% made by LARK....ur company just markets them.

BRO.....

"USA Cargo Trailers" is most likely an agent "reseller" for LARK.....

P.S. NOBODY ships nationwide... @ $1.50 a mile it would cost $5,000 to Cali & $7,000 to alaska
you gotta be pretty dumb to pay that for a $3,500 GA trailer

A CHEAP 7 x 16 is $3500 ..... a GOOD ONE is $10,000

OverTheTopCargoTrailer wrote:

OverTheTopCargoTrailer wrote:All GA trailers are the same.........cheap, cheap, cheap.....exactly what most use.
They are 95% made by LARK....ur company just markets them.

BRO.....

"USA Cargo Trailers" is most likely an agent "reseller" for LARK.....

P.S. NOBODY ships nationwide... @ $1.50 a mile it would cost $5,000 to Cali & $7,000 to alaska
you gotta be pretty dumb to pay that for a $3,500 GA trailer

A CHEAP 7 x 16 is $3500 ..... a GOOD ONE is $10,000

I'm not the OP but this post and the earlier one are RUDE. I'm sure I'm in the minority but there isn't any reason for either post. Other than bragging that you can afford a 10,00 dollar trailer before mods. And your believe that your chosen brand of CT it the best and therefor everyone else is dumb.
I'm glad I'm in the dumb club, we're simply nice people.

I purchased a Diamond CT made in Douglas and am pleased with it.

I've converted it and used it a couple of seasons in the S.E. US. Pulled it to the mountains of NC a couple of times and the hills of west Alabama. No issues. None. Hauled cargo in it( moved my son fro m Tallahassee,Fl to Mobile,Al 2 trips) no problems.

Yes it was reasonably priced and I'm good with that.

I think I got what I paid for.

hankaye wrote:Liked the idea of Leaf springs, some will expound
the greatness of torsion but they are made by humans and will
fail at some point ... easier to fix a leaf spring (IMO).

hank

Who makes leaf springs...humans?

On a more serious note, unless you use your CT conversion as a toy hauler, you'll never come close to the axle rating of a tandem axle CT. My reasons for my preference for torsion axles are:

1. I have had good experience with (Dexter) torsion axles.
2. Torsion axles provide a smoother ride than leaf spring axles especially during a minimally loaded condition
3. Torsion axles by nature dampen axle movement when encountering dips, potholes, etc. whereas a leaf spring axle will bounce and rock for a considerably longer time.

My 2 cents worth.

Take care,
Tom

aggie 79, Howdy;

aggie79 wrote:

hankaye wrote:Liked the idea of Leaf springs, some will expound
the greatness of torsion but they are made by humans and will
fail at some point ... easier to fix a leaf spring (IMO).

hank

Who makes leaf springs...humans?

On a more serious note, unless you use your CT conversion as a toy hauler, you'll never come close to the axle rating of a tandem axle CT. My reasons for my preference for torsion axles are:

1. I have had good experience with (Dexter) torsion axles.
2. Torsion axles provide a smoother ride than leaf spring axles especially during a minimally loaded condition
3. Torsion axles by nature dampen axle movement when encountering dips, potholes, etc. whereas a leaf spring axle will bounce and rock for a considerably longer time.

My 2 cents worth.

Take care,
Tom

True leaves are made by humans as well goes without saying ...
However, should I wish the soften the ride with leaves I can either remove one
from each side or install a lighter set. Should a leaf break, rare, but it happens,
I can replace just that leaf or install a new set with just some wrenches and not a
wielding rig. If I wish to flip the axle(s), to raise or perhaps lower the ground clearance
I can accomplish that as well with some wrenches and not have to purchase an
entirely new set that is set at a predetermined angle, then grind the old set off
and wield the new set on and will they be as square and track as true as the factory set???
Just a few of the reasons that my preference for an "older" yet proven system. Besides,
if torsions are so good why haven't they become standard equipment on cars and trucks?

hank

I think that we are getting a little adrift of the topic. My comments on torsion axles are based on my positive experiences. I am not trying to dispel leaf spring suspensions or dismiss them. My intention was to provide information that others could use or not use to make their decisions and to offer an alternative viewpoint.

hankaye wrote:However, should I wish the soften the ride with leaves I can either remove one
from each side or install a lighter set. Should a leaf break, rare, but it happens,
I can replace just that leaf or install a new set with just some wrenches and not a
wielding rig.hank

You are correct that the "spring rate" of a torsion axle cannot be adjusted. Torsion axles can either be welded to the frame directly or brackets can be welded to the frame and the torsion axle is bolted to the bracket. I do the latter method. If using brackets, a torsion axle can be unbolted and a new axle installed in its place.

hankaye wrote:If I wish to flip the axle(s), to raise or perhaps lower the ground clearance
I can accomplish that as well with some wrenches and not have to purchase an
entirely new set that is set at a predetermined angle, then grind the old set off
and wield the new set on and will they be as square and track as true as the factory set???hank

You are correct that a torsion axle cannot be "flipped". A straight leaf spring axle can sometimes be flipped and use the same axle perches. A leaf spring axle with wheel camber cannot be flipped and use the same axle perches. The old perches must be cut off and new perches must be welded on to maintain wheel camber.

The Flexiride torsion axle by UCF America has splined torsion arms that can be unbolted and re-positioned to raise or lower ride height. Dexter makes a "lift kit" spacer for increasing ground clearance of the Torflex torsion axle.

hankaye wrote:Just a few of the reasons that my preference for an "older" yet proven system.hank

I understand that you are comfortable with leaf spring suspensions and I am not trying to change your opinion of them.

hankaye wrote:Besides,if torsions are so good why haven't they become standard equipment on cars and trucks?hank

I would say the same thing. If leaf spring axles are so good why haven't they become standard equipment on cars and trucks? The vast majority of car suspensions use coil springs and/or struts with coil springs. Leaf springs are used at the rear of most light duty pickup trucks, except for Ram trucks that use rear coil springs, but almost all trucks have front coil springs.