Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi all,

I got one of these mounts. originally to put on the front extended hitch on my v-nose.



But I keep thinking I'd really rather have it up on the exterior wall on the V nose. Any reason (other than fear of drilling holes) I can't mount it on the wall? the only other thing I can think of is sag - that the weight would be on the thin sheeting and the interior plywood. Since the uprights in that area are not centered, though, I could mount it "sideways" to offset it and "straddle" a steel stud at the same time to bear the vertical weight.

And if I can, what about sealant? I vaguely remember someone telling me one time not to use silicone on a trailer, but I forget why.

Any thoughts?

Thanks for looking.

If it were me, I would not rely on the aluminum skin and interior plywood to mount the tire to. I would add some form of 2x4, thick plywood or steel backing between the vertical tubes.

yep, make it as solid as possible. If it can vibrate, it will eventually fail.
Tom

Mine was mounted there at the factory. I don't know what it goes through, or into, but its sturdy. How sturdy? I had an Antelope run right into it running at full speed, while I was doing about 60, and the tire is still there! Oh, it knocked the hell out of the trailer, bent the framework a little, and left a slight indentation, but I pounded it out, and am still going. No leaks, no loose tire, just some "personality" there now. A reminder of how I hate deer, antelope, elk, moose, and other 4-legged animals when they cross roads. And the bastards far outnumber humans where I live and play! In hindsight, I think the best place for a spare would probably be on the back door due to aerodynamics and space, but the front vee is solid on mine. These are before the collision.


As for sealing with silicone? I use 3M 5200 marine sealant on my trailer, boats, and anything else that needs a permanent, waterproof seal. You know when an outside screw starts to come loose? I put a drop of 5200 on it, drive it back in, and forget about it. Same with the holes in my trailer for wiring. No leaks, no critters, no maintenance. I could cut it out if I had to, but this stuff is used to seal leaks in boats, NOT as seen on tv! For real.

I too would mount mine on the rear barn doors. But for me, that limits how far I can swing the door open. Which is a deal breaker for me.

Thanks - that sounds promising.

Here's what I have in mind. If I bolt in the big bolts in positions 1 and 4 counting from the left. I'll be straddling a stud and it will be holding the tire. If I VHB the flat surfaces, there will be no vibration, and if I bolster the interior with a length of 1x6 hardwood, I won't be depending on plywood.

The sealer recommendation caps it off. I'm feeling confident now but still - whew - drilling holes in a trailer - at least they're not on top!



The offset will help center up the tire some n the "V" but not completely (notice below the studs aren't centered on the panel), and this method will get it up off the frame leaving more room for battery/propane.

Aesthetically I think a rear door would be most pleasing, but I don't think the doors have the load bearing capacity of the steel frame system.

I'm not too worried about tieback, so if someone can talk me into it, I'm all ears, but the doors are really just plywood and skin, aren't they?

If I was going to do the back doors, I,would have to remove the interior plywood and still make the brace to spread the load.
Regarding the ubolt idea for the front, again, I would worry about the vibration forces while you are driving, hitting potholes and all that and having the metal upright bowed outward. That is a lot of force/weight on the small bar which is not being distibuted over the largest area reasonable.

Hey khigh, wait until you gotta drill a 3-inch hole in the trailer for a chimney pipe for a heater! (If you do.) I sweated, lost sleep, procrastinated, worried, and lost some more sleep. But, it all worked out fine. I was a wreck before and during though.

Back to the tire, I guess maybe the support in the nose/frame is why the factory mounts them there standard. I just have two bolts sticking out where the wheel goes on, and a couple of lug nuts are tightened up. Not sure if they're independent, or an actual U-bolt. I suspect the latter. Tire sits flush against the trailer, which seems to help keep it secure.

I know I am not answering your question, but I mounted my spare on the rear ramp through the center framing with 2 of the "single-mount" bolts that the trailer came with. The spare was originally mounted high and inside the trailer on one mounting "bolt". Here is a link to the device: http://www.textrail.com/LOAD-LOCKER-SPARE-TIRE-MOUNT/

I contacted the mfr to ask if one mount was sufficient if I wanted to mount the spare on the outside. I was told yes it was, but just to be on the safe side, I ordered a second so our spare is mounted with 2 bolts, again, through the aluminum framing, not just the plywood (I wouldn't trust the plywood alone to hold the weight over time).

We've done over 10,000 km (6,200 miles) with no problem. Hitting the spare with my clenched fist is part of my walk-around check routine before we leave a campsite.

BTW - I use "dum dum" sealant whenever I have to make a hole in the trailer sides for mounting something. I don't know what its real name is - it's available at RV dealers. I recently added a small access hatch to the side of my trailer and used dum dum around the backside of the hatch (covering the screw holes) before I mounted the hatch to the trailer.

Hope this helps.

Damn, I've been driving my trailer 20,000 miles without a spare, 120,000 on my tundra without changing a spare ------- now it's gonna keep me up at night about where to put 2 spares.

Bob what say yee ?

I say that with that LUCK, you should go buy a lottery ticket.

Mine just sits on the floor because when I get to where I'm going







I use mine as a step into the trailer (straight axle, so sits a little higher)

My spare tire mount was put on by the dealer. I didn't get to see the packaging but it a machined out billet that mounted to the trailer and another machined part that just slipped in the rail of the trailer mount. He said it was rated at 1000lbs and since he put it on as a dealer, the trailer company counted it as approved and if defective they would repair/replace as necessary. I really like how it's there and out of the way.