Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I pretty much know what I want, but not sure what to use?? Hoping someone could point me in the right direction.

Want:
* 12v power. Coming from a battery of course. Want to be able to turn on the truck, use a generator, or plug into shore power to recharge the battery.
* Be able to connect a small solar panel...down the road... to my 12v circuit.
* run some interior LED lights, small water pump for the sink, fantastic fan, and be able to charge a phone or tablet.

I plan on running 14/2 wire, but I'm not sure of what type of fuse block to use for my requirements?

Or... is there a diagram floating around or a post to read ??

Thanks

Use the search function to look for wiring diagrams. Lots here.

Basically all the wiring from the fuse box to the devices eg lights, pumps is the same no matter what you do. The same for the connection from the battery to the fuse box. This is what you might see typically in an automobile. Using 14awg wire is most likely fine. You do not have too many or any large draw items except the pump. You need a bigger gauge wire for the fuse box - battery connection. You might/should consider a master switch to disconnect all the TD loads from the battery.

Where the big decisions are is with the charging system for the battery.

You should get a multi-stage charger for the battery. The amperage to some extent determines how fast you can charge the battery. Chargers can be separate or incorporated into a power distribution box eg DC fuses, charger and AC circuit breaker panel. Either way, the charger directly connected to the battery.

The charger needs to be connected to shore power or a generator or some AC power source. Lots of methods. The major question is how elaborate or safe you want to be. Some people just use extension cords and gcfi outlets/surge protectors. You need to think about how to get the power cord out of the trailer or tongue box to the shore power/generator. And size of the power cord ( 50A/30A/20A/15A). For your example, something like 20A should be great (the charger can be a big draw). Remember it might be raining/snowing/windy and you might not be around all the time, so security and safety is part of the issue eg you probably do not want to leave your TD rear hatch open or the side doors or even the tongue box open as it invites problems. Circuit breakers between the shore power are also a good thing. RV parks are not known as the most reliable power source. And given a generator is outside in the weather, circuit breakers are good to protect against issues with the external power cord.

To charge from the Towing Vehicle (TV), you need minimally a large gauge wire (well 2, ground and positive) from the TV electrical system to the TD battery. It can be integrated into the wire harness (7 wire) or run separately. Again you should consider fuses at the positive terminals for both batteries and a continuously on solenoid to disconnect the TV when it is not running or you do not want to charge the TD.

Once at the TD, you have options.

Some people just connect the wires to the battery. You are depending on the TV charging system to regulate the charge on the TD battery.

Some people suggest a DC-to-DC charger which helps give you the max charge available to the battery and is often a multi-stage charger. Often they can serve as a solar controller also. Something like CTEK D250S.

There is another school of thought of having the TV DC system connected to an inverter to generate AC which then is used to connect to the battery chargers. In this system, the charger is connected to either the inverter or shore/generator. You most likely need an automatic relay to either use the inverter or the shore power. Although this system is not as efficient, it has some merits including price.

Solar, if you do not have a DC-to-DC charger, requires some sort of controller to regulate the power from the panels to the battery. The best plan is a mppt controller like Victron Energy MPPT 75/15 Solar Charge Controller. Again, there are cables leaving the TD going to the solar panels.

All the chargers, controllers, fuses, switches should be close to the battery.

If you look at this, the battery has up to 4 connections -- up to 3 inputs plus 1 output.

If you have multiple battery banks ( too elaborate??), there are still more components.

Did you check out the electrical secrets http://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=30

A blue sea fuse box is what I used, check by build thread out

I highly suggest reading this thread http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=37732&hilit=super+simple+A%2FC for a super simple AC system

Dan

Thanks for the help.
I'm great at running wires and hooking things up. Not great at what actual parts I need. Would prefer to do this wiring once and be done.
I'm one of those people who need a list of materials to buy, a schematic, and a weekend to put it all together.... all without over complicating things.
So now I kind of know what I need. Now I just need to figure out which parts will work for what I need. I'll read those threads suggested.

Maximus wrote:Thanks for the help.
I'm great at running wires and hooking things up. Not great at what actual parts I need. Would prefer to do this wiring once and be done.
I'm one of those people who need a list of materials to buy, a schematic, and a weekend to put it all together.... all without over complicating things.
So now I kind of know what I need. Now I just need to figure out which parts will work for what I need. I'll read those threads suggested.

Maximus,
I'm planning on using the Progressive Dynamics PD4045 converter. It will act as a distribution box for both 12V & 120V power as well as charge the batteries. Add the necessary incoming and outgoing power wires and appropriate fuses/breakers and your pretty much set. I've priced building a similar set up vs the pd 4045 and its almost a washout.
My initial wiring is going to be 3 outside 120V receptacles, one street side , two curb side, all on GFCI receptacles. Two interior 120v recep's in the trailer interior and two in the V-nose area (kitchen space). The V-nose space will piggyback each other from a GFCI recep.
My 12v will consist of two ceiling mounted LED overhead lights piggybacked off each other controlled by a dimmer and two LED strips mounted at the ceiling/ wall intersection controlled by seperate dimmers. Then I'll install a 12v circuit for some under the counter LED's, a 12v circuit for my water pump and a 12v circuit for the stereo and charging cell phones etc etc.

I drew a simple diagram of my trailer floor plan, laying out about where I wanted certain components at. It gave me a chance to make my parts lists, and layout my wiring diagram.


Martin

Martin,

Thanks for the input. Question? I saw this on ebay: Progressive Dynamics (PD9260CV) 60 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard. The model PD4045 and the PD9260 are roughly the same price. Is one different than the other?

Links to the items would be helpful

Long story short our teardrop (built for us) came with the PD 4045 but the wiring not complete so I am intimately familiar with it. I have added a number of additional circuits and modified it so that an inverter powers the 120VAC breakers. One thing I have said repeatedly plan on more than you think you will need. Other than the 30A breaker for intake all of the others are double breakers. all 10 of the 12VDC circuits are in use.

MtnDon wrote:Links to the items would be helpful

I'm assuming this is what you are referring too ??
http://www.progressivedyn.com/all_in_one_pd4000.html

Shadow Catcher wrote: One thing I have said repeatedly plan on more than you think you will need. Other than the 30A breaker for intake all of the others are double breakers. all 10 of the 12VDC circuits are in use.

Shadow Catcher,
I agree 100% with this. It's a whole lot easier to start with more then you think you'll need than scrapping some "not enough" equipment later on. I'm starting with the PD4045 myself and even ran additional 12V wires while roughing my wiring in just so I hopefully don't have to pull my walls back down later on.


Martin