Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

This has probably been addressed, but in a search Nothing Specific came up, plz bear with me if the subject has been addressed before and refer me to thenproper thread or threads.

We started insulating an Atlas cargo trailer that we have, had someone all set to do some of the things we felt were beyond our expertise or skill levels. Some of our contacts have changed their minds . Now we are thinking it might be easier to just order an aluminum Cargo Trailer with the insulation, wring, lights, RV door and window already done. We have done some research, but feel we need to hear form the experts, yes, that would be you, for some guidance. Wr want a single axle , 6 X 12 or 7X12 that's. 7 feet high. we really want to do the bed that goes up to the ceiling and comes down at night, to best utilize our space and that requires a 7 ft ceiling. The extra foot i width we would get with one that is 7 ft wide would be a nice bonus. Will be towing with our Volvo XC70, which has a towing capacity of 3500 lbs. For many years we towed a small ultra light camping trailer with this vehicle and have found it does great, even crosssing the Rockies and Cascades. Hitch weight on it is pretty light, so no tandem axel for us. We will only be hauling our tandem trike, which weighs about 80 pounds and our gear, so no need for anythng heavy weight. We are looking for something that has good waterproofing underneath. What brand trailers would you recommend and are there any we should avoid? We are located in MI and were considering RNR because they are in state. Has anyone had exoerience, good or bad, with them? I know everyone has thier own taste and preferences. Any reasons you can give as to why you choose to order the brand you did would be helpful. Also what is a good price for what we have in mind? what is the advanatge of a V nose, versus a reglukar? Thanks in advance, we need all the suggestions and knowledge we can get.

Insulation: Most companies use the "foil-faced bubble wrap”. In my opinion, factory installed insulation is worthless. http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blo ... ubble-wrap

Windows: it would be advisable that you see an example of the windows or brand that they will install.

Size: Width and hight should be as much as you can pull and maneuver comfortably.

Order through a near by dealer if you can, Use a credit card for deposit and payment, maintain all communication through Emails, send the manufacturer a sketch of what you want and ask if it can be done (by Email), then submit the same to dealer (Email).

The above is what we learned after ordering a 8’ 6” x 32’ from Haulmark. We ended up going to court with the dealer (that’s why you need to use Email for documentation, no he said/she said).


Read through all this Great Forum has to offer.

If I were to order another CT, RNR would be seriously considered.
But from then on, I would want to do ALL of the modification stuff myself. Not only do I not trust the manufacturers to get it right, I find I change my designs while working on them. It is work/design in process for sure. One example is just a simple matter of window placement. Nothing beats sitting in the trailer and wondering what would go where, something you most likely would have a hard time to do on paper before ordering.

Bob is right.

I ordered my 6X12 Haulmark through a dealer who sat down with me and we went through the option book one by one. It came in exactly as ordered, with lights, wiring, windows, rv door, and the dreaded bubble insulation. I'll agree that the factory insulation is nowhere near as effective as your own would be. However, after "living" in it for a few hundred nights in weather from +10F to +100F, I still haven't quite convinced myself I need to rip it out and install more/better insulation. Your mileage will vary of course. I did install a propane heater, and also ran some direct wiring to the battery for 12 volt plugs. I also made a screen door from a window kit. Adding foam tiles on the floor made a huge difference in warming the place. I also bubble wrap the windows and vents during the 9 cold/cool months of the year where I live (Sept-May). I just suffer through the few weeks of heat by finding shade, using fans, using a 12-volt "redneck" swamp cooler as a personal cooling device, and standing in a cold trout river.

In hindsight, I might do the insulation myself with a brand new one, but I'm not into cutting and installing doors and windows. No skills! I'd say pick the projects you are comfortable with, have tools for, and have time for, but let the factory do the rest. Go 7 wide (I went 6 but would add that foot next time.) I ordered the V-nose for that bit of extra space in the V, and I do love that space. However, you lose tongue space too. I have only a battery. The propane bottle rides in the back of the truck. Next time? I don't know if I'd go V or not. Maybe a 7X14 flat nose. Or 7X12. But I love my 6X12 V, and it tows and parks easily. Getting ready for the third set of tires!!

On the insulation issue, I'd make sure the walls and ceiling will come down easy without tearing it all up. There have been lots of posts here over the years of people having a very hard time unscrewing the walls and ceiling. Screws that are actually nails. Having to drill them out. Ceilings cracking/breaking. Trim issues. Other problems. That's why I tried the factory insulation to begin with.

Keep us posted. We love pictures, how-to's, and ideas.

I ordered my with no plywood on the inside. Instead it was added to the outside between the vertical posts and aluminum siding.
That save me a lot of work and I did not pay for plywood I would destroy or not use

Good discussion; I'm in the same boat. I've got basic DIY skills but for me, it comes down to how much time I have. Time spent with the trailer torn down is time I can't spend in the field prospecting. I know it is a gamble finding the balance between letting a "pro" at the factory do the work who may not have pride in their work and me with limited skills and time trying to knock it out (and risking screwing it up lol).

I am considering ordering from here: http://www.trailershowroom.com/
Website does a pretty good job of letting you choose individual options. I've been shooting emails back and forth with the sales folks to be sure I know what I'll be getting before I commit. I've gone through the options list a dozen times, trying to determine where I want to be on the spectrum of saving money and having a fully optioned trailer ready to take out from the get-go.

As long as you make sure that the trailer has screws and not nails before buying then it is not a lot of work or skill to R&R the walls and insulate really?
The panels should just come right down and the insulation cuts easily and slides right into the wall cavities and then the panels easily go right back where they came from because the screws are already indexed to the holes that they came out of.
Just make sure the panels return to the same place they started and this is not a big project at all.
It is also well worth the time and effort and far better than the usual job a manufacturer will provide.

If I had my choice, I would of went with a 7' wide and taller trailer for more usable space. If it was longer I would have added a small room for the bathroom too. Just depends on what you want to do with it really.

One suggestion I'll make regardless of brand/manufacturer you choose, make sure the width and length meet your needs. I looked at several sizes before deciding. I walked in atleast six trailers of different sizes.In the end it was a toss up between the 7x16 and the 7x20. I went with the 7x16. The width will allow me to stagger two full size baggers and still have room. It'll also allow me to run our 14ft canoe inside or run two ATV's inside and still have room to spare. Granted I don't have the need for a bathroom or shower in my CTC as most places I stay have those facilities, they atleast have a bathroom and I'm installing a outdoor shower in my build. I love being outside so the interior will be more for sleeping or escaping a storm than anything.

Choose the size you need and build your own. You'll know every inch of your trailer and exactly how its built.


Martin

Definitely go with a 7 wide regardless of length. a 7' wide is exactly the length needed to put a regular twin/full/queen mattress across the trailer. I used etrack and the 2x4 holders to make the beds, so it breaks down into 4- 2x4's 80" long and 2 sheets of plywood (36x80) for bunk beds in my 7x18.

I built one based on what I needed, it worked great until the wife went. (go figure). No actually we both decided a restroom wasn't an issue since all her life she tent camped and could find a camp restroom or pee in the woods. That was then, this is now. We are planning a version 2 with at least 20ft-24ft, or a gooseneck with 20ft on the ground and 8ft on tongue to allow a toilet only restroom and a sink. Still all cooking is outside unless necessary to cook inside on camp propane stove.

But there is a price to be paid for a 7 footer over a 6 footer and that is the added wind resistance of the extra foot in width.

tandempair, Howdy;

What size trailer you decide to buy should fit your needs and wants, perhaps not in that order.
For me I know that I'll be utilizing Forest Service roads. As such they are not well known for their
ability to provide Interstate quality driving conditions and lane width. s you can see below, 6' width
works better in some places and fore an aft berthing is ok for me.

hank

The Featherlite are 6'6" wide just to make it more complicated!

It seems like a great compromise and in as nice a rig as you can expect to find too.

I also have a 7 x 10 and it is great to be able to place the bed across the width,it really seems to open up the trailer in my experience.

lrrowe wrote:But there is a price to be paid for a 7 footer over a 6 footer and that is the added wind resistance of the extra foot in width.

That's funny.. I went with a 7' over the 8' for the same reason. :-) I had to make some floor plan trade-off to get it al lin and not have too narrow of an aisle.