Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2017 5:46 pm**

Greetings all, I've been lurking here for a while getting ideas. I am a motorcycle track day junkie, and looking for a trailer to serve as garage/storage for my bikes when not at the track, then to also serve as a temporary residence when overnighting track side. I am not looking for any cooking facilities or bathroom/shower stuff as this is normally available.

So, tow vehicle is a newer Volvo XC60 rated at 3500lbs. This means a single axle with brakes...that decision is done! Size 6 or 7x12.

I'm starting with an aluminum trailer in mind (looking at Neo right now) for light weight and corrosion resistance, but price may put me back towards a steel trailer.

Please help me choose the options that I should have the built in:

1. Flat vs Rounded roof? Flat would be easier to insulate, but would require an extra 6" of headroom bringing the cost to about even between the two.
2. Windows- I think its worthwhile to let the manufacturer do this. the question is 30x30 or 30X15? It is nearly double the price for the larger window.
3. Electrics - just north of $1K for a 30amp package including 4 overhead LED lights, 2 exterior quartz loading lights, 3 110v outlets, switches, shore power connector, and distro panel. I've read here that Neo's wiring is sub-par and have the know-how to do it myself, but is it worth the hassle?
4. Insulation - $350 for wall and ceiling insulation. Worth it or DIY?
5. Walls and ceiling - I love the clean look of the white walls and ceiling, looks like its almost $300 for the white vinyl, I assume aluminum would be more. Worth it, or should I just paint the interior Plywood and call it good, or find a supplier to add the white alu or vinyl later?
6. Neo's L-Track seems expensive at $16 per foot. I think I can add it myself later for considerably less. Maybe I'll use bike specific rear wheel mounts to get rid of straps and keep from having tracks to collect dirt and gunk, etc.
7. Rubber coin flooring is over $1K for the floor and ramp. Seems way cheaper for the material, but what about installation?

All in all, I'm thinking to order it basically stock and do the work myself with the exception of the windows and vent/ac bracing.

Thoughts?

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2017 6:46 pm**

7' would be the way to go.
Flat or V? I prefer flat, many others prefer V. The MPG thing depends on who you ask.
Insulation? Factories use Styrofoam and no tape, or even worst! Reflective-Wrap. Do it yourself, you'll do a much, much better job. You will get to see under the panels, fix any screw-ups, and you want to paint the box frame anyway.
Windows aren't that hard to do. I had a bad experience with factory installed window once.
Electric? Do it yourself. Cheaper and everything goes where you want it (as you will be changing your plans at least 5 times when you have trailer).
Some would advice you to get an RV door! I prefer the regular door.
I got torsion axles w/electric breaks. My trailer is too low! Think about how high you want yours.
Walls & ceiling. For a very affordable clean look, use Luan over your panel (very light, and paints well).

Give it a couple of weeks or more! You will get more input from other members, and have more ideas. :thumbsup:

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2017 7:05 pm**

Make it 6.5 in height and add 2' to whatever length you think you need.

Posted: **Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:06 pm**

Since my friends have a Volvo I will suggest sticking with a 6' foot wide if your going over 6' high.
They bought an all aluminum 6'x12'x7'

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted: **Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:45 am**

If you are average size 6'+ 210ish I would recommend no less than 6.5' high, 7' probably better. I don't spend a lot of time in the trailer standing up, but I notice I start slouching after a while. I've got about 1" clearance from my noodle, it's not bad, but not great. I would go bare bones. Not even interior siding. Do ALL your own electrical and re-do all factory wiring. Do the insulation yourself, and do it right. Makes a huge difference. Seal it up and tape it properly. Flooring is easy, I used the black rubber diamond type, 99.00 shipped covered 6 x 12 + 6x6 ramp. If I did it again, I would spend the money on the best aluminium trailer chassis w/brakes I could find or afford. The rest is personal preference and you should do that yourself. I used the Pingle chocks that are removable and the d-rings set into the floor for tie downs.
Good Luck and have fun.

McDave

Posted: **Wed Jan 18, 2017 8:15 am**

Cant say i would blame ya for having windows and AC bracing done... would save time and maybe headache if never done it before.

do the electrical yourself... shouldnt even be close to 1k. If going with straight 110v, a breaker box $30-40?, Good 12ga-14ga wite maybe another $100 at the absolute most. Problem u may run into with 110 set up is finding fixtures. There are plenty out there but i want LED, and need to stay away from the mounting on the ceiling... atleast in the middle of thetrailer where i will be standing/walking. But i have found some that will work and will be mounted on the side walls nearest to the roof. If you were to go with a 12v/30amp/battery power station, still wouldnt be anywhete close to $1000.

Interior Height.... i am 6 ft, i have a 6x12 with no added height, but its rounded roof adds a few inches. If i have thick soled boots i needed to stay in middle of trailer, of just slightly lean head forward... its not to bad at all. I will insulated between framing and use thin ply or luan to cover so i lose as little clearance as possible. An extra 5" would be perfect for me at 6", but what i have will work. This is also why i will be mounted lights to the side walls.

Just because the vechile is rated at 3500 doesnt mean it would bean easy tow when loaded, or dealing with weather conditions or steep grades.... also have to be mindful of tongue weight, i am not familiar with the volvo Tow vehicle... 7 foot gives a lot more oppurtunity for bed lay out thus saving quiet a hit of much needed space in a 12' trailer.

Do your homework and bite the bullet.

Posted: **Wed Jan 18, 2017 10:29 am**

RAIDER PLEASE EXCUSE BLOCK CAPS, THEY JUST ADDRESS THE ISSUES YOU LISTED

Raider wrote:Greetings all, I've been lurking here for a while getting ideas. I am a motorcycle track day junkie, and looking for a trailer to serve as garage/storage for my bikes when not at the track, then to also serve as a temporary residence when overnighting track side. I am not looking for any cooking facilities or bathroom/shower stuff as this is normally available.

I HAD A TRAILER THAT PROVIDED THE AMENITIES YOU DESIRE

7X12 WHICH NORMALLY COMES W/ TANDEM AXLES (SINGLE AXLE 7X12'S ARE SPECIAL ORDER)

So, tow vehicle is a newer Volvo XC60 rated at 3500lbs. This means a single axle with brakes...that decision is done! Size 6 or 7x12.

BOTH 6 & 7 WILL BE QUITE NOTICIBLE BEHIND YOUR TV

I'm starting with an aluminum trailer in mind (looking at Neo right now) for light weight and corrosion resistance, but price may put me back towards a steel trailer.

THE WEIGHT OF A TRAILER IS AN ISSUE AS MUCH AS THE FRONTAL WIND DAM(N)

Please help me choose the options that I should have the built in:

1. Flat vs Rounded roof? Flat would be easier to insulate, but would require an extra 6" of headroom bringing the cost to about even between the two.

ROUNDED WONT LEAK AS BAD AND MAY OFFER MORE HEAD ROOM

PICK AN INTERNAL HEIGHT THAT WILL ALLOW YOU TO WALK IT W/ YOUR BUCKET IN PLACE

2. Windows- I think its worthwhile to let the manufacturer do this. the question is 30x30 or 30X15? It is nearly double the price for the larger window.

HAVING WINDOW(S) ISN'T NECESSARILY A BENEFIT. WINDOWS ALLOW JOHN Q TO SEE WHAT IS INSIDE YOUR TRAILER WHEN YOU ARE TRAVELING AND CAN BE AN INVITATION TO THE CRIMINAL ELEMENTS OF SOCIETY

AND YOU WONT BE SPENDING THAT MUCH TIME INSIDE ANYWAY...

3. Electrics - just north of $1K for a 30amp package including 4 overhead LED lights, 2 exterior quartz loading lights, 3 110v outlets, switches, shore power connector, and distro panel. I've read here that Neo's wiring is sub-par and have the know-how to do it myself, but is it worth the hassle?

DIY PROVIDES WHAT YOU WANT WHERE YOU WANT IT

4. Insulation - $350 for wall and ceiling insulation. Worth it or DIY?

BUY IT NEKKID & DIY

YOU CAN DO THE ELECTRICAL AT THE SAME TIME AND MAKE NOTES ABOUT WHERE THE BRACING IS FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

5. Walls and ceiling - I love the clean look of the white walls and ceiling, looks like its almost $300 for the white vinyl, I assume aluminum would be more. Worth it, or should I just paint the interior Plywood and call it good, or find a supplier to add the white alu or vinyl later?

AGAIN DIY. OVER THE DIY INSULATION JOB, USING A GOOD HARDWOOD DOOR SKIN WILL PROVIDE A NICE SMOOTH SURFACE TO PAINT WHITE, IF YOU WANT THAT COLOUR. ROLL IT ON AND BE DONE WITH IT. YOU CAN ALWAYS TOUCH UP THE INEVITABLE MARS

6. Neo's L-Track seems expensive at $16 per foot. I think I can add it myself later for considerably less. Maybe I'll use bike specific rear wheel mounts to get rid of straps and keep from having tracks to collect dirt and gunk, etc.

I USED 2 ROWS OF E-TRACK ON THE WALLS

GREAT FOR SECURING STUFF LIKE CHAIRS & FOLDING TABLES TO THE WALLS WHILE TRAVELING OR IN STORAGE MODE

AND BED BOLTS IN THE FLOOR, WHICH ALLOW THE INSTALLATION & REMOVAL OF FORGED EYEBOLTS AS/WHERE NEEDED/DESIRED

http://www.bedbolts.com

BED BOLTS ARE JAM HANDY INVENTIONS THAT I USE IN/ON ALL MY TRAILERS. REASONABLE FACSIMILES CAN BE HAD AT TRACTOR SUPPLY

WHEN INSTALLING THEM I DRILL THEM THRU X-MEMBERS UNDER THE FLOOR(NOT JUST THRU THE PLYWOOD) & PULL THE HEAD DOWN FLUSH W/ THE FLOOR LEAVING NOTHING TO TRIP OVER

REDLINE OFFERS A FLUSH MOUNTED FRONT WHEEL CHOCK THAT WHEN FOLDED ALLOWS USE OF THE FLOORW/O OBSTRUCTIONS

http://www.redlinestands.com/catalog/lo ... ping-p-588

7. Rubber coin flooring is over $1K for the floor and ramp. Seems way cheaper for the material, but what about installation?

IF YOU ARE GOING TO INSTALL FLOORING, DIY. AND THE ADDITION OF FLOORING ALLOWS YOU TO LEAVE THE HEAD OF BED BOLTS PROUD TO THE PLYWOOD AND THUS FLUSH W/ THE FLOORING SURFACE

WHICHEVER FLOORING SURFACE YOU ARE CONSIDERING MUST BE OIL/FUEL RESISTANT

All in all, I'm thinking to order it basically stock and do the work myself with the exception of the windows and vent/ac bracing.

LET THEM PROVIDE THE A/C BRACING BECAUSE IT COULD BECOME A WARRANTY ISSUE IF YOU DO IT YOURSELF

Thoughts?

FOR BEDDING I USED A METAL WW II ARMY HOSPITAL COT PLACED ACROSS THE FRONT AHEAD OF THE DOOR, IT JUST FIT WITH A BIT OF ENCOURAGEMENT

I COVERED THE SPRINGS W/ A WOOL RUG AND USED A THERMAREST CAMP BED FOR CUSHIONING

MANY GOOD NIGHTS!!!

MY REAR DOOR WAS A RAMP AND THE SIDE DOOR HAD BOTH AN RV LATCH & A COMMON BAR TRAILER LOCK

IN CAMP THE RV LATCH SURE IS HANDY, SPECIALLY WHEN YOU ARE ON THE INSIDE

ON THE ROAD OR IN STORAGE MODE THE BAR LOCK MAKES ME FEEL BETTER

I GOT 4 PADLOCKS KEYED ALIKE(ACE HDWR WILL KEY MASTER LOCKS FOR YOU), 2/RAMP DOOR, 1/SIDE DOOR, 1/HITCH COUPLER(WHICH HAD TO HAVE THE HOLE MASSAGED SLIGHTLY)

A ROLL OUT CANOPY WOULD BE QUITE HANDY

POP UP CAMPERS OFFER A METHOD OF ATTACHING AN OUTDOOR TABLS THAT WOULD BE NICE

¿ HAVE I MUDDIED THE WATERS ENUFF ?

sw

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 1:38 am**

Okay, so this is where I'm headed:

Neo NAM127SR Its a single axle 7x12 with rounded roof. The NAM line comes with some option package for motorcycles:

90 Degree Deep V-Nose
Ramp Door - NXP Stainless Latch, Spring Assist
Pro-Flap, Ramp Door Flap
Sport Tie-Down System L-Track
2 Wheel Chocks, 8 Adjustable Lock Rings
Grip Tread Runners, Traction Strips
Flushlock Curbside Door
Two-Tone Exterior Aluminum with MikaD Design
Bonded Exterior Skin, .030 Aluminum
Wave Stone Guard 24" ATP
3/4" x 12" Plywood Scuff Liner
15" Bias Tire on Silver Wheels
Integrated Triple Tube Tongue
16" O/C Walls
3/4" Exterior Grade Plywood Floor
24" O/C Floor
Tongue Jack
ProStab, Revolutionary Drop Leg Stabilizer Jacks
1 Piece Aluminum Roof
16" O/C Roof Bows
Flow Through Vents
2" Coupler
12V Dome Light
LED Exterior Lights

Upgrades:

Torsion axle with electric brakes
6" additional height to bring the door height to 73.25" and the interior center height to 78.5". Should accommodate my 6' height.
I will add two 15x30 windows mounted towards the top to discourage the peepers.
Braced and wired for AC or powered vent.

That's it. The rest I can do myself. Sleeping will likely be on something like a Helinox cot with Thermarest and sleeping bag; no complicated/heavy bed to worry about. Packs up small, etc...

Now the trick is to find the dealer with the best prices and customer service.

Anyone with Neo experience, please feel free to post your recommendations.

Thanks for all the inputs!

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 1:40 am**

Oh yeah, one more question...is a 16" OC floor needed? Its under $100, but just not sure if its needed on such a light trailer.

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 5:26 am**

That's gonna be a real nice platform to start your build. That additional height will serve you well, and I like the sound of the "Cycle Pkg." options.
What bike(s) are you hauling? If dirt bikes, I think the floor is fine @ 24" oc. If full on Harley, 1 is probably OK
@24, 2 dressers will be right at max payload, so maybe 16".
I have a 6 x 12 and it just worked out that the contact patches of tires were right on frame members. I looked at those C-channel type x-members and they were pretty thin, so I put in some .125 channels sistered up to the stock channels where the tires sit. It did stiffen things up.
Well It sounds like you're about off and running. Good Luck and have fun. We'll see ya out there...

McDave

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 7:40 am**

Raider wrote:Oh yeah, one more question...is a 16" OC floor needed? Its under $100, but just not sure if its needed on such a light trailer.

over the long haul you wont be sorry you added the extra strength

you know what you're going to be doing tomorrow butt life evolves and having the strength up front allows that evolution to take place w/o major concerns....

just one old man's 2¢ worth

sw

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 8:00 am**

I agree on the 16" OC floor its a small expense for the piece of mind. Just curious if it was way overboard.

I will be typically hauling a sports bike and necessary gear for a track day/weekend. However, the trailer will serve as garage for that bike and my BMW R1200GS on a full time basis.

Of course it will pull duty as general hauler when called upon.

Thanks again for all the inputs.

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 12:24 pm**

Also, NEO uses real screws to attach the interior 3/8 ply walls to the ribs, so removing it is real easy - you will appreciate that when it comes to insulating/wiring.

Good luck with your build!

Posted: **Thu Jan 19, 2017 2:39 pm**

I'm just getting started with mine. I ordered without insulation and 6' 6" high. You will be glad to get the extra height. I just finished the insulation...1" foamboard in the walls and ceiling. You can do the electric yourself for less than $250; that's including AC and DC. You can get really creative with the walls and ceiling. I'm going to use coroplast for the ceiling and cover the upper plywood panels in burlap and the lower in carpet, I think. I'm also using foam 2'x2' floor tiles for the floor.

Just some ideals.

RandyH

Posted: **Mon Jan 23, 2017 1:58 pm**

Just curious - what kind of a price quote did you get for this trailer? I am thinking of the same thing. Thanks.

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

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