Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm looking to buy my first cargo trailer and would like to hear pros and cons of a couple of choices.

Flat top vs round top?

Leaf springs vs torsion axel?

I am considering a 7x12 or 7x14 box size and would like a V nose. I am thinking a single axel, with electric brakes and either a 3500 lb rated axel. Also want a curbside rv style door with screen.

Is having a heavier rated axel than needed going to make the trailer bounce? Say I could put a 5200 lb axel in it would that just cause the trailer to bounce/shake more?

Any comments welcome.

I'm my state 3,500 axle means you must have brakes. Stiffer leaf spring suspension unload would ride rougher. My American Hauler, is all aluminum, 7x12x7 flat top v nose. 3,500 axle with brakes, RV style door no screen.



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That sounds a lot like Hankaye's trailer. He did his homework before purchase. Check him out...
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=53787&start=60#p1082731

McDave

Depending on how much towing you'll be doing (how many miles you plan to drive), I'd consider a tandem axle setup. Side-to-side sway on a sing axle can be a real pain and that is drastically reduced with a tandem setup.

My NEO 7x16x7 with dual axles came with a round roof. I like the round roof because 1. it added a little bit of extra height, 2. the center of the roof is just a bit higher than the edge so water drains off easily and 3. I think it looks a little less utilitarian that a flat top trailer - to each his own!

Trailer came with springs which I have no problem with. When doing my research I read that torsion springs are a bit more fussy with dual axles as they have to be "loaded" equally, sometimes difficult to achieve.

I ordered torsion on my previous 5x10 single axle (3500 lbs/brakes) cargo trailer that I used for my home reno business. It did not bounce at all with the weight of my tools and supplies in it.

Hope this helps!

I have a 6x14 single axle with brakes, a flat top, and a 2 foot V- nose. Just a couple of comments:

My "flat" roof is actually 1 inch higher in the center. I've not had any water problems up there. I'm currently living in Washington State north of Seattle and water comes down in buckets here!

I chose the standard 3500 lb springs (with some trepidation) as they were less expensive and repair could be had anywhere. Based on past experience, I was really expecting a rough ride. There has been none of that. I get no bounce, I get no jumping, I get no sway. It's just following along as nice as you please, loaded or not. Now, I have not been on a washboard road, yet, but I've never been in anything that likes that! I have no experience with torsion suspensions myself and hadn't given it much thought, but I read an article recently that explains why severe washboard (and heat) is no friend to torsion, either. They're popular, though.

Good Luck
Dave

Thanks for the replays! I have been reading here for awhile. Does anyone have a good idea how much weight that their conversion has added?

Thanks

low277 wrote:Thanks for the replays! I have been reading here for awhile. Does anyone have a good idea how much weight that their conversion has added?

Thanks

Just the conversion or "wet" weight and loaded?
My CTC is a toy hauler - motorcycle and kayak. While I haven't hit a scale I believe I'm about 3000-3200 - loaded. Giving me just enough for another bike.Before my 3500 max.


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I have another question. OK, maybe two!!

How bad are the less expensive trailers? Will they last for 10 years if pulled a a few thousand miles a year?

Thanks

Some are better than others. I'd try to get one with out paneling so I could inspect welds. Then I would assuming it's not all aluminum- rust proof all metal.
Maintenance will help the less expense and the must expensive around longer. Winter -freezing ,thawing , salt- ice are what will cause damage.



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CoventryKid wrote:My NEO 7x16x7 with dual axles came with a round roof. I like the round roof because 1. it added a little bit of extra height, 2. the center of the roof is just a bit higher than the edge so water drains off easily and 3. I think it looks a little less utilitarian that a flat top trailer - to each his own!

Did you go for the extra 6" height? I like the extra height but I am concerned about the extra drag it would produce.

Definitely choose the added height vs less drag. Most of your real "drag" occurs at the rear doors/ramp, anyways. As the trailer moves through the air it compresses and accelerates the air creating a high pressure zone in front and around the vehicle, resulting in low pressure air at rear. This acts as suction, holding/pulling the vehicle back. Any flat vertical surface is especially prone to this. Vans, Box trucks, Cargo trailers etc. have a completely different look at the rear than todays aerodynamic cars, and the fuel economy speaks for itself. That is price that is paid to have access to cargo hauling.
The tow vehicle has already "punched a hole" in the air, creating high and low pressure zones. the trailer follows, entering already disturbed air, that's unavoidable. So the "face" of the trailer has less effect on drag than does the rear, where the low pressure (suction) zone occurs. The bigger and flatter the rear vertical surface, the stronger the suction. Adding 6" to the frontal profile adds some resistance, but not much.
For most of us, the trailer is not a "daily driver", so the comfort and utility outweighs the fuel economy.
These trailers are a finite, small space to start. They keep getting smaller as the conversion progresses. A little extra headspace makes a lot of difference in comfort and utility.
But then, hindsight is 20/20......just sayin'

McDave

Did you go for the extra 6" height? I like the extra height but I am concerned about the extra drag it would produce.

I bought my trailer "off the lot" so it is 7x16x7 with the 2' v-nose. You can see how the trailer kinda "tucks" behind the van in this picture. Interestingly I asked the dealer why the 7' ceiling vs. 6'6" (which is what I was really wanting) and he said it was because they could load a smaller trailer inside the bigger one - 2 for the price of 1 as far as shipping is concerned. I'm glad we went with the 7' ceiling. After insulating the floor (inside), we still have lots of headroom and the rig does not feel claustrophobic at all.



As far as drag, reduced gas mileage, etc., I have no idea. We just go.

Hope this helps.

Consider Airtabs.
http://airtab.com/airtab-applications.htm

I know Prem added them to his CT and I also think others considered them in posts made mid last year.

low277, Howdy;

Good to see someone else with questions, usually my spot in the line-up.
McDave up near the top mentioned about doing your homework and it looks like
you are in that process. I choose the extra 6" of height so that I could stand-up
without having to stoop any. I've worked in tight places and drove over the road
for 10 years and never was I given a truck that had a sleeper I could stand upright in.

However and whatever you choose the main thing here is to be content with your
decisions and ask questions whenever have one. Always someone around here that
either has run into the same thing or something similar.

Looking forward to seeing what ya do with yours.

hank