Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hello i am new to this site ive been eye balling it for a while but decided to join and ask questions now.
ABOUT ME: I am in the market for a 8.5 x 16 enclosed cargo to convert into a toy hauler. I do a lot of Track days and will be traveling from Florida to New Jersey. I will have to stay in this for 1-3 days depending on the event.
so it will get the essentials i assure you but this topic is about the ROOF.
THE PLAN: So as ive started my search ive been looking at the different ways people have been designing their sleeping quarters to suit their needs.
What i have come up with is to do a pop up style unit on top of the trailer. there will be a aluminum frame 6' x 9'8" that will encase a queen size pillow top that is 5' x 6' 8" on the roof.
To cover that will be a fiberglass top that is attached to 4 water/dust proof electric linear actuators that run 12vdc. these actuators will raise the top 50" from the frame. and will actually be done by a key fob like on a car so as soon as i park i can start lifting it. I have a company lined up that is going to make with either 10 mil or 12 mil of my choice canvas that will attach to the top and frame giving me a barrier from the out side weather. There will be a access hole thats 2' wide by 3' long with a ladder to to access the bed.
WHERE YOU COME IN: So now that you have a idea of my plan what i need to know is how much weight will the roof it self hold. id say for this it would need to substain 500lbs. I am aware that i would have to reinforce it to support this ive also looked at a bunch of different companys and see that the standard is 16" on center or 24" on center for the ceiling joist. i have found a company for $10 a foot will do 12" on center.
CONCLUSION: I am a do it your selfer that has fabrication skills and some electrical, tho i have that basis covered. What i need is to retain as much floor space and wall space as possible to store 2.5 bikes the .5 being a GROM. Tools, stands, tables, gas jugs, to hang suits, ETC it will also be equipped with a mini fridge, bathroom, small sink, and cabinet space.

Never mind I reread and see the part about an access hole.
I'd ask the CT manufacturer engineering about roof load capacity.

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Talk to the manufactures. I would think that they engineer for a snow load at least, and would be able to give you that information. Then you would have to figure approximate square inch loads for the areas where your weight would be. A lot will depend on how large of an area the weight is spread over. You would still need some type of "floor" to spread the weight from rafter to rafter. The thin roof metal isn't built for walking on.

If it was me and I was worried about the weight, I would build a separate floor with bracing under it and mount the unit to the side wall framing. About like a roof top carrier, but you wouldn't need to have much clearance between the two. You could enclose completely on the front back and sides.

Rainier70 wrote:Talk to the manufactures. I would think that they engineer for a snow load at least, and would be able to give you that information. Then you would have to figure approximate square inch loads for the areas where your weight would be. A lot will depend on how large of an area the weight is spread over. You would still need some type of "floor" to spread the weight from rafter to rafter. The thin roof metal isn't built for walking on.

If it was me and I was worried about the weight, I would build a separate floor with bracing under it and mount the unit to the side wall framing. About like a roof top carrier, but you wouldn't need to have much clearance between the two. You could enclose completely on the front back and sides.

Yeah I said 500 but that wouldn't be nearly that close. The actuators will be mounted inside coming up through the roof and a floor directly under the skin would definitely need to be used because the .30 won't hold you are correct.
As far as dead weight we are talking about a merely 20 lbs aluminium frame the pillow tip that's 50 lbs and my self and Girl friend together that's 310 spread across 5' x 6' surface area. The canvas will be supported by the fiberglass top.

I have noticed some companies offering to reinforce roof for purposes of walking on, or even decks built on top. So, I am sure if u check with the options dealers offer, one can be found to offer what u need. Will try to post a few that showed that option when I get home.

Only one i seem to have saved offering the "walk on" roof:

http://www.trailershowroom.com/products.htm

Interesting concept.

Take a look at some of the English and Australian caravans for ideas:
http://www.automotiveleisure.co.uk/page15.html
http://newagecaravans.com.au/caravan/16ft-wallaby-ensuite-rear-entry/

Here's my redneck setup using army cots and E-track:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=48345&start=15#p1110264

In your situation, I wonder if you could take a page out of the Sportsmobile book, support the mattress frame near the roof via the trailer walls, or even use the floor and walls with E-track. Then you would use the popup roof only for ventilation and vertical space when sleeping.
Checkout the interior pics on this page to see what I'm thinking. If you had your cargo builder reinforce and frame your rectangular opening to fit one of these penthouse roofs, then you'd literally be off to the races. I like linear actuators, but the good ole' x-frame is a proven simple design.
http://adventuretravelsportrentals.com/sportsmobile-interior-photos/

We've camped at Road Atlanta in the infield with ours as spectators, boondocking. It was great! Think of your cargo as an oversized motovan, with limitless possibilities.