Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Have been looking around for a mini window are conditioner for my 6x12 trailer. As far as I remember my studs are 16" on centre. So need to find a 5000 btu that would fit in between.

Any suggestions. Don't want to go the portable route and can't afford the roof top or split systems

Cheers

Al

Nope they all are to big. I have/had a single hose, not helping in the heat -mid 80's. So I'm now how to redo without losing the things I liked about my simple camper.
I'm getting help from Don&McDave on possible solution. You can see what's been discussed @
Its sort of mine!

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_ ... Ft%3D62418


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Look for the narrower units designed to fit casement windows.

e.g. Figidaire FFRS1022R1

Window opening minimum width:15.5"

May be able to squeeze it in, shave it down, or others might be a little narrower.

You could do like Don (Flboy) and mount the AC unit inside and then just do some proper venting. You could easily do it this way without cutting studs.
Dons AC build starts about here: viewtopic.php?f=42&t=65498&start=240

Iconfabul8 wrote:You could do like Don (Flboy) and mount the AC unit inside and then just do some proper venting. You could easily do it this way without cutting studs.
Dons AC build starts about here: viewtopic.php?f=42&t=65498&start=240

That's the Don I mentioned in my post.

All the casements I've found are much higher BTU's and weigh more than a small window. But if someone finds something please share details.


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Thanks guys

Yes I'm leaning towards what Don has done..I actually emailed him this afternoon to see if he could tell me where he picked up the side and top vent. The problem I see with the side wall vent is most of them look to have a lip which would extend inside the wall (if that makes sense..like the frame on an RV window). I can't find any vents smaller than 16" in length which is what I am from side stud to stud. So when I cut to match the vent I'm sure it will be longer than the length between two studs..And thanks ok..Don't mind cutting the outside sheathing to match vent but if it's longer than in between the studs I would have to cut through a stud for the vent frame. Does that make sense and any thoughts otherwise

Cheers
Al

Same issue I'm facing. Don's been at youth camp but may be back now.
The vents are RV fridge- I'll double check. I have an older supply book.
I have PM McDave to see if 2 smaller vents would be enough. McDave is HVAC. Dons is an electrical engineer, both are very helpful to others, needing help.
Also another member is swapping portable to window. I'll try to find that user's link.
Please post all you learn and what you go with.
Thanks


AC Swapped Out

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_ ... Ft%3D68719

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yycwrangler wrote: 16" in length which is what I am from side stud to stud.

Sorry not arguing, but if that's your inside-studs space why wouldn't a narrow unit that fits in there, like the one I mentioned, be suitable?

John61CT wrote:

yycwrangler wrote: 16" in length which is what I am from side stud to stud.

Sorry not arguing, but if that's your inside-studs space why wouldn't a narrow unit that fits in there, like the one I mentioned, be suitable?

Not speaking for yycwrangler, but those were kinda pricey. Regular window units are only $100 to $200.

My studs are 16" on center so 15" inside. I had to cut a stud to install the exhaust vent I chose for my build... There may have been other ways, but I wanted to make sure I had good ventilation with how I chose to mount my AC (not flush to side of trailer wall or sticking out the side). I know folks are adverse to cutting studs, but it is not a big deal when the walls are off for insulation... Can be done without welding if the studs are the "P-hat" type.


Another thing I had in mind is that I may someday have to replace the AC and when I do, I may go larger... all I'll need to do in that case is adjust he blue foam.. the vent does not change...

May be able to find a good vent for the space you want without cutting studs... especially if 5000 BTU is all that is going to be used. Lot's of ways to solve that.

Why cut the stud to fit the vent, if the vent has a "lip" just cut the lip to fit around the stud and leave the flange in place. This is my plan when I shamelessly copy flboy's design....

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DirtyD1833 wrote:Why cut the stud to fit the vent, if the vent has a "lip" just cut the lip to fit around the stud and leave the flange in place. This is my plan when I shamelessly copy flboy's design....

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I've also thought about doing this. Some vent designs would work. But not in my vee. I have one other idea that is 2 smaller vents one on each side of my vee. I'm concerned that in the vee when transporting CTC will have updraft between truck and trailer. This may force air and water into vents. So if I used 2, 6 inch (duct) furnace vents. Something like this I'd need to block/close them off. So I thought deck plates on the inside of CTC. Well ok, that might be a plan. But how do I put the covers on behind an enclosed AC? Now one other of my problems is I do not want to cut the roof. I don't want my CTC higher. But I have a slanted vee. So could I put a roof vent in the slanted part of the vee? Build a water dam for the upper side ?
I agree that cutting a stud is best done before walls are up. But in my case I didn't want a window until portable failed to keep CTC cool. So I'm limited to where a window unit can go.
I should have planned for the failure and had a secondary prefab in place, for another AC before "completing" my CTC.
Another thing to remember when "copying" is that while different makes of CT's seem the same. There can be differences that go unnoticed until to late. I copied my own loft/lift bed. Knowing bed size would be different. I asked my friends to order a certain trailer. They went to a different CT maker&size. So I had to re figure everything to build the "copy".
But the kicker is their bed came out much nicer than mine.


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Padilen, you could you just build two "access" doors in the V-Nose that open up for when the AC is on? When in travel, they would be solid and closed up.

flboy wrote:Padilen, you could you just build two "access" doors in the V-Nose that open up for when the AC is on? When in travel, they would be solid and closed up.

I may have to. Every idea I can come up with has issues. If I went as high as possible centered in vee. My access and ventilation for my PD 4045 is blocked. So why bother with a roof vent. Moving AC to right wall by door, puts exhaust under awning. I'm not sure if noise would be a issue, for sitting out under awning. Of course it's behind the door when door is open but I wouldn't have AC on with door opened. Plus I like the idea of fan mode on AC flowing across length of CTC. Across it would be "trapped" in bathroom. I don't think the shower curtain can prevent it. So that makes the center of vee the location.
I'll try to draw my idea. But I have little ability. If idea works I might be able to have a clothes rod - or closet! And open floor area that I like for kayak & gear.


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Great discussion.

Firstly I like that idea of cutting a notch around a stud instead of actually cutting the stuff itself.

The sound, if I put the AC on the passenger side, also has bothered me, so my plan is to put it on drivers side so wouldn't bother me while sitting out on the passenger side of trailer. Mount it in a shelf right over the wheel so as not to put more weight in the front or back.

I want to do Don's idea but I also want to be able to take the unit out while travelling, so as not to have a heavy unit sitting so high up bouncing down the road..I imagine if I had some compressible foamies I would be able to do this successfully.

As for why I didn't feel that I could fit a 15.5" in a 16 OC studs. I would be worried about having to cut a door that the unit could slide out when in use. So that door has a frame and I wonder if the 16" between studs would be enough space with a door frame inserted. Also those mini units seem darn expensive.

Thoughts

Al