Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Iv read even though there are adapters available, damage has occurred..

My thought was to buy the adapter, and then add more support buy welding braces from the bottom of the adapter up to the frame of the fiver maybe 16" back fro the pin box..

Reason for this is because Iv located a bare fiver frame ready for my creation..

https://iowacity.craigslist.org/tro/d/2 ... 45480.html

rebar, Howdy;

The best advise I can give is what my Pop gave me many years ago.
"When ya have a question, go find an expert and ask them." I would,
if I were in your shoes find a reputable RV repair / Trailer repair shop
/ facility and ask them your question. I would also ask them how they
would go about 'beefing it up if necessary and anything else you may
think of and ask for their number in case you come up with more questions.

Best I can do for ya. Hope you find out what you need.

hank

Why not use it as 5th wheel?
Ive owned many gooseneck stock or flatbeds. Never an issue.
I bought a 5th wheel, put a gooseneck adapter on and hated it.
I went back to 5th wheel useing a B&W that fit my hitch assembly.
It pulled like a dream that way.

Well, I just learned a few things from this guy. Might help.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7W60hcTq60

McDave

as one who has farm implement and stock trailers that already utilize the "gooseneck" ball in my p/u bed i had my 5th wheel r/v adapted to use it before i picked it up from the dealer

yes, dealer installed

before trading it off i pulled it thousands of miles, many of which were on questionable road surfaces like into & out of deer leases...

the hitch configuration gave me no trouble

my decision was partially made because i didn't want a large metal sawhorse w/ a toilet seat on top taking up space in my bed while on the road, nor did i want to have to change the towing configuration every time i hooked onto something different

"they say" the 5th wheel configuration pulls better than the gooseneck, maybe it does

the physics of a 5th wheel n pin box vs a 2 5/16ths" ball n socket can be argued to way beyond nausium

for me it was simple convenience that drove the decision

while the frame is nekkid inspect the pin box mounts and reinforce them if you feel they are weak and intend to convert it to gooseneck

any time i have my druthers i prefer bumper pull to either of the above and fortunately my tv is an F-350, 7.3, automatic, quad cab, 4x4

the linear towing configuration offers an easier ride than anything that involves 5th wheel or gooseneck hitches in my personal experiences which include several hundred thousand miles of towing

just this old man's 2 cents worth

sw

Thanks everyone.

I went to look at the trailer, but the frame is twisted.. I should have looked closer at the pictures and not sure on how to correct the twist.

swoody126 wrote:I had my 5th wheel r/v adapted to use it before i picked it up from the dealer yes, dealer installed.
My decision was partially made because i didn't want a large metal sawhorse w/ a toilet seat on top taking up space in my bed while on the road, nor did i want to have to change the towing configuration every time i hooked onto something different
I prefer bumper pull to either of the above and fortunately my tv is an F-350, 7.3, automatic, quad cab, 4x4

That's interesting swoody.. Iv always read the opposite, and I'm guessing fifth-wheels must be cheaper to build.

I'm looking for something off road-able, but slowly realizing I need to build something because of all the failures I'm reading about.. Store bought stick campers just don't survive rough pot hole washboard gravel roads. A short goose neck (was going to shorten the above trailer) would work well and decrease my turning radius for tight Colorado fire road switch backs..

I think goose necks have more articulation than fifth wheel hitch's.

I guess I will keep looking..

One would think a 5th wheel would articulate more, but not neccessarily true. The ball is inside a tube with a base locking around the neck of the ball.
The B&H invisible hitch I had allows use of a ball or 5th wheel in the same hitch hole. No sawhorse as said. Clear deck space. Ive pulled both types of trailers up single track washed out roads in Montana. Never had an issue either way, except for the flex in the 5th wheel from a gooseneck adapter. You change the total dynamics of pivot point. Its common sense.
Also, as a side note, not that I ever did it....Montana used to, may still allow, a passenger to ride in a 5th wheel and hitch. But not a gooseneck. Guess they figured a 5th wheel is safer? Kind of dumb.

fourbtgait wrote:The B&H invisible hitch I had allows use of a ball or 5th wheel in the same hitch hole. No sawhorse as said. Clear deck space. Ive pulled both types of trailers up single track washed out roads in Montana.

Thanks fourbtgait, but I'm not finding anything about the B&H invisible hitch... Did you mean the B&W Companion hitch and do you run a flatbed?

http://www.turnoverball.com/products/si ... heel-hitch

Frankly, I sold my cummins van and toyhauler so my garage is empty and wallet full. But I still cant find anything I really want or can justify the price.. More the later.

If I go with a gooseneck, I dont think I would be comfortable with a regular truck bed because of the contact stories Iv read about. Contact between the trailer and the top of the bed sides even over Paved transitions/driveways, let alone off road. I would only feel comfortable with a flatbed which Im not to fond of in the first place..

rebar wrote:

fourbtgait wrote:The B&H invisible hitch I had allows use of a ball or 5th wheel in the same hitch hole. No sawhorse as said. Clear deck space. Ive pulled both types of trailers up single track washed out roads in Montana.

Thanks fourbtgait, but I'm not finding anything about the B&H invisible hitch... Did you mean the B&W Companion hitch and do you run a flatbed?

http://www.turnoverball.com/products/si ... heel-hitch

Frankly, I sold my cummins van and toyhauler so my garage is empty and wallet full. But I still cant find anything I really want or can justify the price.. More the later.

If I go with a gooseneck, I dont think I would be comfortable with a regular truck bed because of the contact stories Iv read about. Contact between the trailer and the top of the bed sides even over Paved transitions/driveways, let alone off road. I would only feel comfortable with a flatbed which Im not to fond of in the first place..

You are correct, B&W. i had it right in my first post. Both pu and flatbed.
I only had contact once, side rail of the truck when I put a tire in the ditch. Never contact with the tailgate unless I forgot to put it down to unhook, or did not have the hitch raised far enough to back under.
Goosenecks built now, from a good manufacturer, allows you to raise/lower the hitch pipe with 2 large bolts.
I have never heard or seen anyone strike on a transition strip. I suppose it can happen, but that means a 5th wheel would also.
I would much rather pull a 5th wheel or gooseneck than a bumper pull. A world of difference in stability, pulling.

Glad you saw the twisted frame! IAs soon as I clicked on the photo I saw it but didn't want to be negative and say anything. Lol

Augie Dog wrote:Glad you saw the twisted frame! IAs soon as I clicked on the photo I saw it but didn't want to be negative and say anything. Lol

But I found another and its special. Not convinced its worthy of a makeover as the axles might be 3k. If I shortened it (moved back axle ahead of front)and limited it to a small camper and room for two bikes, or one bike and a quad. It might be a good choice, if its straight.

Another road trip maybe,

https://quadcities.craigslist.org/tro/d/utility-gooseneck-trailer/6323754643.html

I asked Which gooseneck for washed out dirt roads and switchbacks ? over on the pirate 4x4 forum and found people with tons of experience regarding that.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/2573537-gooseneck-washed-out-dirt-roads-switchbacks.html#post42044281

The frame on the trailer looks pretty light weight if you are thinking rough, mountain forest service roads.

fourbtgait wrote:The frame on the trailer looks pretty light weight if you are thinking rough, mountain forest service roads.

Yeah pretty wimpy. If I cut the trailer down to 12', it might survive after reinforcing.

Build sleeping quarters above the gooseneck, and have a 5x7 kitchen/bathroom below on the trailer which leaves 7' of deck space for a couple of toys. 3K axles should be adequate because the gooseneck will support allot of the weight.

Problem with that is that its useless for other towing needs. I just bought a acre spread, and will need a general purpose trailer like a 18' 14K flatbed anyway.

rebar, Howdy;

rebar wrote:

fourbtgait wrote:The frame on the trailer looks pretty light weight if you are thinking rough, mountain forest service roads.

Yeah pretty wimpy. If I cut the trailer down to 12', it might survive after reinforcing.

Build sleeping quarters above the gooseneck, and have a 5x7 kitchen/bathroom below on the trailer which leaves 7' of deck space for a couple of toys. 3K axles should be adequate because the gooseneck will support allot of the weight.

Problem with that is that its useless for other towing needs. I just bought a acre spread, and will need a general purpose trailer like a 18' 14K flatbed anyway.

From what you're describing with the indoor/outdoor set-up why not just mount a truck camper (slide-in),
onto the front part of a open car hauler trailer. See those all over the place around here. Sumtin like;
http://www.truckcampermagazine.com/wp-c ... chairs.jpg


hank

rebar that last link was a TT frame someone added the goose neck hitch to. Pass on it unless you want to weld a lot of metal into it.