VWScott's 8.5x24 Toy Hauler Build

[VWScott]

I'm not going to lie... i have way to many hobbies.. But my logic is "ye who dies with the most toys, WINS!" We just got rid of our travel trailer in hopes of building our own Toy Hauler from a new 24' cargo trailer. The goal is to build a space to haul our Teryx or VW Beetle to a fun camping destination.. Most places we will camp will have electric hookups and a public bath house so we plan for zero plumbing at this time (which may change), but will have a portable toilet just in case. 2 beds that hinge up to the wall.. storage storage storage is a must. TV.. Surround Sound ..... we will see

[Iconfabul8]

Nice! You should be able to have some swingin parties in all that space. I had a 24 footer many moons ago before ctc's were a thing. I had visions back then of how nice a living section in the front would be. Looking forward to your build!

[VWScott]

got the rest of the inner sheeting off for the next stage (insulation and wires). Made a few tape lines on the floor for potential cabinet placement.. I plan to run a 13,500 btu dometic roof top AC unit which uses a standard roof vent opening.. not sure if i should just use the current roof vent hole for it or make another hole just for it and retain the roof vent.. Im sure having a roof vent would be nice at times but not sure if its 100% necessary. Also noticed that there is a gap at the bottom of the wall between the floor and the outer skin that will need to be closed off while insulating.. not sure how I will approach that yet. Also received my Progressive Dynamics 35 amp distribution panel.

[McDave]

Good Stuff!
I like the direction this is going already.
Good Luck!

McDave

[hankaye]

VWScott, Howdy;

I have the same gap at the bottom of my exterior skin to frame juncture. Been pondering about
that for a few years now and am of the opinion that it was/is a design feature to help prevent
moisture from creating mold and rot on/in the wall panels. I've not yet insulated mine (been almost
4 years now), but when I do I going to gule some screen trim (1/8"X1"), to the outboard facing side
of the insulation to continue the breathability and hopefully keep on preventing rot and mold, if that's
why those gaps are there to begin with ...

hank

[VWScott]

VWScott, Howdy;

I have the same gap at the bottom of my exterior skin to frame juncture. Been pondering about
that for a few years now and am of the opinion that it was/is a design feature to help prevent
moisture from creating mold and rot on/in the wall panels. I've not yet insulated mine (been almost
4 years now), but when I do I going to gule some screen trim (1/8"X1"), to the outboard facing side
of the insulation to continue the breathability and hopefully keep on preventing rot and mold, if that's
why those gaps are there to begin with ...

hank

I feel that the gaps are there due to the simple design of the trailer.. it was just easier to leave the gaps then to not have them in the first place. I don't like them and plan to fill them. Our camper had insulation in some sort of bag/vapor barrier on the underside of the trailer with no visible gaps. If i can recreate that to some extent, I will be happy.

On another note i received some LED interior lights, porch light, and LED flood lights for the rear above the bay door. I ordered the rooftop AC unit (dometic 13,500 BTU). I also ordered a 24"x18" lockable door as I plan to add a fuel canister storage compartment in the left front corner of the trailer... I plan to remove some of the wood flooring in the compartment area and replace with expanded metal.. build the walls and roof of the compartment skinned in sheet metal and sealed to not allow fumes into the trailer but to allow it to vent through the expanded metal floor.. that's my plan anyways.

[rhelvey22]

VWScott, Howdy;

I have the same gap at the bottom of my exterior skin to frame juncture. Been pondering about
that for a few years now and am of the opinion that it was/is a design feature to help prevent
moisture from creating mold and rot on/in the wall panels. I've not yet insulated mine (been almost
4 years now), but when I do I going to gule some screen trim (1/8"X1"), to the outboard facing side
of the insulation to continue the breathability and hopefully keep on preventing rot and mold, if that's
why those gaps are there to begin with ...

hank

What about mice? Where I live, they find their way into everything!

[McDave]

Vented cargo door with metal window screen inside. 3in. diam floor vent w/screen. LP tank and deep cycle battery, fresh water pump and black tank drain hose stored here. Sealed from cabin interior.

McDave

[hankaye]

rhelvey22, Howdy;

VWScott, Howdy;

I have the same gap at the bottom of my exterior skin to frame juncture. Been pondering about
that for a few years now and am of the opinion that it was/is a design feature to help prevent
moisture from creating mold and rot on/in the wall panels. I've not yet insulated mine (been almost
4 years now), but when I do I going to gule some screen trim (1/8"X1"), to the outboard facing side
of the insulation to continue the breathability and hopefully keep on preventing rot and mold, if that's
why those gaps are there to begin with ...

hank

What about mice? Where I live, they find their way into everything!

Haven't seen any sign of them toothy critters yet (knock on wood), and it's been almost 4 years now.
I've heard that steel wool with expanding foam works for some folks for larger holes and openings,
otherwise regular metal window screen material works for stuff as McDave mentioned.

hank

[hankaye]

VWScott, Howdy:

I have the same gap at the bottom of my exterior skin to frame juncture. Been pondering about
that for a few years now and am of the opinion that it was/is a design feature to help prevent
moisture from creating mold and rot on/in the wall panels. I've not yet insulated mine (been almost
4 years now), but when I do I going to gule some screen trim (1/8"X1"), to the outboard facing side
of the insulation to continue the breathability and hopefully keep on preventing rot and mold, if that's
why those gaps are there to begin with ...

hank

I feel that the gaps are there due to the simple design of the trailer.. it was just easier to leave the gaps then to not have them in the first place. I don't like them and plan to fill them. Our camper had insulation in some sort of bag/vapor barrier on the underside of the trailer with no visible gaps. If i can recreate that to some extent, I will be happy.

On another note i received some LED interior lights, porch light, and LED flood lights for the rear above the bay door. I ordered the rooftop AC unit (dometic 13,500 BTU). I also ordered a 24"x18" lockable door as I plan to add a fuel canister storage compartment in the left front corner of the trailer... I plan to remove some of the wood flooring in the compartment area and replace with expanded metal.. build the walls and roof of the compartment skinned in sheet metal and sealed to not allow fumes into the trailer but to allow it to vent through the expanded metal floor.. that's my plan anyways.

The " insulation in some sort of bag/vapor barrier on the underside of the trailer with no visible gaps. " you mentioned
is perhaps what is called coroplast https://www.homedepot.com/p/Coroplast-4 ... /205351385
I have some running side to side front to bac under my 5th wheel RV I call Home. Works good, nuttin fancy just screwed
to the frame with self-tapping cap screws.

hank

[VWScott]

no real mice problem my way.. i just don't want rain water to make it up into my walls as I tow it down the road... I got my main power cord and fuel storage door today.. AC should be here Friday. I hope to get it the trailer parked in a way that I can do some welding inside it as i need to reinforce the roof area where the AC will go.. I will also need to reinforce/build a frame for the fuel storage door. Weather looks good for this weekend so hopefully progress photos will be possible.

[norgewizard]

Looking good

[VWScott]

Got a bit done today on the trailer today. I reinforced the roof for the 80lb AC unit that will soon be up there.. Used some 1x2 tubing with an 11 gauge wall thickness.. its real stout now... Next was the access door for my fuel container storage compartment. 1x1 square tubing was used to frame it in.. very pleased with how that turned out... Last thing I got done was I mounted my rear flood lights for times when I need to wrench in the PM. If the weather holds out I may get more done tomorrow.

[McDave]

Nice metal work there VW. Does that VW pull a trailer pretty good? They are pretty strong runners.
So, I have similar ramp lights and have them wired for back up lights as well. Helps a lot. I just used a relay triggered by reverse lights on truck, but powered by house battery, and a switch just inside ramp. Relay prevents backfeeding and such if trailer is left plugged in. Those lights are very bright, and I have mine angled a little to shine down and out so I can aim the trailer into driveways or parking spots with mirrors.
You are off to a great start, enjoy!

McDave

[VWScott]

Nice metal work there VW. Does that VW pull a trailer pretty good? They are pretty strong runners.
So, I have similar ramp lights and have them wired for back up lights as well. Helps a lot. I just used a relay triggered by reverse lights on truck, but powered by house battery, and a switch just inside ramp. Relay prevents backfeeding and such if trailer is left plugged in. Those lights are very bright, and I have mine angled a little to shine down and out so I can aim the trailer into driveways or parking spots with mirrors.
You are off to a great start, enjoy!

McDave

Thanks.. The Touareg does pretty good.. We used to have a diesel Touareg which did fantastic but this one is a V8 gas... All Touaregs have a 7800lb towing capacity regardless of engine, but its the tongue weight you have to watch.. no more than 615lb at the tongue. I wont use the Touareg for this trailer though as I have a diesel Ram.. As far as the lights, I plan to do the same with a relay for backup use.. you can never have too much light when backing up at night.