Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

not much new to document.. got the inner structure for the fuel container storage compartment done. will be able to fit 2 5 gallon containers. The main 110v power inlet is also installed. I have been waiting on some items to show up so I can finalize the cabinet design. Our Porta-poti showed up as well as our sound system.

fuel storage compartment is complete.. really liking how it turned out. got the roof AC unit installed and temporarily wired up to allow for more comfortable interior working conditions.... Also started on the TV mount in the nose of the trailer.. my wife has decided to donate our bedroom TV for the project (55"LCD) as she feels we need a new one. hopefully get most of the trailer wired and insulated this week.

Oh yeah.. That is nice. Well thought out and executed. Professional results. You get what you play for...Well Done Sir.

McDave

McDave wrote:Oh yeah.. That is nice. Well thought out and executed. Professional results. You get what you play for...Well Done Sir.

McDave

Thanks McDave.... Its a slow process, but its turning out how I am envisioning it..

Very nice work. The gas compartment looks great. Nice looking AC. I remember getting my AC running shortly after insulating so I could work in the cool also. Good plan! Hot days ahead.

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Nice work indeed! For the compartment door, where did you get that? Were there any other parts you needed to fit it to a cargo trailer?




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rmcrist wrote:Nice work indeed! For the compartment door, where did you get that? Were there any other parts you needed to fit it to a cargo trailer?




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I got the door on Ebay.. just searched camper door and narrowed the search to condition "NEW".. it comes with the frame and keyed lock.. past that you will have to frame it in on the inside.

I got started on the insulation in areas where electrical will not be ran. Not pictured but i did get the whole roof insulated. I really need to figure out how i want to insulate the floor from the underside. I may talk with a spray foam company. I also completed both full size and queen size bed frames and hinge mounts. The full is just ahead of the inner wheelhouse and the queen is just behind the wheelhouse. The frames will eventually be sheeted with 5mm wood and framed with 1x8 stained wood surrounding the mattress.

OK, so these hinges have a slot that allows the bed to pivot and keep the clearance for the mattress to fit between the frame and wall when in the raised position ? And then, that gap pretty much goes away when the bed is lowered?
Genius, I tell you. Elegance through simplicity. The DIY Murphy Bed solution many have been looking for.
Nice work, VWScott.

McDave

Possible floor insulation solution. Not cheap, but an option. Maybe. It says it covers 105 board feet. I believe that would be 105 sqft @ 1" for R-6. Guaranteed to ruin your clothes.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/HANDI-FOAM-P ... thena=true

McDave

McDave wrote:OK, so these hinges have a slot that allows the bed to pivot and keep the clearance for the mattress to fit between the frame and wall when in the raised position ? And then, that gap pretty much goes away when the bed is lowered?
Genius, I tell you. Elegance through simplicity. The DIY Murphy Bed solution many have been looking for.
Nice work, VWScott.

McDave

yes McDave, the wall side of the hinge is slotted and the bed frame side just slide up and down the slot as it it pivoted up and down.. was the easiest way I could see to do it. The only issue i see is the frame has to slide against the floor as it pivots up and down which will destroy the linoleum i plan to lay down.. i plan to affix a small sheet of metal or HDPE on top of the linoleum in that area to take the abuse. The queen bed in the back is going to get really close to the ceiling so I cant put down anything very thick.

VWScott, Howdy;

Perhaps you might consider using a pair of these, depending on the distance that the
frame travels. These are installed in regular RVs for the slide out sections to run across.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-an ... 03480.html

or

https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-013- ... B0031NFUHQ

hank

If you were to "relieve" or round off the hard 90 degree corner and apply Teflon bearing strips and runners as Hank suggested it may eliminate the ceiling clearance issue. Or some type of rollers at the contact point?

McDave

McDave wrote:If you were to "relieve" or round off the hard 90 degree corner and apply Teflon bearing strips and runners as Hank suggested it may eliminate the ceiling clearance issue. Or some type of rollers at the contact point?

McDave

I do plan to round off the corners a bit which should help a lot.. the slider strips are probably made of high density polyethylene (HDPE) which I have a couple sheets of laying around.. it stay slick and almost greasy like.