Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

It's not as simple as cutting in an AC and few windows, and hitting the road, is it?

I picked up my 7x16 trailer last week and got it home.
The ride was a little bouncy. Hopefully a little weight inside will calm it down some.


Off-the-lot, but shiny new. Made on the 11th of this month... Not even dirty yet.
Hopefully, the sale of the boat in the picture will finance a good part of the build.

We've been toying with floor plans, then having to adjust them to the reality of where the framing members are, etc.

There's a wealth of information here. You guys already talked me in to going bigger than I had planned, and I'm glad I did.
I'd appreciate some thoughts on a couple of things, if you don't mind.

Insulation and AC...
Instead of removing the 3/8" plywood on the walls, I was thinking about applying wood furring strips over the top of it, with 3/4" R-5 foam board and a 1/4" hardwood ply interior skin. I don't mind sacrificing the inch of thickness. Is there any problem with this idea? Besides being less work,would the air space between the aluminum and the 3/8 have any R-value at all?
The roof will probably get two layers of 3/4 foam and furring strips on the beams to attach the ceiling.
I was going to hold off on the floor and see if it was really necessary.

We're in Southwest Florida. We like the heat and spend a lot of time outdoors even in the summer. I've always worked in an open-air shop, and like summer better than winter. The exception is at night. Gotta have AC in the summer for sleeping. I'll probably go with a small window unit. I love flboy's built-in over the refrigerator, but don't want to cut my roof. Right now, I'm thinking about the drawer slide method behind a down swinging baggage hatch. Its the only place where I'd have to cut framing. We're looking at narrow windows.
If I can get it down to low 80s during the day and mid 70s after dark, I'd call it good. And if the weather's nice... We'll by wide open.

What about 110v refrigerators?
I'd like to use a built in, front vent. But would it add a significant amount of heat to the equation? I'd rather avoid outside venting. I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible.

I think that's about it for now. THANKS!

nice trailer Im sure you will make a nice camper as far as the insolation thing I would remove the plywood and install
1 1/2 of insolation hard board then either reinstall the wood or install a nice looking wood I think you would get better
R factor that way but that is my 2 cents worth but keep us informed as to what you do with your trailer

Start a thread for each topic, and asking specific questions concisely after doing your initial research, will get you more and better answers.

Karebru:

Congrats on the new trailer - looks very nice.

I agree with BC toys, I'd take off the 3/8 ply and put insulation between the ribs then reinstall the plywood. Only caveat: check to see if mfr used "real" screws to install the plywood (NEO does) not the nails that have screw heads and are a b***h to remove without damaging the wood, so many here have said.

Irregardless I would still take off the plywood - be a good opportunity to check the mfr's wiring. I replaced all of the "suitcase" connectors - I just didn't want to have a problem down the road trying to sort out a wiring problem behind the finished walls/ceiling.

Good luck with your build. Don't forget the pictures.

Hope this helps.

CoventryKid wrote:Karebru:

Congrats on the new trailer - looks very nice.

I agree with BC toys, I'd take off the 3/8 ply and put insulation between the ribs then reinstall the plywood. Only caveat: check to see if mfr used "real" screws to install the plywood (NEO does) not the nails that have screw heads and are a b***h to remove without damaging the wood, so many here have said.

Irregardless I would still take off the plywood - be a good opportunity to check the mfr's wiring. I replaced all of the "suitcase" connectors - I just didn't want to have a problem down the road trying to sort out a wiring problem behind the finished walls/ceiling.

Good luck with your build. Don't forget the pictures.

Hope this helps.

Of course, you guys are right.
Even though I bought this trailer to hack it up, it's brand new. I have to get beyond the, 'don't even get fingerprints on it' stage... It'll pass.
Great point about the wiring. Just knowing where it is, for starters. I'm notorious for screwing through drywall in to water pipes.
Crimp connectors on the wiring too. Maybe even heat shrink.

Yep... Thanks for the heads up. I can't get a single one of those pretty little #1 Philips heads to turn. They aren't soft, either. Drilling the heads off would take a lot of time and create a big pile of blue drill bits. I just tried one.
I'll be installing finished paneling of some kind. I'm not worried about buggering up the plywood. One of these might make quick work out of getting the heads pulled through the ply.
Then I can just cut the nails off flush with the steel.

What a pain to have to go to all that work just to remove the plywood walls!!

I didn't realize at the time I purchased my NEO that NEO uses proper "double square head" screws. Fooled me at first as I thought the screws were Torx! But when I tried to insert an appropriately-sized Torx bit the fit was loose. I remember uttering a few choice words about having to go find this new screwdriver bit. I'm not sure that I didn't even ask here on the forum as to what the heck they were.

I guess some mfrs use the screw-headed nails cause they're quick to use. But I guess the double square head is also quicker than just a single square head (we know these as "Robertson" screws here in Canada) - not so much fiddling to get the bit seated. I know I really appreciated NEO's use of proper screws. Thank you NEO!

I know this doesn't help much, but if you've got a reasonably easy way to get the plywood off, you'll know that when your build is all done, you won't have a problem down the road with anything that was hidden behind the plywood you didn't remove.

A little frustration in the beginning but then the real fun begins!

Also, while you have the plywood off, you could check for leaks. And caulk around the joints. Have fun!


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10-4 on using those "things" to remove the plywood, then adding foam board insulation. I look forward to watching your build. Good luck!

A little frustration in the beginning but then the real fun begins!

And better to avoid, "I wish I hads and I shouldas" down the road.

Thanks guys.

Any internal steelwork can get a quick extra coat of rust preventative paint too

The best method I have ever seen for dealing with the dreaded screw nails is to use a small hole saw and a guide block to get started. The cool thing about using a hole saw, is the board will come off the wall and if you leave the plugs attached to the wall, then you simply slip the board back over the plugs and the boards go right back where they originally were.
The secret to drilling with a hole saw without a drill bit in the center, is the guide block. While not the exact application, the video below shows the rough idea of using a guide block. You don't have to make the hole saw as in the video. Also, since you have nothing to clamp the guide block to, you will have to hold it by hand. The guide block only has to be used to get the hole saw started. To add a little extra holding grip, you can run a couple sharp screws (drywall type) into the block till the tips barely poke through. Then give the block a little tap with a hammer after you line up the hole over the screw. The tips of the screws will dig slightly into the wall and keep it from wandering while the hole saw is starting.

"Could'a, Should'a, Would'a in one hand, 10 cents and a donut in the other..". I don't know, Dad said strange stuff all the time.
Hey Karebru,
Nice spankin' new trailer you got there. So now you got a clean slate, a blank canvas if you will. And it can be anything you choose and desire. If you can dream it, you can build it. If you don't have certain skills this is the perfect opportunity to add another notch to your tool belt. Information is easy to come by these days, but understanding is still a precious commodity. Doing a conversion doesn't have to be a race, probably more like a marathon. You can always add or change or update whatever/whenever you want.
A couple tips,
Make many floor plans. It is easy to make changes on paper so try different configurations or change the equipment etc. till you are satisfied.
Inspect and correct all wiring. Manufactures like to take short cuts with wiring. Check for grommets and dependable connections. Solder and shrink tube all connections. If you don't have a wiring diagram tis is a good time to make one.
Check for leaks while you have it apart. Check for missing welds, screws and rivets. Treat any metal for rust protection.
If you will be adding substantial weight, be aware of the trailers weight and balance and hitch height and how the tow vehicle is affected.
Have fun with the build and don't forget to go camping.

Good luck!

McDave

Have fun with the build and don't forget to go camping.

We already have a list of our minimum requirements for the first trip. Construction will be sequenced accordingly.
I actually "started" the project today. I got out a heat gun and Goo-Gone and removed some of the manufacturer's stickers.
The largest of which said something like, "Warning: Do not sleep in here!" ...
(I'm a boater. I wouldn't sleep inside anything without a carbon monoxide alarm.)
I've ordered a couple of the mini-hole saw screw extractors so I can remove the plywood.
And yes... The wiring needs attention. I noticed a red one pinched and sticking out at the bottom of one of my taillights.
The only way to get at it is from inside.

Does the plywood add necessary structural rigidity to the trailer? Is it safe to make a trip to the Depot with it to pick up my insulation board with the plywood removed?
...I guess I'll have a better picture of things once the plywood is out.

I wouldn't take it anywhere without the plywood inside. Just as on a house build, the plywood provides the diagonal bracing that keeps everything square. A metal frame welded cargo trailer is stronger than 2x4 framing, but I still wouldn't trust it not to twist something on our roads here. Too many frost heaves!

Maybe if you just temporarily put up a couple of sheets they might brace it enough for a short trip.

Welcome to your build. If you're like me, learning and planning along the way, things will go very slowly, but it is progress! Ask away and the forum usually provides. Very knowledgeable and helpful group here. The search function is also good to find specific images or topics. We look forward to your build!