Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Here is the link to a Ventline RV Refrigerator Wall Vent and Access Door - 13-3/4" x 21-7/8.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Vents-and-F ... 4-3PW.html

I am thinking about installing a window air conditioner with the exhaust vent on the sidewall of my trailer. However, in so doing, I do not want to cut out a wall post because I already have about 3 inches of insulation on the walls covered with plywood and would have a hard time installing reinforcements to accommodate the cut out post … especially given the fact that my trailer has aluminum posts and I do not have the ability to mig or tig weld aluminum nor do I want to fabricate some sort of bolt on bracings (both of which would be hard to do without tearing out the wall cavity).

My trailer has aluminum wall posts on 16” centers.

Question: Do you think it would be possible to install this 21 inch wide vent without cutting a wall post?
My thinking is that I could cut out the wall opening, spanning a wall post (by cutting holes on both sides of the post), notch out the vent at the top and bottom of the perimeter flange, and then attach the vent to the exterior wall, spanning the post.

In so doing, I would offset the vent to one side of the interfering post so that the latch would clear the post.

The above link has a series of photos showing the front and back of the vent.

Do you think this is feasible? Or have I completely misunderstood what is possible?

Also, I am concerned about whether there would be sufficient air flow with this particular vent. I would be using an 8,000 BTU air conditioner.
If this vent does not have sufficient venting, do you think one of the Dometic plastic refrigerator vents would work?
Thanks for your help.

Hader wrote:http://httpswww.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=67319&start=105#p1207904

What Hader said.

Basically, you might want to consider building the a/c into a cabinet where you isolate the exhaust (hot air coming from the fins on the back of the unit) separate from the intake (the holes in the aluminum on the sides and top/bottom depending on unit). Then you vent the exhaust and allow the intake to suck in air and you have an a/c unit without cutting an aluminum frame stud.

Hader vented his in the floor and I’m in the process of doing mine in the v-nose with vents in the side and roof and using inline duct fans to push air in and pull exhaust out.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

featherliteCT1 wrote:Do you think this is feasible? Or have I completely misunderstood what is possible?

It is feasible, but you will have to isolate your intake from your exhaust somehow. The intake comes in byway of all those slots around the sides and top of the AC unit and those have also got to be isolated from the inside compartment(living space.) This is why you see those who mount their AC units inside always have 2 vents. You need to look real close at what Hader just posted and study his install. It is one of the best stealth/no stud cut installs I've seen. You could always bring in air up from a hole in the floor and blow out a vent. And if the vent doesn't quite do the job, just open the vent when using the AC. Infact I would be inclined to just put a solid door on and open it when the AC is on.

@ Featherlite,
I am using that door or one exactly like it to vent the battery/LP/ slinky compartment. It was made for a dometic Reefer to access the works and allow air in for combustion. I did have to cut a stud and frame in a header and a sill. I needed to be able to pass a LP tank thru. I think that it works well as a passive vent and for access but when you are moving a couple hundred cfm all those louvers will reduce the actual vent area possibly by half or more. If the vent is larger than the condenser area it may be ok. But will the door serve any purpose? If you just need an opening that is vented, the reefer vents with large wide slots are probably able to pass more air, and you wouldn't need to cut stud and frame, but you may need to "relieve" the vent to allow for stud. There are PTAC's that have intake and exhaust located at rear and are internally ducted to keep separate, then directed by the louvers of the rear vent panel so hot blows up and to right, intake comes in from left and below for example. These are the thru the wall type you see at motels etc. This gives basic idea.

The PTAC concept could work, in theory. But they are 4 ft wide and if noise is consideration forget it. I own 3 of these and they are much , much louder than any rooftop. Also about 800.00 ea and heavy. But they can do a lot of work and are fairly effective as a heater as well.
When you talked about drilling holes in the studs was that to allow air to pass? I would think that would render the stud useless, so you might as well cut it and frame out. Being all aluminium and finished out Is going to mean some different consideration than most that are stripped out and steel studs. Time, effort, reworking finished walls, Hiring a welder etc. ALL come at a cost. Your time is money. Mine is over 100.00/hr. Perhaps this is the case where using the 14x14 hole that already exists to get cooling and heating in one fell swoop from a unit designed for the job makes sense? Or, maybe this is right application for a mini split? You know the saying about stepping over dollars to pick up dimes...

McDave

Edit: you did not mean cutting into the stud, just on either side thru the skin ? That makes more sense.

There is also the "through the wall" AC units , they are basically a small version of the PTAC. One of these could easily be installed without cutting a stud. But they are kinda pricey. Check out
DomoArigato's build. He went through the wall but I don't see why you would have to if you finished off the hole nice, kept the AC unit close to the wall and did a nice job ducting. I still think lifting a solid door to blow out the hot air of a regular window AC and ducting air in from under the trailer might be the best way to not cut a stud. Or go full stealth like Hader. In any case, we are just trying to heep on the ideas.

Home Depot unit

I haven't seen the smaller 8k btu thru the wall yet in this area, but the price is about the same /btu. Coleman Mach 13500 btu 469.00 Duotherm about the same. I haven't priced mini splits. Didn't you put a couple grand in polyiso in there? Shouldn't need a lot to heat or cool, unless you are in Montana. We have both kinds of weather, really really cold, like outer space, and on fire like the Sun.

McDave

Thanks for all the advice.

My plan would be to install the AC unit like flboy installed his as described and shown with photos at the below link (scroll down to about the middle of the page)

http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?p=1176629#p1176629

I have no desire to cut or drill holes into the subject stud/post. I merely want to install a wall vent without cutting the post.

McDave, I would like to install a plastic refrigerator wall vent like flboy used because of the increased air flow; however, I have never seen one in person nor have I seen a photo of the back side of one to see if the vent could be notched out from top to bottom to fit over the stud.

Below are links to a couple of photos of the plastic kind made by Dometic that might be similar to the one flboy used.

https://pantherrvproducts.com/dometic-3 ... gI3hfD_BwE

https://pantherrvproducts.com/dometic-3 ... gIetvD_BwE

So, my specific question now is if you guys think that the kind flboy used could be notched.
Now that I think about it, I might just buy one for $30 to see if it would work.

Thank you!

I don't think notching that vent will work. It insets into the wall so you would essentualy be cutting in all the way through except the flange.

You could install a surface only louver type vent, you would just need to make a wind guard on the side to make sure water cannot blow in during travel.. or just make the inside cabinet water compatible and ensure a drain path.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

I am curious what the other side of this looks like when you get done and how well it works.

Joel.brian wrote:

Hader wrote:http://httpswww.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=67319&start=105#p1207904

What Hader said.

Basically, you might want to consider building the a/c into a cabinet where you isolate the exhaust (hot air coming from the fins on the back of the unit) separate from the intake (the holes in the aluminum on the sides and top/bottom depending on unit). Then you vent the exhaust and allow the intake to suck in air and you have an a/c unit without cutting an aluminum frame stud.

Hader vented his in the floor and I’m in the process of doing mine in the v-nose with vents in the side and roof and using inline duct fans to push air in and pull exhaust out.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

phoenixbound wrote:I am curious what the other side of this looks like when you get done and how well it works.

Joel.brian wrote:

Hader wrote:http://httpswww.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=67319&start=105#p1207904

What Hader said.

Basically, you might want to consider building the a/c into a cabinet where you isolate the exhaust (hot air coming from the fins on the back of the unit) separate from the intake (the holes in the aluminum on the sides and top/bottom depending on unit). Then you vent the exhaust and allow the intake to suck in air and you have an a/c unit without cutting an aluminum frame stud.

Hader vented his in the floor and I’m in the process of doing mine in the v-nose with vents in the side and roof and using inline duct fans to push air in and pull exhaust out.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Phoenix, I’ll be completing it this weekend and be sure to take lots of photos.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Joel.brian, I look forward to seeing the kind of wall vent and fan setup you use to exhaust the hot air.

Good luck this weekend and thanks for your help.

A/C is complete! See my build page for all the pics.

7x16 TA Enclosed Cargo Trailer Camper Conversion budgeted fo
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_ ... are_type=t





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very nice! How did you decide on isolating the intake and exhaust?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

flboy wrote:Very nice! How did you decide on isolating the intake and exhaust?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Just butted up wood on the side of the unit to separate the two.
Here you can see how the exhaust cavity is sealed and isolated but the intake is still open.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk