Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

After loads of research and time looking through this forum I have specced out a custom build
for a 7x20 trailer. Primary purpose will be for mountain bike racing throughout the country with my family. I have put together some sketchup designs and trying to piece together everything I want to add myself and the stages to do so.

Specs for build which should arrive in 5 wks or less:
Added 6” interior height
Two 15x30 windows
Extended Tongue
Vent with a/c mount and brace
Vent for Maxxair fan install
Heavier gauge exterior metal
Extra matching spare
6 panel 100v/12v 30 amp electrical
Matte black finish
36” Rv style door

Will be towing with both a Tahoe and Suburban with brake controller and Andersen adjustable hitch.

One item still undecided on is flooring. I have searched this forum and read lots of options. Curious if anyone has ever used a product called Liquid Rubber from Liquid Rubber USA for a garage area. Very low VOC, can have grit added, multiple color options and no tackiness once dry. I will likely use their roofing product for the rooftop for added protection.

I plan to document the build in pictures and video along the way. Main plans, only running water will be freshwater sink and pump hookup for now and possibly outdoor shower.
Needs to sleep 5 people, thinking pull out couch to queen bed with additional full overtop on etrack and then twin bed perpendicular to queen bed near the nose.
Garage area roughly 8 ft in depth to get about 10 bikes in on a rack built with casters to roll out at race location.
Small cabinets in v nose.
Partition wall between garage and sleeping area with door.
Lovable loo toilet
Stereo system
Propane generator (CO from gas generators is a concern so likely going propane which should reduce that risk)
Rooftop A/C
Foam sheet insulation
Small solar setup if budget allows
Small freshwater tank
Ceramic heater (we race year round and have about 30 stops on the calendar annually)

Mtnadventure14, Howdy;

First ... HOWDY!!!, welcome to the madness. Looks like you've been
doing your homework to get all ready for your project. Noted that you were having a question about
floor coating/covering, well several folks have used some of the Rustoleum garage floor paint with
the specs. Here's a link to the product label. It mentions that is's ok to use on wood.
https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/Digit ... _Gray.ashx

Here's the link for the main page.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catal ... oating-kit

For the roof several folks have had nothing but excellent reviews for a product that goes by the name
Henry's 587.

Propane will produce CO as well. Be careful with engines, even if they operate from a 'fuel cell'.

Looking forward to seeing (that means pix), of what you do with it.

hank

Thanks so much for the speedy response Hank. I have indeed been spending lots of time researching. Thanks for the flooring ideas as well. I will look into those. One of those situations where there are almost too many choices which makes it tough to know what is truly the “best” if there is such a thing.

My thought on propane was just a cleaner burning fuel that’s all, I get paranoid about stuff like that. we will have our three young kids that will be camping in the trailer along with us. Just thinking from what I have read propane produces much less CO emissions when used properly and perhaps I wouldn’t have to place my generator so far from the trailer. I will of course have the correct monitors mounted in that trailer and battery powered.

I hope to post the sketchup designs this week while I piece together the build list and anxiously await delivery of the trailer.

Welcome MTnadventure14.

I'll add:
-Have the factory install 4 stab jacks
-Consider getting standard (non-drop) axles for better ground clearance in forest service/hilly areas
-Single step mounted at RV door
-Be sure your trailer is built with 1" square tubing walls 16" and ceiling 24" for strength and custom mounting options.
-Flooring, rubber coin mat is popular, but we found a deal on a 6 x 15 commercial carpet/vinyl backed mat. Works great, provides some thermal break for winter as well.
-Have you looked into vertical E-track? Perfect for your project. Tons of uses.
-Windows, high and offset for great cross flow ventilation and better interior light.
-The factory installed RV door was worth it, many times over.
-Consider a military style bunk design, like the sleeping berth in a sailboat. Ours are so comfortable, now that the kids are grown, we often use them instead of the click clack fold sofa in the front.

Ours is pretty basic, but here's more ideas. Our PVC bike rack holds 6 across easily, and I use NRS kayak straps anchored on both walls at e-track, threaded around handlebar stem and seat stems. Holds bikes rock solid. (Bikes racked in opposing directions). Then we we get where we're going the rack moves outside the trailer against the fenders and presto, outside parking.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=48345
Oh, and if you don't want the noise, and additional height of the roof a/c, check out our simple removable "closet" window A/C. (E-track to the rescue). In warmer weather we still can unload kayaks and bikes easily with the A/C in place, cooler weather, we remove the A/C "closet" and store it. Last winter, I never bothered to remove it. With barn doors, the A/C exhaust is closed to the "outside" left door, leaving the right door free for loading/unloading. When the right door is closed, the A/C is sealed to the inside, and works great even in the hottest weather.


Welcome to the madness, for your hobby, I expect there is no better solution than a cargo conversion. We now even use it for day trips kayaking, it is so convenient to have your secured storage, changing room, picnic etc. I used to think it was overkill hauling the trailer, but now I can't imagine going on an adventure without it as a base camp, etc.

Exciting times, we just ordered a 7x18x6.5' R&R. Going through many of the same decisions and flooring is one of them. We're looking at the rubber coin flooring from RecPro. But buying enough for the ramp door too means we need their largest size which get's expensive. R&R offers a factory option for $650 on their 18' v-nose and they use NuDo QuadFloor - looks like a nice product. Anyone have first-hand experience with that?

Thanks for the reply and the info : NO David!

Some very helpful information you outlined there. I plan to post my basic sketchup design today that outlines my thoughts so far. I had not thought about the axles, perhaps I will reach out to the builder today and see if that adjustment can be made (may be too far into the build already, not sure). Luckily, although we race bikes deep into the woods most of the actual trail heads begin in areas that are at worst just gravel and nothing too gnarly in terms of driving conditions (other than a ton of elevation change to get there). I did get two stabilizer jacks that drop down for the rear of the trailer and considering bogey wheels for steep driveway access without messing up the trailer.

A main feature for us will actually be a garage space that is designed at 8 ft deep and will have the Rustoleum flooring Hank outlined or the Liquid Rubber coating throughout. This will house a large vertical bike rack setup on off road 8" no flat casters. That way when we arrive at race locations all 8-10 bikes can be unloaded from the trailer and the garage space can be used for seating, repair work and warm up on the trainers for all racers. With this much racing every year it is important for us to build this stuff once and hope we get it right the first time because it will need to be functional immediately.

A/C etc will be mainly used to cool the livable space in the front 12 ft of the trailer on only really warm days and run with a propane generator.

Would be great to get some feedback once I post the sketch later today............Thanks again.

I am a total beginner at sketchup and slowly learning the software. These are some very basic designs specs and ideas so far - definitely open to suggestions.

1)Garage space in the back with vertical bike mount on off-road casters which is the rectangle in the picture. Then a partition wall intentionally with no door. This way the front of the trailer can be closed off and a/c used there and not in garage. Garage will convert into space for riders to warm up etc for races on rollers or trainers.

2) Triple bunk bed setup with a combination of e track bunk tracks on each wall vertically (not in the diagram) and attached to partition/framed wall as well. Three levels here flush to the wall and attached to e track on each side.

3) Just forward of that is a full/queen couch to bed combo for seating.

4) Plan is for the v nose to house the kitchen area and my 6 panel electrical will be mounted on the lower right side of the v nose section.

5) Roof mounted outdoor ABS 6" piping pressurized shower setup running half length of the trailer. This will be a DIY build most likely. Anyone with experience here with a simple bracket roof rack mount for their trailer? I have found a few options so far.

6) Searching battery options now (likely want 2 batteries) and small beginner solar setup.

How far does the front V extend? About 3 feet? And if you don't mind sharing, where did you order your trailer? I'm looking for roughly the same size and debating my options (I'm in Michigan).

I've subscribed to follow along on your build.

thanks for the questions.....

I believe the v nose extends roughly 2 ft or so.

I researched many many trailer companies. Ultimately decided on a company out of Md called Ultra after speaking with the owner extensively and asking about 100 questions over the course of a month to make sure I was comfortable with the purchase. A big part of my decision was that they will deliver the trailer to my driveway.

Several new updates while I await trailer arrival:

A primary question, what is everyone's opinion on inverter generator vs. regular portable? Is it worth the increased cost? This will primarily be running my Mini split A/C which is 9,000 BTU.

Pioneer Mini Split - 9,000 BTU Seer 17, 110V-120V unit which will be mounted on welded frame section just above the tongue area. Tongue has a 54" extension which should leave room for the outdoor portion of the mini split, 2 batteries, 2 propane tanks within a propane cover and all wiring.
Going with triple bunk along the garage partition wall and a fold out couch to queen perpendicular to this in an L shape (trailer needs to sleep 5).
Duracell deep cycle batteries from batteries plus
No solar initially, instead going the dual fuel generator route with a 2000 or 3100 watt generator. Either sportsman or Champion
Bogey Wheels for back of the frame for steep grades or driveways
Going with 1" Pink Foam Insulation throughout including under trailer
Maxxair Fan
Solar Shower with Black ABS piping at least 8 ft in length with no weld brackets
Rustoleum garage coating flooring with flakes for garage area
Vertical bike rack on casters for mobility

Mtnadventure14 wrote:A primary question, what is everyone's opinion on inverter generator vs. regular portable? Is it worth the increased cost? This will primarily be running my Mini split A/C which is 9,000 BTU.

Everything i'm seeing points towards inverter gennies being highly preferred for traveling/camping for a few reasons:

- They're far quieter (often below 60db)
- More fuel efficient (they can adjust engine speed based on load)
- They output cleaner power (typically pure-sine from the quality brands, modified on cheaper units)
- Easier to parallel if you want 2 small units instead of 1 larger unit

I have a older honda 2000 and the best part to me is you can buy a 6 gallon extended run tank and it will run 24 hours easy before you add more gas and you add it to the 6gallon tank without shutting it off.
I also just bought a champion 3100 watt with a wireless remote which I love, the only thing is you have to fill it every 5/6 hours. I think it's 1 gallon of gas.

I have been able to run the AC and charge my golf cart using the honda but it got to the point it would not do both it was right on the edge.
in the summer when I need to run the AC 24/7 I use the honda and charge the golf cart with the champion, when I don't need the ac full time I use the champion and that one allows me to run the AC and golf cart charger at the same time, I just have to fill the tank more often.

Thanks for the posts about generator feedback. I will definitely be going with an inverter generator, it appears the mini split with a high seer requires not a lot of actual power to run vs. a more traditional roof mounted a/c

Trailer arrives next week. Will take lots of pics once it is safely here. I have made progress on the design and now laying out the steps for the build starting with the following order:

1) Fully inspect trailer
2) Add bogey wheels for moving in and out of steep driveway
3) Remove interior ply, spray any rust prone areas with rustoleum.
4) Insulate with rigid foam insulation from Lowes/Home Depot
5) Considering vapor barrier but not sure if it is needed, anyone had experience with this in a trailer?
6) Reattach plywood and lightly mark stud areas for later install of etrack
7) Add protective coating to "garage" area and other floor/wall areas of trailer
attach insulation underneath trailer
9) diagram out placement of recessed d rings for motos, we will need to haul minimum of 4 motos (3 kids sized) at a time or 10 bikes in the garage area which is 8x7
10) install maxxair fan in the pre cut rooftop section, seal well.

and the list continues........

Update. Trailer has arrived and it looks great. Pics to follow.

I am reconsidering insulation on side walls because this thing has been built so sturdy with the plywood sides. It has been screwed in and stapled and nailed in as well. The plywood is flush and already sealed at each and every corner. My concern is ruining the ply if I remove all of this to insulate.

Considering just insulating ceiling and under the trailer. Thoughts from any with similar experience. My guess would be we will run A/C or heat on the trailer roughly 50% of the time we travel to races and it will be primarily run from generator and likely going with a mini-split system.

I would vote to insulate the walls. I did this to mine, but it was a used work trailer and I ended up replacing some of the ply anyway. On a new one, you can still remove the walls easily IF they screwed them on. I was going to order my new one with walls only partially installed so I could easily remove them and add insulation. However, I verified which insulation they offer as a factory install and went that route instead. The factory option costs the same as what I would have paid just for materials alone.