Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I tried a quick search and didn't see this, even though I know it has to have been answered 100x.

I'm either going to do Etrack with 2x4s or hammocks in my trailer and I want to know what to use to mount this to the aluminum walls?

All my other shelving and whatnot is mounted with simple self tapping, AL or SS screws. None of it is nearly the weight of a 200-250lb adult.

Are your walls merely sheet aluminum? Any vertical battens? Most aluminum walls are 1/2 inch plywood with aluminum over the ply. In this case the ply could support a bunch of weight if done right. If the walls are flimsy, I can only see boxing in supports from the floor up. Note that wood is very strong in compression loading.

Tt

Ya its a thin plastic wall with only the small aluminum wall studs behind it. https://imgur.com/gallery/3PEVMqH

I'll first issue a disclaimer in that I've built a teardrop but have not built a CT conversion (although I've been in research mode for about 3 years or more). BTW, that is a beautiful CT trailer you have!

I would consider using Rivnuts in the aluminum wall framing. If the interior wall panels are aluminum, you could sandwich the aluminum sheeting with the aluminum framing. If the interior wall panels are plastic, you probably need to cut a relief circle so the Rivnut captures only the aluminum framing and not the plastic panels.

Another option would be to use the wall framing for anchoring only - using self-tapping screws - and build structure down to the floor so that the floor is carrying the weight and not the wall framing.

aggie79 wrote:...Another option would be to use the wall framing for anchoring only - using self-tapping screws - and build structure down to the floor so that the floor is carrying the weight and not the wall framing.

That sure seems sensible.
We can imagine a pretty strong support structure made from 1/2 inch or 3/4 in plywood legs up against the wall, so all the weight rests in the floor, down through those plywood legs/columns. A few rivets or screws into the wall to keep it from sliding around or rattling. The flat legs would take up almost no floor space.

might be difficult to see in the pic but this is how i support the weight the kayak. cam buckle straps to spreader bar supported by the interior plywood wall. works great!

Trick, Howdy;

Trick wrote:I tried a quick search and didn't see this, even though I know it has to have been answered 100x.

I'm either going to do Etrack with 2x4s or hammocks in my trailer and I want to know what to use to mount this to the aluminum walls?

All my other shelving and whatnot is mounted with simple self tapping, AL or SS screws. None of it is nearly the weight of a 200-250lb adult.

How are the Aluminum wall sections attached to your ribs (vertical supports), rivets or screws? Either can be removed, rivets by
drilling and screws by ... unscrewing. I'd go ahead and remove the alum. wall sections and replace with 1/2" plywood (be an
excellent time to install insulation), then reattach the alum. sheets or save them for another project. With the plywood walls you
can mount the E-track etc., etc., etc.
Really, if you plan to insulate why not just replace the aluminum or reapply it over the plywood.

hank

In my conversion I made folding beds that are attached to E-trac. E-trac is attached to the vertical steel studs with self tapping screws. I used the E-trac stud pockets for the bed supports. The bunks fold up to the side or can be completely removed.









My son likes to hammock too. The o rings for the E-trac work great for hanging hammocks.




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I was only able to see the single pic of the finished interior of the trailer but if this is what you are basing your design on I think you need to do a little more investigation.

Most of these rigs have studs of some kind between the outside skin and the inside skin to frame the entire trailer before skins are even applied and then as a surface skeleton to attach the skins.

So if you have decided there is little support available to finish a build but do not really understand how the trailer is constructed I do not predict a happy build in general?

You need to disassemble a side wall section and see exactly what it looks like in there and then we can talk about it.

If I have missed this step that you did I apologize.

If you have not seen behind the skin with your own eyes,then you need to to make good choices about how to proceed.

It seems to be 1x1 aluminum wall studs. I did try and pull a sheet of the 1/8" paneling off, I got a quick peek and decided against it. The walls are all caulked and looking nice. This trailer is a toy hauler and light camping, basically a step better then a tent. This will be no where near the beautiful camping setups most you guys have.

I have been working a lot on it, in preparation of a trip coming up this week. No pictures yet, but I got AC power plug and receptales, portable air conditioning rigged in, a shelf, small storage box, start of my Etrack for securing a Rzr and a cot bed thingie. Just waiting on the Rivet Nuts to get the bed mounted.

Here's pics of the trailer outside and the start of one of the canvas cots I'm going to try and hang from etrack and use as a bed.
https://imgur.com/a/2WZsQFl

If I don't get the inside pics up by the end of this week expect some in about 2 weeks when I get back.

(Is there a way I can put Imgur pictures into my post instead of the links?)

I used skinny unistrut channels for my setup. The back two pieces I used the door hinge bolts to secure them. The front two only needed 3 bolts thru a metal stud. Make sure they’re right on the floor and then they’ll take the weight, while the wall only takes a small portion of it.