Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Edited Since I found out how to insert Photos....

I'd like to share what I have done to a 2018 Ameralite Trailer. I've opted for a slightly different floor plan than most choose after much thought. My last project was the "Grumliner" step van (https://grumliner.tumblr.com/). I learned a lot from the way I laid that floor plan out, then adjusted when I downsized into this trailer.

Here is a view looking forward:

I wanted to retain a level of "toy hauler" such that I could haul at least one toy, and still sleep, even function easily in a Walmart lot overnight without unloading anything. So with bed down, I have a 48" x 80" area, which handles one of my scooters or one small ATC. If I do not have to sleep in it and haul, this floor plan lets me ultimately haul anything that will fit in a 4' x 12' section when the bed is folded up into the Nose, and I have even more space if I fold up the bench on the wall.

I had a rear bed/dinette in the Grumliner, and hated the fact that the bed was always between the use-ability of the truck and the rear ramp door/deck. And, making the bed in it was difficult. My new "nose bed" method allows me to toss all the bedding onto the shelving in the nose and flip the bed frame up in seconds ! Another advantage has been that the wife's dog can sleep ON the lower shelf in the nose next to her instead of on top of us. And, now we can walk between the rear deck where we hang out a lot, into the trailer easily for sink, bathroom, food, drink and snack demands.

Here is a shot looking backwards down the drivers wall:

We found that counter space was a must. Nothing worse than these new campers that have a sink and stove next to each other and no where to put anything. I will be adding additional counter space via a tip down narrow shelf along the passenger side at some point.

In teh far back is a potti room with a microwave above it. So far, it has worked out very well.

Diggin' the Grumliner! Can't wait to see what you have done with the CTC.
This place is full of creative folks and we sure could use another. Welcome Grummy.

McDave

Thanks McDave. Glad I can finally share in this forum, where I have lurked many, many times. I figured out my picture problem, so I can start explaining things.

Pics to date have been loaded into my gallery. More to come !

Here is a picture of the front bed system down. The 12" high backrest fills the gap between the tip down section and the door, though, I'm not one to mind my feet hanging over the end.



When I get a little farther along, I will pick material for the cushions and walls.

There is plenty of space on the nose shelves for more than just the bedding. Towels and wash clothes are easily accessible when placed on the top shelf.



Of course when the bedding is not on the shelf and the bed is down, other personal items can be stored there.

Here is a build pic from the rear. I did use off the shelf base cabinets for the forward two units, but narrowed them as much as I could while still keeping all the drawers working. If I recall correctly, the factory left over 4" of dead space behind the drawers when they were closed. In a 7' wide, it would be use-able space, but in a 6' wide, I needed all the room I could get.



To save weight, I also removed large sections of the material between adjoining cabinets and made all three, including the "bathroom" enclosure I made to match, all connect together as one removable unit if ever necessary.

Microwave cabinet is on top of the "Bathroom", and my "load center" is located on the drivers side in an 8" "garage area" I retained in the back. The stub wall on the right side is removable in order to allow for cargo up to 48" wide. Two french doors with leaded glass will someday fill the gap between the bathroom cabinet and stub wall, opening outwards towards the deck (ramp).

An early test fit of one of the scooters. I have yet to establish a proper tie down system for it, but will eventually. At least I know it will fit with bed deployed, AND still allow access to the counter area and bathroom when it is in place.

Here is a picture of when I was putting together something for an awning. My truck had what I call a rigid "swap meet" style frame system that could pretty much take any kind of weather, and I wanted similar here albeit a little lighter.



This one is attached via Bimini hardware to 3/4" conduit.



I found I could put 1" bimini ends onto the conduit by sliding a stack of 3/4" conduit compression rings into the 1" fittings and they fit like a glove.



To make the 8.5' tubes collapsible, I found I could fill the 3/4" conduit with 5/8" OD aluminum tube, the compress the ends down with a hydraulic fitting crimper enough to slide inside the next section.

Nice work!

McDave

I missed this when I was out camping.

Well thought out and nicely done!

Rainier70 wrote:I missed this when I was out camping.

Well thought out and nicely done!

Thanks ! After using it a few times, I really have come to appreciate the front bed layout. It leaves so much more room for cargo when I need to haul things, and as designed, room for both cargo AND a deployed sleeping area at the same time. When hauling one cycle or scooter along the passenger side wall, my wife and I can still use the counter area and potti without unloading the bike, which makes it great for inexpensive overnights along the way.

I can't wait until next spring when the next phase will start... windows, solar, AC, diesel furnace and enclosed/screened room over the rear deck. That will really open things up in such a small trailer.

On and off over the last few days, I have started on a Winter Cover for my trailer. I really hated how my last rig always needed a thorough cleaning after the tree sap cycles and dirty snow. This year will be different (I hope).

I purchased a much larger Travel Trailer cover knowing I would need to cut it apart, then custom sew it together so it wouldn't be a baggy, floppy old thing in the wind. After grinding some of the very sharp corners from the upper trim moulding on the trailer, I was able to fit the white roof section, reinforcing the corners with an additional two layers of the same material. Then I fitted and sewed the sides on, picking and choosing the best fit apsect of what I had to work with... meaning, where to utilize the existing zippered openings and tie down straps as best possible. Both the passenger side door area and the rear ramp door area have zippered sections allowing access into the trailer without removing the entire cover. I may be able to keep it covered all the time when I am not using it, keeping me from having to clean it as much.

Here is a picture of the passengers side during just one of the many "fitting" events:

And, the drivers side:

Still a lot to do !

Grummy, Howdy;

Dang Hoss!!! That's lookin' almost PRO. Tell me you were a Parachute rigger in the Military ...

You usin' a standard sewing machine or a Medium duty one?



hank

hankaye wrote:Grummy, Howdy;

Dang Hoss!!! That's lookin' almost PRO. Tell me you were a Parachute rigger in the Military ...

You usin' a standard sewing machine or a Medium duty one?



hank

Thanks Hank... no on the parachute rigger...... I did spend 10 years in automotive upholstery work when I was young. It never left me, and I've always made sure I keep an industrial machine in my tool collection.

This particular cover is made from various thicknesses of TYVEK, so some of it I have used a standard household level machine. I use it where a zig zag stitch can provide more strength, but use the old Singer 111w155 (antique by todays machines) for all the heavy and thick work.

Grummy, Howdy;

Know the feelin', When I was stationed in Naples, It, we just had 1 PR (p'chute rigger),
and when he went on Leave (vacation), someone had to watch the store so-to speak.
As the junior guy in the airframes shop I was elected. Learned to sew and pack P'chutes
Life rafts etc. The old machine was hobbled together so we ordered a new one. When
it showed up we found out there was "assembly required" not just some ... the whole
of the working unit. Learned that there are actually parts with names like "Needle-Hook
crurk shank that need to be timed to the vertical needle arm,which in turn ... etc., etc.,
3 weeks later we had it hummin right along. Stood me well as every time I transferred I'd
get certified in the Loft so I could make a bag or repair some dungarees sew arm ratings
on fun stuff. Nowadays I use a palm and needle on #10 canvass.

hank