Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

usmc70_14 wrote:Good afternoon everyone...

I have recently changed builder in terms of the trailer I want done. WeeRoll has won me over Cargo Craft....

I am getting a 7x12 V Nose with a 7' height.

Assuming I insulate (Foam Board) the roof and walls, what BTU window AC unit should I go with? I would like my temperature to be in the 70 'a at night and during the day 75. I'll probably be running a fan or 2 to move the air around the trailer. This trailer will be mostly used in South Florida, as you know heat and humidity suck major donkey ballz!

Since I'm building this to be my portable office with the vnose area being my desk area with monitors, where would you guys mount the AC Hatch for optimal performance throughout the trailer?

usmc70_14 wrote: trailer will be mostly used in South Florida, as you know heat and humidity suck major donkey ballz!

Since I'm building this to be my portable office with the vnose area being my desk area with monitors, where would you guys mount the AC Hatch for optimal performance throughout the trailer?

McDave wrote:

usmc70_14 wrote: trailer will be mostly used in South Florida, as you know heat and humidity suck major donkey ballz!

Since I'm building this to be my portable office with the vnose area being my desk area with monitors, where would you guys mount the AC Hatch for optimal performance throughout the trailer?

13,500 btu mounted on the roof where it belongs. Do it once, Do it right.

McDave

McDave wrote:It seems to be a budget issue, but by the time you have done all the work to install a window shaker and have to live with the loss of real estate and poor performance you could'a had a rooftop unit. Of course, once you have made choice you dig in in your heels and defend it, no matter what.

McDave wrote:It seems to be a budget issue, but by the time you have done all the work to install a window shaker and have to live with the loss of real estate and poor performance you could'a had a rooftop unit. Of course, once you have made choice you dig in in your heels and defend it, no matter what.

• Au contraire, many of us believe in just the opposite.
• Rooftop units work great for awhile, but later may become sore-points in older RV's, with limited repair/replacement opportunities (at RV dealers, Camping World-type operations), leaks from the unit or around the gaping hole in the roof (seal maintenance becomes more critical, when overhead), and always having to have beaucoups of power available to use them (30+ amps in parks, or 3500+ watts of generator power, for the common 13.5K btu units). With other types of A/C units available, those of us with smaller areas to cool, would rather use window units (permanently-mounted, removable, or "hacked" w/hose attachments), instead. There's no need to label the window unit users as low-budget, un-wise, heel-dragging individuals; but if that's what you think, then that's your opinion, and....
• I've used many window units, in houses, and only one rooftop unit in our 20-footer, but have known others who have had problems with their large RV units before. As I stated, they had to take their RV or trailer into a dealership, to get the problem fixed, whereas I can just take a couple of hours to grab another window unit at a big box or Walmart anywhere, install it, and have my house (or my TTT) cool again. Though my new house has central air, I kept three window units from the demolished house, JIC. And, though my over-complicated TTT 's A/C set-up may take awhile to teardown, I can install another unit there within minutes, if I simplified the exhaust routing (which I will, whenever....).
• Perhaps I might've considered using a rooftop unit, if I had a true, factory set-up (under warranty, of course), but even in a huge cargo conversion, I would've still installed one, or two, window units to do the job. Our hot, or hot and humid climate (for most of the year), would make me choose to permanently install the unit(s), but in an accessible way, for ease of cleaning/checking the seals/and possible replacement. All possible while inside the cabin, not overhead on the rooftop. Or even in a false bulkhead, removable in minutes, as others have done before. It's just up to the individual's creativity and workmanship, and skill level.
• But, choosing between rooftop or window unit, per se, isn't the only way to cool the trailer... there are several to choose from:
  1.) simple fan/vents - easiest to install, works everywhere, parts everywhere
  2.) "swamp" cooler (evaporative) - for hot, dry climates only, make your own or pre-made
  3.) window unit (permanent, or semi-permanent/slide-out mount) - DIY installed, replacement units available everywhere
  4.) "hacked" window unit - DIY installed, more fabrication skills needed, parts may not be readily available
  5.) Climate Right units- expensive $$ per BTU, parts/service/replacement ???
  6.) portable (roll-around) A/C units - not applicable to smaller TD's or TTT's (standies, retro canned hams, cargo conversions, OK), less efficient than window units
  7.) rooftop units - usually only for larger area cooling needs, not usually DIY-install/service (dealership/dependent)
  8.) mini-splits - hybrid between window unit and "hacked", or perhaps a portable?, expensive, never seen on a TTT (so far)
• This is just my opinion, regarding the never-ending debate. I only chimed in to express my counterpoint to McDave's seemingly omniscient pronouncement.

McDave wrote:See what I mean? Heels dug in, Heads on fire. Here is a short tutorial on the causes of " short cycling". It applies to any geographic location and uses data to track the cause. The physics don't cease to be relevant because you live in Florida or any other location on this planet.
https://www.nrminc.com/blog/compressor- ... gy-waster/
While there are plenty of folks here who consider themselves experts in the field, few if any have ever had to prove it. That is to say make a living in the field, where results really matter. I have been there and done that, and I have no interest in steering you in the wrong direction.
Your call,

McDave