Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

What have people done for solar on a round-top CT? I'm looking at the NEO NAVR's if anybody has experience with those in particular. (Haven't actually viewed one in person yet.)

Aside from flexible panels, I've seen one person install panels single file in the middle of the roof where there's less curve. Ladder racks would work but ruin the roof line; maybe a custom rack to provide a flat section on top that's nice and tight to the trailer roof?

I think most L-Brackets for panel mounting would work fine as long as the curve is not too extreme.
All you need to do is get a flat spot for each corner and the panel will just stand off the roof a little to stand clear of the curve.

I'd stay away from the flexible panels if you can. They tend to have issues more often. I have never owned any myself, but follow the topic. In any case, racks is one way to go. The other is to have portable panels you set out on the ground. I do not think the rack would ruin the roofline, but that is all just preference. In fact, the panels on rack will shade your roof and keep it cooler.

If you can find a welder, and since the racks only need to hold the panels (no significant weight), you could get some custom racks made that follow the roofline better and keep a lower profile such that the panels are just off the roof by a 1/4" . Have them made with pins so you can tilt your panels. That would look nice and be more efficient.

Mazlem, Howdy;

Well, you mentioned Ladder racks, here's some you can pretty much adjust (customize),
to your needs.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Cargo- ... RA-28.html

OR ... you can make a set of 'L' brackets (shorter for center-line and Taller for nearer the edges).

I'd weigh my decision in favor of what "flboy" says, he's truly very well informed on this
and most things electrical.

hank

As long as the brackets are tall enough to clear the curve the roof curve should not matter.
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/imag ... Ceu8XaXdmg

I'm in the planning phase of #4. I've read and read about flexible panels. A lot are junk.

I'm going to use one 100 watt flexible Sunpower panel. They're not cheap.



Tony

Flexible panels have been used on boats for a long time without issues. I would have used them on my CTC had they been a bit less costly. I got 100 watt panels from Renogy and I see now that they are selling flexible. If you haven't looked at them...

https://www.renogy.com/renogy-100-watt- ... lar-panel/

Wonder if you couldn't just use some stand offs attached to the roof supports. That way could be kept low profile and no racks. Would have to penetrate the roof, (probably) however. So,......
Adheisives have come a long way. Betcha 3M has something specifically for this application.

McDave

I was just talking to somebody about his solar plans and he's going to secure angled aluminum to the roof with 3M VHB tape. How about this - have some racks welded (or bolted to tabs) on the sides that roughly follow the curves of the roof and sit on the roof bows, with tape securing them in the middle. That should be plenty strong for weight and wind.

Mazlem, Howdy;

I've read some good things about some of those new type adhesives, however,
the most important thing to remember is the bond is only as strong as the
weakest link. By that I mean if you are applying it to a painted surface it won't
be as strong as it would be to a clean, prepared structural surface (roof).
You're a smart fella, ya found us and are asking questions, I'm sure you'll find a
good solution for your problem. Let us know and please post pix, we love pix.
That way we can pass along your solution.

hank

Mazlem wrote:I was just talking to somebody about his solar plans and he's going to secure angled aluminum to the roof with 3M VHB tape. How about this - have some racks welded (or bolted to tabs) on the sides that roughly follow the curves of the roof and sit on the roof bows, with tape securing them in the middle. That should be plenty strong for weight and wind.

The one time I used a flexible PV solar panel on a roof - as has been pointed out, many are low-quality - I used 3M VHB tape around the perimeter AND I installed a bit of 3/4 x 3/4 aluminum angle as a wind deflector, which I would highly recommend. VHB tape isn't designed for extreme peel/cleavage stresses. That $10 wind deflector will make you feel a lot better driving 70 mph down the highway!

Now ... I'd stick with a rigid PV panel and mount it using brackets. It's more work, but it's a lot easier to replace when the time comes. Ask me how I know

Custom bend aluminum angle on outside. If it were me I would buy 2" angle and use 3M VHB tape to attach. Proper surface prep and enough surface area so the panel(s) do not become a wind born missile are crucial. I have heard the flex panels glued on put out less power (heat) and cause heat build up inside and shortens life of the panel.

I'm going the VHB route with flexible panels on my round topper. Get quality flexibles and treat them well, they are easier to scratch being plastic versus glass rigids.

Using eternabond roofing tape directly to the aluminum roof and overlapping the seams of the solar panels, no paint to cause any issues and keeps them from getting snagged by wind or trees. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R ... UTF8&psc=1
It also works great for wire management, you can route the wires where you want them then slap the tape over the bundles.

I've heard the flexibles need some ventilation underneath in warmer climates, so I will probably do a layer of coroplast between the roof and solar panel, adds some sound insulation too (we get a LOT of rain here). If the ends of the corrogated plastic stay open it should allow for some airflow, if I don't tape it all off. Heat reduces PV output so the cooler you keep them the better.



I went the roof rack method the first time around, with pivoting panels - it's the best way to go in many ways but a lot more work. Things get ruined fast if you forget to latch down the other side opposite the hinge pin too .
I originally wanted to use a linear actuator motor to incline the panels for me when I am stopped (either with me pushing a switch or dreaming of some automated sun tracking / latitude based system), and a relay to the tow wiring to lower it automatically if the tow vehicle is keyed ON incase I drive off with the panels elevated like a dumby. A mistake I made in being impatient was using perforated angle iron for the bracketry instead of waiting on perforated square tubing, much less strength that route - if you do a roof rack make EVERYTHING with square tube - even if you have to wait a few weeks for it to come in. I should have got the non-perforated tubing and just punched a few holes where I wanted them, live and learn.

If the flexibles dont work out then I will definitely revisit the pivoting roof rack idea, I just want less projects and more FUN TIME right now - so I can work on the trailer less and use it more often. I can probably get all six panels mounted in a day or two if I go slow - making the roof rack and other crap took longer for sure.