Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I'm building two bunk beds in my cargo trailer, and I've been going back and forth on how to build them.

Goals:
Sleep an adult male if needed (let's say 300 lb capacity) (they will mostly be used by my kids, but I do get out with the guys and wouldn't mind the option of them sleeping in them if needed)
Keep it lightweight (ish)

My bunks are going to be 30"x80" (one will span the width of the trailer, and other will be running more lengthwise.

My current plan is to use 2x4s and run a rail on each side capped at the ends with 2x4s, and use 1/2" plywood on top, but I wonder if I should be doing a third 2x4 down the middle ish, or if 2x4 is even strong enough. I also wasn't sure if I should be doing some cross pieces.

Let me know if I didn't include any info, or whatever.

Here's what we did:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=49766#p925635


Here's a link to the Euro military surplus cots:
https://colemans.com/cot-euro-military
I was going to purchase them just for the heavy duty frames, and have a upholstery shop recover them with denier nylon. To my surprise the treated burlap was so strong and comfortable, I used them as-is. They have been going strong nearly 7 years now. Funny thing is now that the kids are grown, we sleep in them now, and they are amazingly comfortable. I can't find it now, but recall seeing a 300LB rating on these cots. I'm sure the welded tubing and legs will support it, and after all this time, think the burlap surface will too. In some of the closeups you can see the heavy gauge wire sewn around the perimeter, and the multitude of hangers, which spread the load out around the tubing frame.

With all that said, I might not put a 300LB fellow in my top bunk, since I have them partially supported by the ceiling members, but there have been multiple kids playing, climbing, swinging on them over the years, and our boats live there when they aren't in the water. Another fun feature is I can rotate the upper bunks up against the wall, and unclip the hanger from the ceiling e-track and move it to the upper wall e-track, pull the strap, and presto, upper bunks are out of the way for loading larger stuff. The bottom bunks still use the legs, and when not in use, they hang on the vertical e-track with two J-clips,resting just above the floor, rock solid and out of the way.

and a more recent discussion:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=71161&start=15

Thanks for the ideas. My bunks are going to be fixed, built in, and need to be 30"x80".

One will be supported by the equivalent of a wall on 3 sides, and the other will be supported by a wall on the two ends, and underneath off-centered along its length by a plywood wall, so really I'm just wanting to ensure, particularly the one on 3 sides will be able to hold 300 pounds with the one unsupported side, and what kind of construction will achieve that.

How about using 2668 (30" x 80") hollow core doors, adding 1/4" plywood to the top side, and wrapping the perimeter in 1x4's? The stressed skin construction of the doors are plenty strong enough to support the overall weight. The 1/4" plywood on top would distribute the weight and keep point loads from piercing the thin door skin. The 1x4 perimeter would add additional strength and, if the excess depth of the 1x4 is placed on the top side, it would help contain the mattress.

Excellent idea aggie79. Should be less than 100 bucks for both bunks. Strong, quick and easy.

McDave

Good idea. I might have to shop around for doors

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I did a very basic 2x4 and plywood bunk lengthwise, and they have worked well. They have the added bonus of a good place for storing stuff while in transit. I also have a platform that easily comes down from the opposite wall that can form a queen bed with the bottom bunk.



There are more pictures of the bunk and platform near the bottom of this gallery:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMuL5sHZOD69u2D-1iApnJ9XYln0UX1fIikecqT92lBKw9rvfJ3aA0aKxj1l_ytaA?key=N1hBODMtd0t4VGlZVEVYRVpGclRPRGZoMVc3N25R

Hollow core doors!!! Great Idea!!!