Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Next up on the list is 8x14 awning just in time for spring!

I am using an RV awning from RecPro:

https://www.recpro.com/14-rv-awning-rep ... ded-seams/

For the frame I'm using schedule 40 aluminum structural pipe, using 1" and 1 1/4" combined for the uprights so I can achieve telescoping action for height adjustability. I need around 7 feet of height when the awning will be stowed for travel, and about 9.5 feet when extended out to secure the awning.

I'll use speed rail structural pipe fittings for elbows on the corners, a coupling for main rail pipe/roller and some pivot fittings to attach to the trailer. I'm gonna try slipping the main 1" pipe thru 3" PVC with end caps for "hubs", to be used as a roller, with a slot ripped lengthwise down the pipe to attach the awning bead cord. I have already installed the trim rail for the awning and attached it to the trailer.

This is about a $500 project, mainly for the aluminum pipe and fittings. I thought about using all PVC or rigid conduit for the frame, but i wanted to keep everything all aluminum to match the trailer construction. The cost of a complete RV awning at this size is at least $900-1000 so I'm well within budget LOL!

https://www.mcmaster.com/4699T28-4699T224/

https://www.mcmaster.com/4699T29-4699T225/

https://www.mcmaster.com/4698T79/

https://www.mcmaster.com/4698T32/

https://www.mcmaster.com/4698T217/

Hers a shot of progress so far, i think it will work out once I shore up the roller. The frame is solid but the ripped PVC pipe (currently in three sections) attached to the bead cord is questionable since the pipe can expand slightly, (I ruined a 7 ft section trying to rip it on my table saw ). I may need to attach with tarp grommets/eyelets to a solid pipe instead. I will add PVC caps as hubs on each end. I can add pipe hangers or clamps to attach the uprights in the stowed position, and use locking pins to secure the poles in the fixed position.

Well had bad luck with the Frigidaire unit. The fan was mis-wired from the factory, with high and low speeds reversed! Duh!
Returned it to Home Depot but was sold out, so ordered exact same model from Walmart. Received the replacement and the condenser coil fins were smashed all to hell from shipping damage!
Back to Walmart and done with Frigidaire, lol!

I was able to find a Toshiba 6000 BTU model (Home Depot) with exact dimensions and no damage, LOL! Plugged it in and all is good, gets nice and cold.

Next up I'll be adding a Dexter Axle lift kit for some needed ground clearance, I've already installed stabilizer jacks at all four corners.

https://www.easternmarine.com/dexter-ta ... k71-707-02

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V2 ... UTF8&psc=1

chiefvintage wrote:Next up I'll be adding a Dexter Axle lift kit for some needed ground clearance, I've already installed stabilizer jacks at all four corners.

https://www.easternmarine.com/dexter-ta ... k71-707-02

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V2 ... UTF8&psc=1

I installed a Dexter axle lift on my teardrop. Pretty easy upgrade. Just loosen bolts one side. With axle supported, remove bolts on opposite side, and lower axle enough to slip in lift. Loosely reinstall bolts. The move to other side and repeat. Finish by tightening all bolts.

you'll also need to square up the axles with the frame/tongue before tightening bolts to prevent improper tracking/ uneven tire wear. I measured distance from center of tongue at the hitch ball to either side at the axle pivot arm and am within .125" on either side. No noticable difference in handling before and after lift install. My lift blocks are 2 5/16" height.