Emergency Shelter Build

[jwh92020]

My brother in law has found himself homeless & sleeping in his truck ( He brought it on himself). Normally, I would "tough love" him & let him deal with it, but he has a health issue that requires him to sleep on his back with his feet elevated. Tough to do in a truck cab. I don't want him moving in with us (been there, done that & not happening again) and I don't want him to die. I want to take a 5 x 8 x 55" interior height CT and turn it into a sleeping pod. It has a rear ramp door currently. I'd like to convert the ramp door into a single side swing door. I want to put a tear drop like kitchen area in the rear, so the ramp needs to go. Has anyone done something like this? It seems like it should be doable, but before I tear into it, I thought I'd get some input from you guys. Thanks
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[hankaye]

jwh92020, Howdy;

With the way the manufacturers are starting to respond to what we do
with them and reading how some are getting lots of things done at the
factories. Why not ask them so you don't need to deal with the head-
scratching and experimenting to get'er done. Something like a vendor's
lift up door in the back with a foot or 2 of solid structure to secure the
bottom of the door when closed. And, ... perhaps the bottom section
could have a pair of swing out doors to access the lower section.
Never hurts to ask.

hank

[jwh92020]

hank -

I've got a call in to the mfg to get theiir thoughts on what can be done. Looking at it, I think if I remove the plywood on the door and have the ramp closed and latched, I can remove the left bar lock and replace it with 2 - 16" CT strap hinges in the bar lock mounting points. Mark the door where the hinge holes are, remove the ramp, reinforce the door where the hinges mount and mount the door. Skin the door with 1/4" to reduce weight and use the right side bar lock to secure it. In my head, it's doable. However, reality & my head sometimes get their signals crossed. Hopefully the mfg has an easy, low cost way to do this, or there will be no rear kitchen.

[Squigie]

Delete the bottom hinge. Convert a side latch to a hinge.
I don't see the problem.

...Unless the trailer was built to "look" strong, but is actually flimsy and those latch attachment points can't hold any load.

[jwh92020]

Squigie -

That is my plan. I don't get the trailer at home until Thursday as the dealer is pulling the wheel bearings to repack or replace as needed and we have snow coming tonight and my wife said she's not parking outside until after the snow passes. Then I can pull the metal that covers the corners to see exactly how the bar latch is installed and if the metal is strong enough to handle hanging the door from.

[GTS225]

I'm thinking this is a right now kind of quick and dirty shelter need. Don't do anything with the rear ramp door at this time. Throw some locks on the outside and use the side door as a main entry. Do a quick fold-down bed on the left wall, or better yet, a couch/bed type of build. Mount a vent fan in the roof above where your plans are for the kithenette. Throw a pair of lead-acid batteries in a cabinet, with a battery charger for lighting and low voltage needs, and he's got a quick emergency "home". If it's got 120 available, utilize electric heat, so as to avoid CO2 in the living space. It won't take a lot of heater to keep it livable. Do any major mods to better the place when the weather gets better.
Make sure he keeps the registration up so that he can pull stakes at any time and follow the weather.

Roger

[jwh92020]

Roger

Thanks for the ideas. A friend of his just paid for 2 weeks in a motel, so I have a bit of time to do this. He's not a "follow the weather guy". He lives in Louisiana and works for a home builder, but we all know how construction work ebbs and flows. I like the idea of a fold down bed, but I'm not sure how that will work in a 55" high space. We're talking small tear drop height inside. He'll be staying at free campgrounds near where he lives - 14 day stay, restrooms (no showers)drinking water, no power (solar panel on roof). I don't know how much access to power he'll have in the future, so I'm still working on the heat issue. Fortunately, I have lot's of stuff left from previous builds to use in this one, from insulation, wiring & paneling to a frig, solar charge controller & windows. I'm bringing the trailer home Thursday (snow storm headed for us tonight) so once I tear it down, I'll have a better idea of where I'm going.

[McDave]

Sounds like he is very lucky to have somebody who would go to such an extent to solve his problem. You are kind and generous people, however I'm sure you know some folks need help and some folks need a boot in the ass. Help people that genuinely need help. Don't be an enabler. Nuff said.
Here is a link for cargo door hinges. If you have a ramp the frame that surrounds the ramp and supports it in the up position should be plenty strong to bolt these hinges to. You may have to fab something in the ramp/door to mount to. Also you could just put ramp hinges at the top and get some struts to hold the ramp up like teardrop style. This could provide shade and shelter like an awning as well as access to the galley. Just thoughts.
Link for hinges:
http://www.mirageinc.com/strap-hinge-16-w-14-offset

McDave

[jwh92020]

McDave -

There is that fine line between helping and enabling, and walking it is tough. This is that "one last chance" that the entire family is giving him. I talked to the mfg today and they think the ramp is too heavy to use as a door. I asked about having it raise and they didn't want to talk about it. They did offer to connect me with one ofctheir dealers who could sell me a new hinged door kit - for more than I paid the trailer. When I get it home, I'll take the 3/4" plywood off the ramp and see how it's built, and whther I can side hinge it or have it raise up. Thanks for the link to the hinges. I saw a video of a guy who changed his ramp door to a lift up door using "fireman hinges"(?) Can't find much info on them.

[McDave]

Hey JW,
You might want to check out travist's build. He had the ramp put on as a lift hatch from the factory I believe. He is also doing a teardrop style galley. Lots of good ideas in this one.
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=71478

Good Luck,
McDave

[jwh92020]

McD -

Thanks for the link. I talked to the mfg and it looks like welding a new set of hinges at the top of the door is the best way to go.

[beachguy005]

I have a 5x5x12 that I started as a rear TD style galley and a fold down bed and I hated it. They took up so much of the interior volume that what was left was hardly enough to move around in, or work inside. Trying to set up the bed, which then takes up all the room, was a pain. In the end I tore out the galley and built a bench that converts to a bed. I still have enough space to cook inside if I'm not doing it outside and plenty of storage.
I applaud your helping but I think, given the small size of the trailer, get him a standing room cabin tent to use along with the trailer. Use the trailer for storing his gear and keep a folding cot in it for nights not sleeping in the tent.

[jwh92020]

beachguy -
Thanks for sharing your experience. We've decided to leave the ramp as is. His family is covinced that actual "cooking" is something he's not going to do. Reheating maybe, but no cooking. I'm going to build 3 modular units to put in the rear of the trailer. The left side will house a 1.7 cu.ft. dorm fridge and a 700 watt microwave. The center will have a space to mount a small tv and a 5k btu ac, and the right side will be storage. Yes, it's going to make the interior tight, but it will be warm dry and safe. I have an idea about using a roll up patio sun shade cloth as an awning (I did it on a 7 x 14 and it worked out great). 250 watt solar panel on the roof, 100 ah battery to power lights, tv and a 12v fan. The frig, ac & micro will have to have shore power. I'm debating on spring for another 100 ah battery and a cheap inverter to run the frig 24/7. According to the solar calculators, to run the frig, I need 180 watts of panel and 200 ah of batteries. I have a 250 watt panel and a 30 amp charge controller on hand. I'm not sure about spending the $ on another battery, not too mention the weight of a second battery. This whole thing is going to be an adventure.

[dirtsailor2003]

Good for you helping out a friend in need. Honestly if it was me I'd keep everything super simple and zero structural changes to the trailer. As you mentioned above you don't know how long or if he will stick around. I'd make everything modular and removable. I'd even go for a hunting cot or cheap futon for the bed. As for power If all he's running is microwave and a small dorm fridge that can be accomplished with an extension cord. I put a port into my trailer that the cord plugs into then powers the one outlet I have. I wouldn't bother trying to power it off solar. What you'd pay for the system would be a lot $$$$ towards the power bill of running those small items. For safety get him a small induction burner and a magnetic pot to use with it. Induction burners don't work unless there's a magnetic metal pan/pot on it so its harder to burn a place down than a coil or gas hot plate.

[jwh92020]

dirtsailor 2003-

No structural changes, keeping the ramp door as it is. What is going in will be modular and removable. He won't always have access to shore power which is why I'm contemplating enough solar to run the frig. I am going to put a 110v inlet on the trailer for those times he has power. My sister in law ordered him one of those 3 pc fold up mattresses that can be a "couch" as well as a bed from Amazon. She got it in a twin size so it's big enough for him to sleep on, but doesn't cover the whole floor. The solar won't be a huge cost as I have a 250 watt panel and a 30 amp controller here that cost me $0 ( I bought 11 panels & controllers for $300, sold 6 for $100/ea, so I'm ok donating one). The frig spiked to 125 watts on it's out of the box start up and averaged 16 watts over 400 hrs. I'd need 2 - 100 amp hr batteries (along with an inverter) to power it. That is a lot of weight to add to the trailer. Just to run a fan, a couple of led lights and a 12v tv, I need 80 ah of battery and 61 (?) watts of panel according to the calculator. Either way, I'll use a panel & controller I have on hand, and if I'm buying an 80 ah battery, for $20 more I can get 100 ah. Honestly, it's not the extra $150 for a battery & inverter to run the frig, it's the weight of the second battery (lithiums are out of the question!!!) I think 2 batteries mounted on the tongue is a ton of weight for a little trailer like this, and mounting them at the rear presents it's own set of problems. Hack, once I get into it, he may end up with an insulated aluminum can with a mattress, a couple of battery (AAA)operated lights and fan. He doesn't know this is happening, so he gets what he gets.