Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Just received my trailer!!! Very excited. Trailer is 7x20 from Trailer Showroom. (Forest River / Continental Cargo)
Options: 6" extra height, Narrow track 5k straight axles. 16" floors, bogie wheels, 5k front jack,
medium duty ramp door, 2 pairs of 5k scissor jacks (one pair left off, needs to be added. I had them shift the door left.

Build goals: Hope to be able to live full time. KISS principle. Stealth mode, no holes in roof.

Nice trailer! Are you putting in an AC? Just curious how you're going to accomplish not putting holes in the roof.

Looking forward to seeing your progress!

looking forward to your build, i'm a big fan of keeping it simple.....

We usually use our 8.6' x 18' cargo trailer about 7 to 8 months on each trip. Windows for us was "must have". With a 2 ft utility room in the back, you can have an a/c in the back wall and put a window and and exhaust fan in the back door. That way you have air flow when sleeping and you have an a/c that is not visible from the outside. Check out our build "ris 8.5x 18 new trailer build 11/1/17". Think a lot about what you want before you start building. Have fun.
Richard

That looks like a great platform for a conversion!

One possible option to remain stealthy but still have windows, assuming you don't plan to carry vehicles and your layout allows for such, is to build an wall inside of your rear doors/ramp. You could fit a traditional house window in that wall and door with window or storm door. During the day you could open the ramp (for a patio) or doors, and have light and air.

this is one of the ideas i may go with

onehoser, Howdy;

Just don't forget to route a drain line from the A/C's drain to outside.

hank

Back in action, removed most of the wall panels.

Disappointed to see alot of random screws, boards, staples, sticking up.
I think I'll cut pieces to fit, use spray foam where I can't.

The wall frame is the U shaped connections with edges, so I have to squeeze in the foam boards in between.
I'm wondering if it makes sense to spray anything in the central tube. Limited value since the whole U is metal but maybe stop some air movement?
------------------------WALL-------------------
FOAMFOAM | | FOAMFOAMFOAM | | FOAMFOAM
---- ---- ---- ----

Main questions: What do to do with that gap?
What to do with all the wires? Preserve access? Not looking to rewire?
Planning on doing a 2nd layer of insulation, running 2x4 horizontal on walls, lengthwise roof.
Not quite sure about the floor. Wondering if I can raise it on 2x4s or easier to throw on top of current floor and add another floor.
One is easier and saves time, but costs more - material/weight and loss of inches.

Here is a picture from the front:

Put the wire's in some plastic conduit and tape them to the nearest support.
On my taillights wires I got rid of the scotch lock connectors and replaced em with butt connectors.

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Thanks, everyone. Started insulating walls with 1" pink. Very, very annoying to squeeze them
in between the brackets. Note to self - make sure next trailer is all tube all over.
There are also annoying screws penetrating from the outside that I have to work around,
primarily at the top and bottom. I also have to break the pieces in half to get them in.
I think this is better than cutting narrower pieces which will need more foam.
Finally found a relatively efficient way to cut - using the big L tool, using it as a guide.
Cutting a few feet with razor and repeat with thin putty knife (need to sharpen it)
then slide down a few feet and repeat. Using a piece of scrap as a knee support.
Later I will go back and insert foam & apply tape.

Just about done with spraying all the gaps and edges on the walls with "Great Stuff" foam in a can.
I've used about 15 cans so far. If I were doing it over I think I would try this stuff: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DAP-DRAFTSTOP- ... /999986126
Once I saw down the foam pieces that are sticking up, the walls are ready for the next layer.
I want to put 1" on the ceiling next, but I haven't figured out how to remove the 2 LED lights.
[img][/img]

Removed the LED light. In better light (no pun intended) after the top pops off they just unscrew.
Very easy. Now for the ceiling:

Finished the roof panels and worked on the ramp door.
I was able to slide in 4 long panels all the way, but didn't remove the large bolts to access the rest.
They fit very tightly (1.5" thick), I hope that won't create an issue.
I'm thinking of another layer on top. I recall seeing a build here with with chains to support the ramp as a deck.
Anyone recall which one?

After several very wet weekends, back to it.
Put pieces of insulation in the corner where wall and ceiling meet. Covered the trailer wires with flex tubing.