Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

DOH! My trailer sees to be going thru 'puberty' today. I had a "Homer" moment and put a screw thru the wall and almost put two more thru the wall. It looks like a pimple starting, then progressing to being poppable and then the explosion!


Now for my question...... Seeing as I am not familiar with repairing such holes (almost holes), what would be the best course of action to repair? I thought about just drilling the top two and putting a screw in from outside with sealant but the third hole (explosion) the metal is sticking out a bit and doesn't look like a screw could get a good seal on that hole. How do I smooth that metal down without making a mess of the .040 siding?

The REASON this occurred was that I was trying to do some "in case I decide to add access door" backing inside the wall while installing the wall insulation. I had been putting a second layer of insulation on the wall perpendicular to the wall framing and adding firring stril on the wall to add the wall panels to. After 100+ screws being installed the same way, my "Homer" kicked in and was adding the firring strip without the 1/2" insulation. Since the firring strip would overlap the studs, i had custom cut them to just fit over one side of stud and be flush on other. But in not thinking, drilled the holes and put the screws in ALL the way and what happened??? Trailer now has a case of acne, ha!

I am trying to keep the trailer as stealth as possible and thinking the access door would take some of that away from the stealth. The intent of the access door potentially would be for inside propane storage as my tongue is not long enough to accomodate because of v-nose (Neo NAMR trailer). May end up having to put one in just to fix this "Homer" moment.

Thanks,
Harry (aka Homer today)

Okay...since no one replied, here's my two cents worth. I would change the "uh-oh" look to make it look like it came from the factory that way.

The holes/dings look like there approximately equal spaced and approximately the same distance from the hinge. I would drill out the hole completely and use fender washers (stainless or aluminum), screws/bolts, and nuts to make it look like something was mounted on the interior or your trailer. If the holes are not the same distance from the hinges, you may even consider drilling a second hole if both would be covered by the fender washer. Use a good sealant - OSI Quad or some other polyurethane (not silicone) - and bolt things together.

Carefully and slowly flatten the rupture with the smallest peining hammer that you own (many, many itty bitty taps, not a few hard hits). Only hit the high spots. You need to "shrink" the metal that has been stretched, rather than stretching the low spots more.

Unless you have access to the back side of the aluminum, the "almost holes" are best repaired by drilling a hole in the center and doing the same as above. Trying to flatten them without a relief cut (or hole) will just make the area oil-can - perhaps the whole panel.

Short of re-skinning... Welding the holes would probably be the best repair, but that doesn't seem viable. It could also result in shrinkage issues and would require refinishing the whole panel.
I think I would look into finding a suitable type of Confirmat screw ("furniture screw" - the ones with the ultra low profile, flat heads) and seal with a through-bolt, as suggested above.

It'll never be perfect, unless reskinned. But having a screw or bolt there would "explain" any waviness in the skin.

[quote="foxontherun"]

SNIP

Now for my question...... Seeing as I am not familiar with repairing such holes (almost holes), what would be the best course of action to repair? I thought about just drilling the top two and putting a screw in from outside with sealant but the third hole (explosion) the metal is sticking out a bit and doesn't look like a screw could get a good seal on that hole. How do I smooth that metal down without making a mess of the .040 siding?

SNIP

Not sure what you would ultimately be happiest with but I think I would go with drilling right through and maybe using a hockey helmet screw e.g. https://images.app.goo.gl/rcZh93zkbUW3Lfyx6 with caulking/sealant to make it less visible.

Good luck with it,
Kevin

Looks like a very useful place for a bottle opener, Hold down anchor in the corner, cabnet, fuse panel, barbecue, shot gun, perhaps just a sticker, walk away and ponder what is going there and drill through and hang something over it.
Thumb through a catalog, I am sure you can find something.
It won't be the same unless you replace it.
It's just wall space & don't forget to sign it!

I am pretty darn good at Moment's, and will keep my eye out for one

Might even try a pop rivet and a couple washers. But I agree with Twisted. It's only a problem if you let it be a problem. Think of it as an opportunity. Think of all the things you CAN do with it. Plus you get the chance showcase your talents.
Godspeed Foxontherun.

McDave

Oh, yeah. I've had my share of "DOH!s
I was screwing a seat down to a boat deck once and suddenly realized I was working in a spot where the space between the deck and hull bottom was really small...
I was afraid to look.
One of six screw tips put enough pressure on the fiberglass to knock a small chip out of the gel coat. I guess it could have been much worse and way more embarrassing.

My shiny, white cargo trailer was brand new when I started building a couple of years ago. (Yep. It's taking me that long.) Just like with a new car or truck, I was terrified of getting that first scratch. It happened early on with the steel foot on my jigsaw. I got in a rush and didn't lay down enough masking tape before cutting an AC opening in the sheet metal. Since then, it's gained a few other little dings from clamping things, and just bumping around with stuff. It's gotten really grimy, sitting under my shed for this long. So now nothing really shows that much.
Once I clean it up, I may decide to hide them somehow... Or not worry about it.
I'll be dragging it through the woods eventually, anyhow.

Right there with you on the two years. My trailer turns two this week. Had some leaks to track down; would think I had them fixed and start putting plywood back up on the walls, go on a trip and find another leak or still leaking in same place. "Finally", I think I have those fixed so I have taken the plywood down and have added another inch of insulation in the walls....that's when my "Homer" moment occurred .

Today, I started planning my first cuts in the sidewall for the water and electricity and if I can pick up an AC one for that as well. I like how you did your AC; would do mine same way but I have 16" OC walls and I cannot find those kind of vents in that width and I DO NOT want to cut studs. Don't want any more Homer moments, ha! I did find a storm proof louvered vent that I can order to size for about $80. It's made for houses but they said it would work when I contacted them.

https://www.hvacquick.com/products.php/ ... vers#price

I really have enjoyed following your build, you are creative and quite the craftsman. I agree with comments on when it's new being afraid of all the bumps and scratches.; just like a vehicle. Plan to give the trailer a bath next week; crossing fingers on not finding anymore leaks.

Harry

That first cut is the hardest.
My final layout evolved and was determined by the studs and where the seams in the skin are. It was stressful, cutting that first hole and the one stud.
It's funny how a new truck doesn't feel like it's really yours until after that first scratch. You don't want it to happen, but once it does, you stop worrying about it and become partners.
Both showing wear and tear from having fun and getting the job done. The same probably goes for a camper.

Thanks for the compliments and enjoy your build.