Neo NAMR 7 x 16 V-Nose Conversion

[foxontherun]

Good evening everyone,
Recently purchased some PVC nitro coin flooring for my ramp not thinking about how much it might weigh. Fedex label says the roll is 39 lbs for 7.5' x 6' roll.
https://www.rubberflooringinc.com/garag ... rolls.html

I am curious if this much weight added to the door will affect the spring that raises/lowers the ramp door. Has anyone who has put the rubber floor on their ramp door needed to adjust their spring to account for the added weight? I have a back wall inside my trailer and hope that i have left enough room to make adjustments on the spring without having to take down the wall. I did build the wall with the ability to remove it if needed; sure hope I don't have to.



Any tips on installation of the flooring would be appreciated. The ramp is only used as a porch; no motorcycles or anything to go up/down. Am considering double sided tape around the edges with 3/4" aluminum angle for trim around edges. Supposed to be able to let this flooring free-float.

Thanks!
Harry

[Grummy]

39 Pounds.... I mounted my spare on the back door. I never weighed it but perhaps a 15" tire on a steel wheel is at least 39 pounds.

Even though it is down as low as I could get, making it the closest to the pivot point when the door is horizontal (meaning the weight is not distributed out to the end as your flooring will do), Yes, I did have to adjust the spring because of it. And, yes, it was not only a sucky job to get it right, I did also get slightly injured, which can happen all too easily with any garage door spring.

IF YOUR NOT FULLY AWARE OF HOW NASTY AN ADJUSTMENT CAN GET, TAKE IT TO A PRO !

I seldom say such things. I personally have a pretty good grip on all things mechanical and have made adjustments to garage doors over the years. I even converted the swing doors to a ramp door on my Step van project. Understand right now that those ramp doors are very heavy, even when they are aluminum framed ones like mine. Make sure you do something to make sure that door can not fall down and smash whatever might be under it !

I did it with the door UP because there would be the least tension on the spring. I had to use vice grips to keep the shaft itself from turning at all because it had the tendency to unroll the cable from the very specific path the cables are supposed to be on as it wraps the pulleys.

Because I have a wall of sorts 10" in from the door, it was a bit more dangerous perhaps as I could not use a very long tool in the holes. If I had a helper, I may have opted to pull the door open perhaps a foot, block and loosen the spring capture, then wind the cable shaft back up to pull the door shut with pipe wrench or multiple Vice Grips.... Test and repeat.

I can't tell you how to do yours, but please.. BE CAREFUL !

As an aside, I sanded and stained my OE doors wood, the coated it with Varthane. Incredibly tough stuff. But, my next trick is to put on a photography backdrop of old brick. When the door is up, from the inside it will look like a brick wall. Good luck !

[foxontherun]

Thanks for the reply Grummy; I should have included in my post that I would be leaving the spring work to professionals if I needed the spring adjustment. I am anticipating it needing it but hoping it will not need it.

Harry

[foxontherun]

Good evening all,
On my way home from a recent trip I hit something/ran over something that smashed one of my rear scissor jacks; so I am "getting the privilege" of having to replace it, ha! I asked the factory what model/brand the jacks were in hopes that I could just remove the old and pop in the new using the existing bracket. As Murphy's law would have it, this will not be the case even though I purchased the same brand/model jack. So.....

Need some help advice on how to properly do this. I know nothing about welding even though I have learned on this forum to make sure whomever works on my trailer needs to be good at welding aluminum (my trailer is all aluminum framing). My thoughts are to cut out the old bracket brace (marked in yellow) and replace with a thick piece of metal across the areas marked in green in this picture:
gallery/image.php?album_id=4863&image_id=172773

The reason for taking out the old brace is that it has 1/2" holes drilled thru it and of course Murphy has decided they are not going to line up with the new bracket holes. It looks like the holes circled in blue will not line up correctly with existing 1/2" holes. The holes in orange would go into the trailer frame if I needed extra bolts in the jack. The directions says to use 3/8" stainless steel self tapping screws. The original jack had 1/2" bolts that went all the way thru the part I want to cut out with nylon lock-nuts on the end of the 1/2"bolt.
gallery/image.php?album_id=4863&image_id=172772

I am not sure whether my idea is a good one or not but would like input on the best way to proceed with installing the new jack. I will have someone that knows what they are doing to do the cutting out/welding stuff.
Thanks!
Harry