Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Grummy wrote: Boy it adds up !

I keep a similar spread sheet for recording travel distances to where and when which helps remind me when wheel bearing and brake maintenance really should be done.

Looking forward to what you pick for a layout.

I Like the Spreadsheet Idea, But I past the scales for my light weight the other day

Polyisco insulation has the highest R value at HD, assuming you'll insulate after painting.
Bruce

With the walls out, don't forget to do the water drench test, spraying water intentionally at every seam from every angle possible. Easier to address now than later !

>>>>Will do the sides before we pull the bottom 3/4" ply.....

If you are going to insulate the floor, it is easier from the top when the floor is out if you ask me. You can get better measurements because your not crawling around underneath. I cut mine to be snug, laid a bead of adhesive on the inside edge of the frame and floor joists, pressed the PolyIso down and flush with the top of the joists. Right before I dropped the flooring section back in place, a dropped few dabs of adhesive here and there on top the PolyIso to get it to stick to the underside of the flooring.

I put the silver side down under the floor, and did still need to caulk all the way around the lower edge, but at least I only had to be laying under there for have the time.

Grummy, I'm going back and forth on whether to insulate the bottom or not. I read this posting that says a waste of time, and another that says it helps. We are not winter campers per say. Though the heat off the asphalt pads we park on sometimes can get awfully hot.
To insulate the bottom, would be better when the plywood is out of the trailer for sure.
I know the crunch finding building material maybe hitting everyone, but damn, it's really hitting hard around where we live.
No baltic birch plywood available, cabinet shops where I use to get it, have none. Lauan ply is not available. Even the foam insulation is a hit and miss.
One place yesterday had 87 sheets of 1" foam, went to another site to check prices, they didn't have any. Went back to place the order at the other place. 87 sheets were unavailable.
I may have to start collecting boxes from liqueur stores and using cardboard to insulate this trailer.

Floor Insulation is easy enough to add after build. It just cuts and get glued in using construction adhesive.

I added it as it does help in hot and cold situations. It was worth it for me.

You can always try without and if you think you need it later to help keep cooler or etc., it is easy enough to add after.

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flboy,
how much did you add under yours?
If I'm going to add it, I better do it while the ply is out. Too damn old to be crawling under afterwards
Could measure it all off, while the plywood is standing against the inside of the trailer. Paint the plywood outside on the saw horses, then cut and glue the foam on before reinstalling the plywood. That'll work.
I'll be coating the bottom of the ply with a latex house primer, have a gal, might as well use it. Hopefully pl premium will stick the foam board to the paint.

I bought the 2" Styrofoam type with foil backing. The foil backing is facing downward.

I got the 2" because, 1) there is plenty of room for it and 2) I find the floor insulation makes a big difference, and 3) the incremental cost for 2" was not much.

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flboy wrote:I bought the 2" Styrofoam type with foil backing. The foil backing is facing downward.

I got the 2" because, 1) there is plenty of room for it and 2) I find the floor insulation makes a big difference, and 3) the incremental cost for 2" was not much.

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That makes since flboy, just ordered the 1 inch for the sides, roof and the foil tape. 2" wasn't available, will have to check somewhere else for that. Have a friend with a lift, can always do the floor later.

Well the big Orange box company strikes again. I put in a order today for 9 sheets of what foam board they had available.
Their online inventory showed they had 73 sheets in store. Just got a cancel notice email. They cancelled the order for lack of stock. I guess someone sold it all and forgot to update the inventory

Just a few quick pictures, I am finding out what everyone says about checking everything even on a new trailer.



Need to caulk here and there for sure..

I will solder and heat shrink all the wire connections

That's lots of "ventilation" there.... But not uncommon to see with the interior walls out. It's just crucial to do what you did, and that is strip them and check it out.

I can't imagine trying to build anything these days. You'll get that first sigh of relief in when you get all your holes addressed, insulation in and walls back up.

Regards to do or not to do the floor, I saw some comments about how "easy" it is to do it later. Depends on what "easy" means to the writer. Pretty much all things were easy for me when I was 50, now over 60, NOTHING is easy.

My last conversion was a truck without an insulated floor, and it was very cold for the fall camping we enjoy. It also makes for a quieter box to sleep in late.

i plan on insulating the underside of my 6x12 once i get the wiring etc sorted out underneath, so i installed interlocking workout mat on the floor, makes a huge difference, nice on the bare feet, adds some sound deadening and insulation value too