Thoughts on mounting mini-split on v-nose?

[pikanova]

Need some advice about my cargo trailer conversion camper. I have a 7 x 16 V-nose trailer and plan to add a 9000 BTU mini split system in the next few weeks. I want to mount the outside condenser unit to the tongue. I do not know how to weld, so I was thinking of creating a small "deck" on the tongue with treated 2 x 6 lumber in order to mount the condenser to it. I already have plenty of treated 2 x 6s and 2 x 8s in my shop, so being able to use those materials would potentially save me some money over trying to find a welder to fabricate a metal structure for it.

The condenser unit weighs about 45 pounds. It is about 24 inches tall, 30 inches wide, and 13 inches deep. I would like to have the upper surface of the "deck" elevated about 20 inches above the tongue so that the condenser does not impede my use of the hand-operated tongue jack. I would fasten the 2 x 6s to the tongue using Teks #12 x 2.75" wood to metal screws (2 screws on the left side of each 2 x 6 and 2 more screws on the other side of each 2 x 6. I would connect the vertical 2 x 6 to the bottom 2 x 6 with structural screws and brackets, then make an "upper deck" consisting of 2 x 8s, fastened to the vertical pieces with brackets and structural screws.

We tend to camp in state and national parks, and 99 % of our travel is on paved roads. The occasional gravel road, but no offroading, so I think this would be robust enough for what I need it to do.

I was thinking of a design like this (not to scale, I know, but hopefully you get the idea).

PS - I already purchased some brackets to mount it to one side of the "V", but I worry about the integrity of those brackets because I can only secure them with 2 screws: one in each steel wall post and wanted to consider something a little sturdier.

Thoughts?


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[featherliteCT1]

You said

"

I was thinking of a design like this (not to scale, I know, but hopefully you get the idea)."

There is nothing attached to your post.

EDIT: Ok, I see it now.

[Grummy]

Well, here a some of my thoughts. I would not use treated lumber connected to the frame with plain screws. There are a few issues here.

First, if you have an aluminum tongue, treated wood will eat it for lunch in short order. In fact, I wouldn't use it anywhere on a cargo trailer. It too just gets rotten and soggy. Come to think of it, most of it is soggy (and heavy) when you buy it! If you have to use something, use the plastic deck boards. You do not need much, so it shouldn't break the bank.

Second, drilling any holes into your tongue could compromise it, more so if it is Aluminum. You do not want ANY cracks to start on a tongue, steel or aluminum. Now, I'm not concerned about drilling a single 1/8" hole for a ground wire or such, but any "string" of holes in a line is asking for trouble in a world where manufactures are already making things as thin as they can get away with.

What you can do is get some steel angle or Pipe hanger strut (https://www.nationalpipehanger.com/StrutSubmittals.php). CLAMP that to the frame with properly sized Square U-bolts. Build your platform on top of that. Actually, there is no need to build a platform if you just make the stand hold the condensor unit.

Go look at boat trailers and you will see that most of the bunks use U-bolts to attach stuff to the frame. You can get strut at your local hardware spot, and its easy enough to cross brace it for rigidity. I do not see much rigidity in your drawing, well, as drawn anyhow. It would need cross bracing or it will wobble itself off.

Now get at it !

[Shadow Catcher]

I had to reinforce the tongue on our when another tear by the same maker had a catastrophic failure, he was going slow that it was repaired. I also had to have the axle moved forward, too much weight on the tongue.