removing check valves. whos susseful?

[starleen2]

I have bought a check valve removal tool on ebay and have troubles with the check valve on my 228E I have tried to remove the check valves on 2 parts fonts that are not being used.

I have had no sussese and have ended up in just stripping the slots in the check valves. they are rusted in good.

anyone acutally get a check valve out with out giving up and just swaping fonts?

slow

Done it several times - And without the tool! - I have A big slotted screwdriver that I ground the end down to match the slot. Sometimes the valve is stuck in there because of age, varnish, and sealer. Sometimes a few good raps on the valve will get it loose from the threads - a few good blows from a hammer on the end of the screwdriver does it for me ( but not gorilla blows - nor gentle taps = something in between). I've also used a gentle warming with a torch to help it out as well. Be care though with this method - the bottom of the cylinder is soldered on! - sure would hate to have it v fall of due to excessive heat.

This brings me to a very good point - if the check valve is OK - then don't mess with it! - same thing goes for valve needle and tip clear graphite packing - if it is doing a it's job - then leave it alone.

[starleen2]

I have bought a check valve removal tool on ebay and have troubles with the check valve on my 228E I have tried to remove the check valves on 2 parts fonts that are not being used.

I have had no sussese and have ended up in just stripping the slots in the check valves. they are rusted in good.

anyone acutally get a check valve out with out giving up and just swaping fonts?

slow

Done it several times - And without the tool! - I have A big slotted screwdriver that I ground the end down to match the slot. Sometimes the valve is stuck in there because of age, varnish, and sealer. Sometimes a few good raps on the valve will get it loose from the threads - a few good blows from a hammer on the end of the screwdriver does it for me ( but not gorilla blows - nor gentle taps = something in between). I've also used a gentle warming with a torch to help it out as well. Be careful though with this method - the bottom of the cylinder is soldered on! - sure would hate to have it fall off due to excessive heat.

This brings me to a very good point - if the check valve is OK - then don't mess with it! - same thing goes for valve needle and tip clear graphite packing - if it is doing a it's job - then leave it alone.

[Loader]

I've used a check value tool with great success. I really make sure it is fully seated and the holding rod (not sure what they really call it) is screwed in well and the wing nut is good and snug.

I would suppose in addition to what PreacherMan said, perhaps a little breakfree, PB, or other chemical assistance might help.

I have replaced three, only one appears to be salvageable. On the three lanterns I have redone (I know, great level of experience, right!) I have replaced the Check Valve and generator

[Mark72]

I have found that clamping the tool in a vice and using the font for turning the valve out works well. I have also filled the font and pump bore with carb cleaner and capping the pump bore to keep the cleaner from evaporating is good also. Just lay it down for a couple of days and let it soak.

Mark

[starleen2]

I've used a check value tool with great success. I really make sure it is fully seated and the holding rod (not sure what they really call it) is screwed in well and the wing nut is good and snug.

I would suppose in addition to what PreacherMan said, perhaps a little breakfree, PB, or other chemical assistance might help.

I have replaced three, only one appears to be salvageable. On the three lanterns I have redone (I know, great level of experience, right!) I have replaced the Check Valve and generator

Usually what happens on a check valve is that the little sheds of leather on the pump get into the valve clogging the the ball in the chamber - if you can get the check valve out - usually a small wire can pick it out. Also sometimes moisture creates a little rust on the ball - a good soak in WD-40 clears it off - I've had only one truly bad valve - the ball was totally eaten by rust and pitted that i didn't feel like it was worth the effort. If you can get it to rattle when you shake em' - then they are good to go

[Loader]

I've used a check value tool with great success. I really make sure it is fully seated and the holding rod (not sure what they really call it) is screwed in well and the wing nut is good and snug.

I would suppose in addition to what PreacherMan said, perhaps a little breakfree, PB, or other chemical assistance might help.

I have replaced three, only one appears to be salvageable. On the three lanterns I have redone (I know, great level of experience, right!) I have replaced the Check Valve and generator

Usually what happens on a check valve is that the little sheds of leather on the pump get into the valve clogging the the ball in the chamber - if you can get the check valve out - usually a small wire can pick it out. Also sometimes moisture creates a little rust on the ball - a good soak in WD-40 clears it off - I've had only one truly bad valve - the ball was totally eaten by rust and pitted that i didn't feel like it was worth the effort. If you can get it to rattle when you shake em' - then they are good to go

Thanks Scott.....I'll be looking closer at them.

[doug hodder]

For those that are totally trashed...I welded a #4 EZ out to a 1/2" bolt. It's never failed to remove one. They are never reusable at that point though. Doug

[campmaster-k]

Slow - the tool I bought on ebay is awesome. It locks in the valve and cannot strip out or cam out. I think the one you got is different.

[eamarquardt]

Slow - the tool I bought on ebay is awesome. It locks in the valve and cannot strip out or cam out. I think the one you got is different.

Doug Hodder and I have tools similar to Campmasterk's. Doug broke the ears right off the tool trying to remove a valve. I'm going to mill new ears back on that tool. I nearly sheared the brass ears off a valve using my (identical) tool. The valve I removed was surprisingly difficult to get out.

Our current tools are made from drill rod which might be a bit too brittle so I got some 4130 steel bar stock, will make a couple of tools out if it, and see how it holds up. I'm also going to eliminate the sharp edges at the base of the ears (which should get rid of the concentrated lines of stress) on the tools and make the tool a bit bigger in diameter so the part of the ear that engages the check valve is supported by additional material that isn't actually in contact with the check valve.

Penetrating oil might help but it may be that the valve being seated in it's socket might prevent the oil from reaching the threads. I think you might run up a valve that is not removable even with an easy out and given that the thread size and pitch of the seat is unusual, I don't think you can drill it out and chase the threads with a tap.

I think one of the "lock in tools" will give you your best bet and if that doesn't work an easy out. I'm sure that there are valves out there that will successfully resist all efforts.

Just my thoughts.

Cheers,

Gus

[Woodbutcher]

Gus, are you making these tools for sale? If so I would be interested.

Steve

[eamarquardt]

Gus, are you making these tools for sale? If so I would be interested.

Steve

There are three parts to the tool. Two rods with different (and non standard) threads on one end) and the actual driver itself. My machines are "manual" and threading is a bit slow and tedious. Right now I'm just going to make a couple of the actual drivers and reuse the threaded lock down rods. There is a link on one of the threads to the EBay tool but I can't find the link or the tool on EBay right now. Perhaps someone will post it if the tool is still on EBay. I'll dig through my records and I'm sure I have the info on where I bought mine (an email address) and will pm it to you when I find it.

Cheers,

Gus

[Wolffarmer]

Instead of trying to heat the check valve with a torch I would heat a rod, about 3/8 or 1/2 inch red hot and then hold it against the valve for a moment or 2, or 3. Let it cool 15-30 minutes then try it.

Slow, I might be going through your neck of the woods tomorrow, not sure. We are heading back home now from our adventure and taking the long way. Not sure just what our route will be. I am in Billings right now.

Randy

[Lazybones]

Don't use a torch!!
You can get it too hot and melt the solder holding the pump tube in. solder melts at a low temp. So; Be careful if you feel the need to use a torch.

[Wolffarmer]

Hey Slow

I am home now. WE came down through Wyoming. Boss man wants to see Wyoming, we see Wyoming. I better not complain I am getting paid to see Wyoming.



We came down through Graybull, Worland. ( he wanted to drive by the sugar factory, it is a farmer thing ). Thermapoly, ane we took the sort cut to highway 26 before Riverton. Right by Pavilion. I kept an ey out for your trailer but I didn't see it. Did see a 1/2 pivot of corn with about 10 head of deer in it. They looked real happy. The road though Jackson hole, Holbart juction and Alpine wasn't to bad really. Some broken ice cover but only a very few spots it was completely covered with ice. Jackson is Jackson, can't do anything about that mess. Was fun pulling a trailer with sugar beet harvester parts through it. We had a new pickup with AWD so it was good to go.

Randy

[Wolffarmer]

The road from Dubois to Jackson was pretty good. Only a bit of packed snow on the west side of the mountains but it had been sanded. I haven't been to that Pocatello show in decades. Use to go to it every year when I farmed

Randy