I have a Turd and a 200A! And an Update - May 9, 2010

Lanterns, stoves, etc... anything old!

I have a Turd and a 200A! And an Update - May 9, 2010

Postby Kixwy2 » Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:43 pm

Check this out! $5 for the pair at the Army surplus estate sale!

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They both need glass and the "turd" needs a gas cap, which I found at the Coleman website. The glass for the 275 seems to be a bit more elusive, but my question is more on care before I add gas and fire them up. All the parts and gas flues seem clean and rust free, and the gaskets seem ok, but what should I do to avoid an accident?
Last edited by Kixwy2 on Sun May 09, 2010 10:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby doug hodder » Fri Mar 26, 2010 10:59 pm

Don't flood it with fuel before you light it up or over pressure it with too many pumps. Once you get used to them, you can hear when the fuel gets picked up. Follow the instructions, and have an ignition source at the mantle so when the fuel hits it, it lights right up. If you don't, it can dump raw fuel into it and cause a flare up. If that happens, DON'T FLIP OUT.....just shut down the valve and maybe the tip cleaner. That will cut off the fuel. After it either burns off or you blow it out, let it ventilate prior to relighting. I pre try them prior to lighting, and if it's dumping wet raw fuel anywhere inside the globe, I re-tighten everything before I light. Doug
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Postby High Desert » Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:04 pm

Great finds! You may like to looks here for globes;
http://www.oldcolemanparts.com/
lots of good diagrams too.

Let us know how it goes!
Shaun

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Postby Kixwy2 » Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:16 pm

Wow, just flipped over the 200A and I think it's from 1955. :shock: Definitely not in mint condition though - the paint on the top has some bald spots, but it's charming, to say the least. I'm thinking about giving it to a collector friend of mine - he loves this stuff. I'd love to get it working for him though.
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Postby doug hodder » Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:37 pm

Look on the bottom...should have the month and year stamped into it. Doug
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Postby Kixwy2 » Sat Mar 27, 2010 1:48 pm

So I'm wondering if it's ok to try to light the stove without the glass? I will try to pick up some white gas today and I'd love to try to get the lanterns to work - or at least see what's wrong with them.

Also, the hood on the 200A has some serious chips and dings. If I decided to restore it, what kind of paint or coating should I be looking for?

@Doug: I flipped over the 200, and the only stamping on it says 55. Nothing else - however, on the side it does have the imprinted Coleman sunburst logo that says "Sunshine of the Night" and the Coleman decal on the opposite side. The 275 is a 1979 model. That one cleaned up spectacularly. I'm more worried about the 200.
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Postby starleen2 » Sat Mar 27, 2010 4:21 pm

Kixwy2 wrote:So I'm wondering if it's ok to try to light the stove without the glass? I will try to pick up some white gas today and I'd love to try to get the lanterns to work - or at least see what's wrong with them..

yep you can run em' without the glass, but a gust of wind might blow out the burner. I test all the time with out the globe - so I won't accidentally drop it and break a good globe. BTW - get the tie on mantles - they seem to last a bit longer than the clip on.

Kixwy2 wrote:Also, the hood on the 200A has some serious chips and dings. If I decided to restore it, what kind of paint or coating should I be looking for?.
They are originally porcelain fired. The chips are usually due from the metal cooling at a different rate that the porcelain. You can it reporcelained. Many have tried unsuccessfully to repaint a top with high heat paints - it just doesn't work. Just leave the chips on and let it speak of it's heritage!

Kixwy2 wrote:@Doug: I flipped over the 200, and the only stamping on it says 55. Nothing else - however, on the side it does have the imprinted Coleman sunburst logo that says "Sunshine of the Night" and the Coleman decal on the opposite side. The 275 is a 1979 model. That one cleaned up spectacularly. I'm more worried about the 200.


Yep = you got it 1955[/quote]
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Postby doug hodder » Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:32 pm

Kixwy2 wrote:Doug: I flipped over the 200, and the only stamping on it says 55. Nothing else.


No number over on the far left? 1-12? I don't have a 200A that old, but there are about 6 in the garage I need to build for someone else, maybe one of them is that old. Doug
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Postby Kixwy2 » Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:33 pm

Well, I went to about 5 different camping stores and I must say I'm disappointed in the parts selection! :lol: I did find a glass for each - huge win - and a generator for the turd, and a new pump assembly for the 200a.

Except it still doesn't light. I've cleaned all the parts, checked the filters, blown out all the other parts, cleaned out an ungodly amount of yuck, but I must be doing something wrong.

I pump, close the pump, light a match, open the flue, hold match to mantle.

Fail. All that happens is the mantle smokes and burns.

Hrmph.

They look prettier though!
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Postby doug hodder » Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:42 pm

You may have to do a complete tear down on the 200. Any crud in the tank is most likely going up the fuel pickup and causing problems. Dump out the fuel through a funnel with a piece of paper towel in it. You can see what is floating about in the tank. If there is crud, it may also be in the fuel/air tube, valve etc....It doesn't take too much to plug a fuel pick up. Can you hear it hiss at the mantle? Doug
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Postby Kixwy2 » Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:55 pm

Nope. Not hearing a damn thing on either one. I did pretty much tear apart the whole thing. So I'm wondering now what I missed and where the plug-up is...
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Postby doug hodder » Sat Mar 27, 2010 10:09 pm

Did you tear it down to the point of getting the valve and fuel/air pick up tube out of the tank. Unfortunately, that's probably where the problem is. Start by pumping it up and when you pump it up, is the tank getting pressurized? When you crack the fuel filler cap does it hiss? Remove the generator and see if you have fuel coming out of the top of the fitting when you crack the valve. If you have pressure and no fuel at that joint ...then it's plugged deeper.

Spin the generator tip cleaner...still no fuel? If not, it's probably in the fuel/air pickup. It should come out with some force at that joint and not just be wet with fuel. That means you need to pull that from the tank and take it apart. If there was a lot of rust or crud in the tank, you may need to pour some BB's in the tank with a little carb cleaner or fuel and slosh it around to knock off the loose stuff and flush it. Pull the fuel air pickup apart and clean it as well. If you've done this...then I'm at a loss without seeing it in action. Doug
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Postby High Desert » Sat Mar 27, 2010 11:12 pm

+1 on Doug's advise.
Last edited by High Desert on Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Kixwy2 » Mon Mar 29, 2010 12:02 am

doug hodder wrote:

Spin the generator tip cleaner...still no fuel? If not, it's probably in the fuel/air pickup. It should come out with some force at that joint and not just be wet with fuel. That means you need to pull that from the tank and take it apart. If there was a lot of rust or crud in the tank, you may need to pour some BB's in the tank with a little carb cleaner or fuel and slosh it around to knock off the loose stuff and flush it. Pull the fuel air pickup apart and clean it as well. If you've done this...then I'm at a loss without seeing it in action. Doug


Well, I'm attacking this again. I've got the generator soaking in vinegar, the part are almost torn completely apart... except for the valve attached to the top of the tank. That SOB is rusted shut in there, and that may be my problem. With everything taken off, I should be able to hear the gas burbling up, but I get absolutely nothing. So now I'm thinking something is clogged under the tip cleaner. Bah!

I'm afraid to wrench too hard on the gas tank/ valve connection for fear of breaking it. Any thoughts? I've sprayed some rust WD40 type stuff on it to loosen the crud.
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Postby starleen2 » Mon Mar 29, 2010 8:18 am

It's not rusted in - the valve body is Brass and the tank is steel. Sometimes the compound that coleman used to seal the threads acts like an adhesive. - but do not fear it WILL come loose. I've taken a deep well socket and a long extension to break one loose - just use STEADTY PRESSURE - and an extra set of hands to hold the fount. Apply the torque in a lateral direction to prevent warping the fount or bending the neck. if you have a small propane torch to gently warm the area - it helps a little.
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