1st Build: Pop-up

[NWBeerKat]

HI everybody this is my first message and my first build. Congrats on a really a great website.

Moving onward: I'm wanting to build a nontraditional trailer. My hats off to the TearDrop purists, but it's not for me, yet. I need something I can camp in 4 seasons. I want the aerodynamics, so I'm going with a pop-up design. I thought about the design used on the Trailmanor, but it is really just wasted space and heat. I have decided on a vertical hard sided pop-up. Vertical meaning no slide outs. The upper walls will fit down over the lower walls.

Here are some of the detailed requirements:
Indoor kitchen
-Stove top (Maybe oven)
-Mini Fridge
-Some cabinet space
Indoor shower w/hot water
Indoor toilet (Bucket or Cassette?)
One end will have couch/bed
Other end will have booth table which converts to bed
Insulated (everywhere)
Heater or Shepards Stove
Air-Conditioning?
Off Grid electrical w/Shore power
Will use Propane for some applications
Onboard water supply

Kimberly Kampers has already stole most of my ideas: http://www.kimberleykaravans.com/karavan/overview.php
So I better get started before the rest are gone.

My only questions are:
Should I use an old pop-up frame? How much could I expect to pay?

Should I build the frame? I can weld, its a logistics issue. What kind of axle? Wt? What size steel to use? Tire size?

What type of insulation and walls?

Thanks for the help,
Mike.

[Steve_Cox]

Hi Mike,

Welcome to the forum, and just so you'll know, we expect pictures when you start building.

As far as frame questions, a used pop-up could be good, especially if you can find a free one.

It is a good time to build a frame yourself as steel prices are down quite a bit from a couple of years ago.

Seems torsion axles are the ones of choice for discriminating builders, although it would be offensive to spring/shock builders to say so

[starleen2]

Given the complexity of the pop - up mechanism and this being your first build, I would definatly go with a used pop-up camper "gutted" to your needs. trying to engineer a pop up lifting device that is reliable is quite a challenge, there are some who have done it with cables and pullys

[angib]

Just on a quick guess, you're going to need a body 12-14 feet long by 7 feet wide to fit in all you want, so it had better be a big tandem-axle pop-up that you start with. You also want to add lots of weight (equipment and tanks) so it had better have a fairly high GVWR as well.

Sounds like a big pop-up that's been damaged in some way (rolled over?) would be a good starting point as it's probably a cheap way to get most of the equipment.

Andrew

[Miriam C.]

to the playground. When you go looking for a pop-up frame be sure to check it for level and square. If not you will be compensating all the way.

Pictures are greatly appreciated to keep the bubble oil level.

[mk10108]

http://www.3dogcamping.com/

Has a Canadian distributor. About twice the cost of a homemade tear.

[NWBeerKat]

Well folks I bought a Pop-up. It might be a while before I have it stripped down. It was only $150 and came with a good lift system, propane bottle, battery box, battery? (didn't check), awning, stove, sink, and window unit air-conditioner. The cushions are not that bad, I might be able to use them. Not sure if or how I will use the table top as I can only fit in a twin booth. I would love to beat out this project before summer but realistically I will try to be done by November. My slowest timeline will be May 2010.

I need your advice on a few things...
I was thinking of using sandwich framed walls 1x2 studs maybe baltic birch sheathing on both sides and insulated in between. I was thinking of skinning the outside with some kind of RealTree Advantage Automotive stickers. It would probably cost me alot ($800+) I think the base would have to be fiberglass to do this. I have never fiber glassed before, but I do want to learn. I know the concept, but I do not know the costs associated with it. Option B would be to just clearcoat the sheathing and go for a Woody look. I would save alot of money. Considering I want this primarily for hunting and wood might blend in with the woods better than my red truck it could work. I also want it to look cool.
While trailering down the road it will look like the Rimple with the wheels inset behind the walls. While popped up it will look like a midget with a seam 1/3 up the walls with square corners on the bottom.

I appreciate any suggestions, but bear in mind I need to keep the roof as light as possible so the lift system can handle it. I will probably have to increase the lift system capacity anyway.

Thanks, Mike.

[angib]

I think the base would have to be fiberglass to do this. I have never fiber glassed before, but I do want to learn.

It's worth pointing out that adding fiberglass over wood won't give you the smooth, gloss, coloured finish of moulded fiberglass - it will be somewhat rough and bumpy unless you spend loads of hours sanding and polishing it smooth. And it will need a paint finish afterwards to colour it.

Andrew

[NWBeerKat]

I went to the Kansas City RV show today and talked to a rep at Colaw's RV. He has Filon in 8' wide rolls at $10 a linear foot. $1.25 a square foot is a steal if you ask me. They are a reputable salvage dealer for parts. I think the guy said it includes adhesive.

Here's the link to Colaw's RV http://www.colawrvsalvage.com/
I will also post it on one of the other Filon forums.

[moreforles]

[quote="starleen2" trying to engineer a pop up lifting device that is reliable is quite a challenge, there are some who have done it with cables and pullys[/quote]

Those are fine when they're new... but when cables break or get pinched, or comes off the pulley.... then they're no fun what so ever......

[moreforles]

Option B would be to just clearcoat the sheathing and go for a Woody look. I would save alot of money. Considering I want this primarily for hunting and wood might blend in with the woods better than my red truck it could work. I also want it to look cool.

Thanks, Mike.

instead of the clear coat or in addition to it..... a really sharp camo paint scheme might work well, considering your planned use....

And while I'm not into hunting, and havn't done much since I was a teenager, squirrel and dear hunting, but I noticed hunting seasons was during the wet and cooler season, with that in mind a darker color scheme might be better as far as absorbing some heat from the sun while your out there.....flat or nearly flat black roof (in warmer weather a white tarp could be used to shade and cool it)

I was thinking about someway of leaving some airspace/channels in between interior and exterior roof panel with some power vents to put the hot/warmed air to use...