stand up questions

[Myke]

I have the trailer frame from an old popup. It's 78" wide x 117" long. I have a design drawn in autoCAD. The design is on a pc not hooked up to the internet. Is there a way for me to put the design on a thumb drive, transfer it to my mac and then post it to this site or do I need to temporarily switch internet from mac to pc? Also,how do I upload an autoCAD drawing? Do I need to save it as pdf or something?
Until I figure that out, I tried making it a teardrop, but couldn't get 4 people in it and wife and kids go with me. So I made a standy?, not sure if my lingo is correct. It will have overall height 100", standing room 74". On the back wall a set of 54" x 73" bunks. Front (tongue wall) fridge, sink, furnace and stove from popup. That leaves 32" along back wall for food, dishes, clothes, additional cooler or whetever. There is 27 1/2" between bunks and galley. At night I can put the porta potty along the wall with a curtain for the three ladies. Yes, I am drowning in an estrogen ocean, married with 2 daughters. The axle is 67 1/2" back from the tongue. If anybody has the time to do a rough sketch this up and let me know if weight distribution looks right without moving the axle, I'd be thankful. As soon as I can I'll post the drawing I have. I plan on framing walls with 2x2 lumber, roof with 2x3 or 2x4. Will that be strong enough, I plan on parking this in the Rocky Mountains from March through rifle season so possibly into December. Wind, rain and snow could be an issue. I hope to use the converter/inverter from the popup as well. I don't know any specs on it, but plan on running 4 reading lights, 2 for each bunk and an undetermined light for the kitchen, the furnace fan and probably a twelve volt vent fan. Any ideas on what size inverter, converter I need?
Hopefully somebody here can translate my babbling to a somewhat intelligent level and figure out what I need, so the rest of you can figure out how to advise me.
Thanks
Myke

[doug hodder]

Myke...You won't be needing 2x3 or 2x4 in the ceiling....that's a bit much. You can probably get by with 2x2 at the max and most likely 1x2 would work for a sandwiched roof as well as the walls. I've torn into several old trailers and there isn't much in there and it held up well. Check out any of the new construction on RV's. I also think your old converter would provide what you need if it's in good working condition. Welcome aboard, have fun with your build, get the family involved...they'll love it when it's all said and done. Doug

[Myke]

Doug, I think my problem is I used to build houses with a 2x6 perimeter and 2x4 interior walls, so for me to see people building something they will live in for a week or so and framing it with 1xs seems under kill to me. I was concerned with the weight, so going with 1x2" helps limit the weight. How do you attach the floor to the walls with 1x lumber?

[Nitetimes]

Doug, I think my problem is I used to build houses with a 2x6 perimeter and 2x4 interior walls, so for me to see people building something they will live in for a week or so and framing it with 1xs seems under kill to me. I was concerned with the weight, so going with 1x2" helps limit the weight. How do you attach the floor to the walls with 1x lumber?

Kreg.

[shopfabricator]

Torsion Box. That's the strength. Homes are not built with 1x diagonals cut into the walls at the corners anymore. It is understood that the sheathing will supply the torsional stability.

[Miriam C.]

Glue and screws are your friend! I built mine on a wide frame and cut the roof spars myself. I made them a real 1 inch by 2 inches out of a 2"x8". Not dimensional cuts. They do tend to want to curve when opened up so clamping them back together helps.

I did not have sagging but do wish I had put a slight curve on the top. Water wants to pool if it is level.

A Kregg pocket jig is a wonderful tool for getting these together but nails will do it too.

[doug hodder]

Myke....I build my frame with a 2x wood cleat around the perimeter. For attaching the walls, allow some extra on the exterior side to attach to that wood cleat and keep your sandwiched wall base up higher to rest on the flooring bedded with an adhesive. That way you can attach a screw through the exterior and I also use epoxy adhesives. It hides the frame from view. My previous trailers weren't insulated walls, but the latest one is going to be.

One thing about these little trailers, is that you can do a lot with the adhesives available nowadays. Not everything needs to be a mechanical fastener. I use screws at times to only hold things in place till the epoxy cures then remove them. I pity the fool that tries to take one of mine apart. But nothing ever loosens up on me, and I know the roofs can support my hefty weight. Your interior cabinetry is also going to give a lot of strength. Attached is a pic of my last one. 1x2 roof construction with a trolley top that only had 3/4" supports. I've sat on it while installing the ceiling fan (once skinned). Yes it's only 54" wide not the 78" but I'm sure it'd be fine. Lots of old Scotties were done that wide with the same dimension materials.

The tendency is to overbuild whether it be frames or body construction. It's your build though so build what you are most comfortable with. A quick search on some of the teardowns that people have done on tent trailers or other small trailers might give you an idea of what's in the walls. Good luck on your build and keep us all posted on the progress! Doug

[Myke]

I drew this plan in Sketchup. How do I post it so so you guys can see it and give me advice?
Myke

[Myke]

Here ya go Myke. Doug

[Myke]

Thanks Doug, I was getting there.
I posted dimensions in the first post so hopefully somebody can let me know if the axle looks right for the weight. The dark blue are the bunks, light blue stove, sink and furnace location, orange is food and suitcase storage, green is a porta potty. This will be left long term on an acre mountain property, so I will build a picnic table. I think it will be crowded, but I don't go to the mountains to sit in a camper. The camper is just to sleep in.
Any advice or modification suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
Myke

[Miriam C.]

Something to consider for children is you can run them perpendicular under or over the adults. That way there is no back person and no need for extra venting.

btw---have you looked at the tiny houses on wheels forum?
http://tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=48

[Myke]

Auntie M,
the problem with running the kids bed the other way is it sticks to far out into the walkway. I'm kind of limited, because I have the trailer and don't want to spend all my money modifying the trailer to get a better floor plan. Yes, I have checked out the tiny house on wheels section. This popup is to camp in while I build the tiny house on wheels. I've already drawn the tiny house in autoCAD. That was better, because I was able to get all the dimensions, lay it out and then decide what size trailer I needed. After I get the cabin trailer built, I will give this trailer to my brother to camp in and I will build a weekender for me when I go on trips and only one of my daughters wants to go with me. So if the economy allows, I hope to be in the 3 build club by next fall.
Myke

[Miriam C.]

Auntie M,
the problem with running the kids bed the other way is it sticks to far out into the walkway. I'm kind of limited, because I have the trailer and don't want to spend all my money modifying the trailer to get a better floor plan. Yes, I have checked out the tiny house on wheels section. This popup is to camp in while I build the tiny house on wheels. I've already drawn the tiny house in autoCAD. That was better, because I was able to get all the dimensions, lay it out and then decide what size trailer I needed. After I get the cabin trailer built, I will give this trailer to my brother to camp in and I will build a weekender for me when I go on trips and only one of my daughters wants to go with me. So if the economy allows, I hope to be in the 3 build club by next fall.
Myke

I take it the Kidlets are too tall to go across the existing 54". Keep looking until you get the walls up. You might be surprised what you can come up with.

[Myke]

Dang it Auntie M. You got me to thinking, the oldest will be 16 in March, so I'll be lucky to get her out in the woods very often. The youngest is only 9, so with building the tiny house on wheels this summer, I might be better off building a normal 2 person teardrop. Maybe put a bunk in it in case I need 3 person bedding, but removable for when it's just the wife and I. Back to the drawing board.

[Miriam C.]

Dang it Auntie M. You got me to thinking, the oldest will be 16 in March, so I'll be lucky to get her out in the woods very often. The youngest is only 9, so with building the tiny house on wheels this summer, I might be better off building a normal 2 person teardrop. Maybe put a bunk in it in case I need 3 person bedding, but removable for when it's just the wife and I. Back to the drawing board.

Our goofy grand kids prefer the tent. They are teenagers. You can always make the bed off the floor and room for a 9 year old to "perpendicular" sleep under. Only takes about 18 inches and as they get older you do the side tent thing.

Starleen2 takes their daughter with and has a great set up. Was shorter than I wanted with mine but it was great!
http://www.txstewartfamily.com/

There are lots of builds with bunks that work. Some even drop to become back boards for sitting up.

PS---with a regular td you have extra room for guest at the tiny house.