Introducing... The Road Toad!

Design & Construction of anything that's not a teardrop e.g. Grasshoppers or Sunspots

Introducing... The Road Toad!

Postby R Keller » Fri Apr 16, 2004 2:44 am

Here is my design for the Road Toad (toad=towed, get it?) trailer. The design is more or less finalized at this point. It is based somehat loosely on a Grasshopper and has taken some design features from the Camp-Inn teardrops (among others). It has an a full-height rear hatch and is designed with a fold-out child's sleeping platform across the width of trailer above the foot of the bed. And it will seat 4 when the mattress cushions are folded up to expose the footwell. Main body is 4 feet high by 10 feet long by 5 feet wide.

Image

And here's a recent shot with the sides attached temporarily:
Image

To check out more design specs, design drawings, and construction photos, check out my website at: http://webs.lanset.com/rikeller/Trailer/index_trailer.htm

I have posted photos of the chassis and floor so far on my website. Will post photos of the sides, bulkhead, and galley counter soon.

Rik
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Re: Introducing... The Road Toad!

Postby mikeschn » Fri Apr 16, 2004 4:47 am

Hey Rik,

I like it. I especially like the full height rear hatch and the dropped footwell. My trailer is 10' long also, and I found I had about an extra foot of space I didn't know what to do with, so I made it a closet. What are you doing with your extra foot of space?

Image

Mike...

R Keller wrote:It has an a full-height rear hatch and is designed with a fold-out child's sleeping platform across the width of trailer above the foot of the bed. And it will seat 4 when the mattress cushions are folded up to expose the footwell. Main body is 4 feet high by 10 feet long by 5 feet wide.


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Postby BufordT » Fri Apr 16, 2004 4:53 am

I'm Liking it Rik,

Liking it a lot.

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Postby R Keller » Fri Apr 16, 2004 10:31 am

Thanks for the comments! Luckily, I still like it too.

Extra foot of space?! I wish!

The front wall is 1 13/16". 80" length for sleeping area (I'm 6'2" and need at least that); 13.5" for storage at the foot of the bed (OK maybe that's the extra), then the 1" bulkhead wall. The top of the foot cabinet then folds out another 13.5" over the sleeping area to become a 27"-wide child's bed. 21.25"-countertop depth; 2" for the hatch. And that's the ten feet. I'll post a drawing sometime soon showing the interior layout. One thing I like about the configuration is that the footwell is centered in the 80" sleeping area and the doors are centered too. Then I'll have four 20" cushions. The middle two fold up and then you have seating at both front and rear sides of the footwell.

I had to go with the 10-foot length and the non-teardrop rear to get adequate room for the child's bed while still allowing for upper galley cabinets.

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Postby mikeschn » Fri Apr 16, 2004 10:51 am

Yep, it sounds like you put your extra in the same place I did!!! BTW my cushions were not all the same size. I copied the sized from my pop-up camper, which worked real well. I'll get you the sizes I used, tonight when I get home.

BTW, your door and footwell sounds like it's located very similar to mine! :)

Mike...

R Keller wrote:Thanks for the comments! Luckily, I still like it too.

Extra foot of space?! I wish!

The front wall is 1 13/16". 80" length for sleeping area (I'm 6'2" and need at least that); 13.5" for storage at the foot of the bed (OK maybe that's the extra),

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Slick footwell

Postby Clancy Courtney » Fri Apr 16, 2004 10:54 am

Rik , That's a slick footwell, wish I had put one in mine. I like the scarfing jig you made. Do you have any more photos of it?
Many years ago, before I discovered teardrops, I thought about building a trailer similar to the shape of yours on one of the foldup trailers but never moved forward.
Keep up the good work,
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Postby R Keller » Sun Apr 18, 2004 6:07 pm

Thanks Clancy, but I can't take credit for the footwell. Grant Whipp did that one. I just gave him the dimensions.

I don't have any more photos of the scarfing jig at the moment. I could take some more. What are you interested in seeing? I attached the jig with wood screws and 4 holes that I drilled through the circular saw base plate. I can put the jig on and take it off pretty quickly. It worked pretty well over all. Since my interior seams are at the bulkhead wall, I wasn't too worried about appearance (and probably didn't really need to scarf!).

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Postby R Keller » Sun Apr 18, 2004 9:32 pm

I'm waiting for the asphalt emulsion of the bottom of my floor to dry so I can apply another coat...

So, in the meantime, here is a drawing that should give anyone interested a bit of an idea of the interior layout of the Road Toad.

Few things to notice:
    1. footwell is 30" front to back (and 51" wide) & 7" deep from the top of the floor.
    2. doors (identical on both sides) are 36" wide by 36" tall, centered on footwell
    3. mattress cushions are 20" for each piece = 80" total bed length. middle two become the back rests when configured for sitting
    4. the footwell will have two covers. One will become the interior table and one will become an exterior table
    5. the interior table will mount on a standard RV pedestal in the footwell and will swivel
    6. the exterior table will mount via brackets at the rear curb-side of the trailer (light green)
    7. the childs' bed platform is above the cabinet at the foot of the bed. It folds out to become a 27" wide bed.
    8. the top half of the front storage box is accessable from the inside and the bottom half is accessable from the outside (just like the Camp-Inn)

Image

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Postby BufordT » Mon Apr 19, 2004 5:36 am

Really cool looking tear Rik,

What type of hatch are you going to use.

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Postby mikeschn » Mon Apr 19, 2004 6:12 am

Rik,

My cushions were 59x22 and 59x17. the 22" cushions were on the bottom and the 17" ones became the back rest. I pretty much stole the dimensions of the cushions from the pop-up I have!

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Scarf jig

Postby Clancy Courtney » Mon Apr 19, 2004 9:11 am

Rik , After I posted I went back and looked at your photos more closely and think I got it. I"ll be trying to put one together, I f I have a problem I get back to you. Right now I'm dreaming of a 5'x10' and 10' plywood isn't readily available in Columbia.
Some time ago I believe you posted some info about heat gain and reflectivity of different surfaces do you still have that info ?
Thanks for your response.
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Postby R Keller » Tue Apr 20, 2004 1:30 am

Buford: Thanks for the kind comments. The rear hatch will be similar to a teardrop hatch in every respect, except that it will be angled instead of curved. The hatch will be full height.

Clancy: Here is some info I dug up before on heat gain and reflectivity. Remember, this is applicable to a trailer in the direct sun. If you are shaded by trees or a pop-up canopy, you have a lot less to worry about.

As background, remember that heat is tranferred in three ways: radiation (think sun's rays), convection, and conduction. When we're talking about solar gain on a trailer, radiated heat from the sun that is absorbed by the surface (skin) is then transferred via conduction to lower layers. The cooler the surface stays, the less the heat gain on the system. Insulation will also help keep the interior cooler (or less hot) longer by slowing the rate of heat transfer through the roof/wall.

When looking at how hot any given material gets in the sun, there are two main factors to consider. The first is the reflectivity of the material. The second is how quickly it can radiate heat off of its surface back into the air; this factor is called emissivity. Both reflectivity and emissivity are based on the surface properties of the material.

Speaking about the first point, reflectivity, aluminum (or any metal) will reflect a lot of the solar energy radiating on it. And the shinier the metal, the more it will reflect. But a white surface will also reflect to a large degree, usually more than the metal. Solar reflectance of a white surface can get as high as 0.85, meaning it reflects back 85% of the solar radiation. This is about the same as highly polished aluminum. Mill finish aluminum has a value more like 0.6, depending on the oxidation level. Also, generally, the darker the color of a material, the less reflective it will be. This is why, given the same material, the darker color will get hotter (however, there are exceptions, including some new paints that have ceramic particles embedded and are almost as reflective in darker colors as in lighter.).

So, the higher the reflectivity, the longer a material will take to heat up when exposed to a given amount of solar radiation. But that's only half the story.

The second factor is the emissivity of the material. The higher this number is, the faster the material can radiate heat that is has absorbed back into the atmosphere (different wavelength than the incoming solar radiation). Most materials have an emissivity of around 0.8 to 0.9, meaning they emit 80% to 90% of their heat. Bare metals (including aluminum) are an exception, with low emissivities that range between 0.05 to 0.6 depending on the type of metal, and its surface finish and condition. And the shinier the metal, the lower the emissivity. Highly polished aluminum has an emissivity of about 0.05. Even highly oxidized aluminum's emissivity is only about 0.25. So, even though they're reflective, metal surfaces tend to get hot since they're unable to emit away even the modest amount of solar energy they do absorb (hence "Cat on a Hot Tin Roof" or cat on a hot trailer roof!).

The ideal material, if one wants a surface that doesn't get hot in the sun, would be one that has a high reflectivity and high emissivity.

White paint does the job nicely. This is why bright white elastomeric coatings are increasingly being used for "cool roofs" that significantly reduce heat gain and hence cooling bills for buildings.

As it turns out though, a coating on aluminum, whether it is anodized, or a clear coat sprayed on, can increase the emissivity of the aluminum tremendously. Clear anodized aluminum has an emissivity of 0.76-0.84 (depending on the thickness of anodization). A clear coat would be similar, depending on thickness. Of course, white painted aluminum could have even higher emissivity (and would have a higher reflectivity). Bare mill-finish or polished aluminum, though, is going to get really hot in the direct sun.

So what kind of difference does it make in reality? The Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory did a study on roof materials (http://eetd.lbl.gov/CoolRoofs/) and found the following average temperature gains above ambient temperatures in full sun and no wind (a 40°F gain on a 100°F degree day would equal 140°F surface temperature):
    Bright white smooth materials: 15°F
    Rough white surface: 35°F
    Very light (pastel) colors: 15 to 55°F
    Bare aluminum: 48°F
    Medium gray (reflectance half way between white and black): 52°F
    New, bare galvanized steel: 55°F
    Intense but not very light colors (green, red, blue, etc.): 79 to 83°F
    Black materials: 90°F

So on a day with an air temperature of 90°F, you could expect a clean white trailer roof (Filon, painted aluminum, painted wood, etc.) in the direct sun to reach a surface temperature of 105°F. A non-coated, non-anodized aluminum roof would reach a surface temperature of 138°F, and a black roof would reach a surface temperature of 180°F!

The lower the heat load from the skin, the less your cooling needs are in the trailer and the more effective your insulation will be.

Rik
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Postby BufordT » Thu Apr 29, 2004 2:33 pm

Rik,

How's the road toad coming along. Got anymore pic's? About done?

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Postby R Keller » Tue May 04, 2004 1:49 pm

Patience my grasshopper! All will be revealed soon....

Actually, I've just been too busy working on the trailer to post photos. I'm framing the roof sandwich panels now. Complicated by the front storage box set-up, the sunroof, etc., so a bit slow going. Roof should be complete by the end of this coming weekend. Then I'll post some more photos.

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Postby mikeschn » Tue May 04, 2004 2:50 pm

Then you are making really good progress! I too am looking forward to seeing your updated photos.

Do you work on your trailer every day or just on weekends?

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